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Thread: engine drop out, removal from frame

  1. #1
    apriliaforum Junkie
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    engine drop out, removal from frame

    the process of removing the motor doesnt look to hard what are the tips my only problem would be those factory oil clamps i say there must be a tool for these type ?
    Last edited by amauri; 11-15-2011 at 10:48 AM. Reason: change title

  2. #2
    apriliaforum expert soyrico's Avatar
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    I reuse the stock clamps with this easy to use tool. I picked it up at Home Depot. It works like a charm.
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  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by soyrico View Post
    I reuse the stock clamps with this easy to use tool. I picked it up at Home Depot. It works like a charm.
    Ok that's easy I wonder how that's done shooting down shop now cheers hey does it take much to drop the engine out doesn't look to bad I suppose emptly fluids out

  4. #4
    just another Aprilia fanatic amauri's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pontaic View Post
    hey does it take much to drop the engine out doesn't look to bad I suppose emptly fluids out

    I use a table lift to raise the bike to a height that allows me to stand up straight and cradle the motor on my right arm while sliding out the swingarm pin with my left hand, thus easily dropping the motor out by myself.

    Careful with your back if you are doing this by yourself and bending over with the bike down on the floor. The motor weighs about 75-80 lbs.

    -Disconnect battery, remove plastics, drain fluids, remove exhaust, loosen rear wheel and slip chain over frt sprocket.
    -Remove shifter pedal and disconnect clutch cable from motor end.
    -Unplug water temp, oil press and crank sensors, also alternator wires, plug wires and unscrew starter cable at starter end only.
    -Disconnect coolant hoses from motor end, leave the radiator end connected.
    -Remove the lower radiator thru bolt, loosen the top bolt but leave it in place. No need to remove radiators, just move them forward a bit.
    -Disconnect oil hoses from motor end, no need to remove oil tank
    -Loosen the four screws (5mm Allen) holding the throttle bodies to the cyl heads, do not remove throttle cables nor the injection wires.
    -Zip tie the throttle body up out of the way.
    -Remove the front and lower engine mount bolts, pay attention to the three spacer washers/shim.
    -Use a small bottle jack to support the frame before you remove the swingarm spindle.

    After doing this more times than I can remember, I’ve got it down to 30 minutes without rushing it.
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  5. #5
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    I have found it far faster to remove the exhaust with the subframe. Rather than trying to fight the muffler in/out, just disconnect the battery and take the entire rear section off and it makes the rear exhaust pipe easier as well.

    My .02 cents

    -Tim

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by amauri View Post
    I use a table lift to raise the bike to a height that allows me to stand up straight and cradle the motor on my right arm while sliding out the swingarm pin with my left hand, thus easily dropping the motor out by myself.

    Careful with your back if you are doing this by yourself and bending over with the bike down on the floor. The motor weighs about 75-80 lbs.

    -Disconnect battery, remove plastics, drain fluids, remove exhaust, loosen rear wheel and slip chain over frt sprocket.
    -Remove shifter pedal and disconnect clutch cable from motor end.
    -Unplug water temp, oil press and crank sensors, also alternator wires, plug wires and unscrew starter cable at starter end only.
    -Disconnect coolant hoses from motor end, leave the radiator end connected.
    -Remove the lower radiator thru bolt, loosen the top bolt but leave it in place. No need to remove radiators, just move them forward a bit.
    -Disconnect oil hoses from motor end, no need to remove oil tank
    -Loosen the four screws (5mm Allen) holding the throttle bodies to the cyl heads, do not remove throttle cables nor the injection wires.
    -Zip tie the throttle body up out of the way.
    -Remove the front and lower engine mount bolts, pay attention to the three spacer washers/shim.
    -Use a small bottle jack to support the frame before you remove the swingarm spindle.

    After doing this more times than I can remember, I’ve got it down to 30 minutes without rushing it.
    hi all using the bottle jack once the motor out can this supporting jack be taken out or will put stress on frame?

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by pontaic View Post
    hi all using the bottle jack once the motor out can this supporting jack be taken out or will put stress on frame?
    It is only there till you can put the swingare pivot bolt back in.

    -Tim

  8. #8
    apriliaforum Member Proton's Avatar
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    Can this be made a sticky? This is good info for the long run.

  9. #9
    just another Aprilia fanatic amauri's Avatar
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    Made it a sticky and added a suggestion for how to make a wood shipping crate.

    I’ve seen just about every type of wood crate, plastic boxes, ice chests, cardboard boxes inside cardboard boxes, etc.

    Most arrive safely, but a couple have arrived damage (no fault of the carrier) because they bounced around inside the box.

    Thought I would post up some info on how to make a inexpensive wood crate to safely ship your motor when it’s time for an overhaul.
    This is essentially the same as what the factory uses to ship a new replacement engine assembly from Italy.

    The inside dimensions are 19” wide, 13” deep and 18” tall.
    The outside is a bit bigger depending on the thickness of wood you use.
    I make it about ½” bigger than the motor all around, and use sheets of cardboard to cushion the motor on all sides.

    If you make it much bigger, the motor will bounce around inside.

    3/8" CDX plywood (sides & top)
    1"x6" Doug Fir or pine (bottom)
    2”x2” DF for the inside corners and bottom rails

    Total $20 for materials, enough wood to make two crates.

    Also, keeping it as small and light as possible means cheaper to ship.
    FedEx Ground is about the least expensive.

    Oh, and please don't forget to drain the oil (tranny too).
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  10. #10
    apriliaforum Member J_B's Avatar
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    The right sized eski also works well. I think the one I use is 100L.
    For the Aussies, Ive used Transdirect - very price reasonable.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by soyrico View Post
    I reuse the stock clamps with this easy to use tool. I picked it up at Home Depot. It works like a charm.
    hi all what are the stock hose clamps are call i won,t to order a whole new set for radiator and oil hose has any body have link where i could buy them from?cheers

  12. #12
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    Hey all, new to forum, just purchased a 07 RXV 550 with a new motor. Can someone help me locate the blue anodized oil filter cover in the pic above, I've got to get my bling program started!
    Thanks!

  13. #13
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    Remove the front and lower engine mount bolts, pay attention to the three spacer washers/shim

    I got my engine and frame separate i got no washer/shims can anyone help as i don't know what ones i need i have an 2007 vdb 550 frame with 2007 vdb 450 engine if that helps

  14. #14
    apriliaforum Junkie
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    I spotted only 2 myself as well ...

  15. #15
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    my old sxv dint have any

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