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Thread: How to replace your sprag clutch.

  1. #31
    apriliaforum expert losthaga's Avatar
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    Bruce, I had mine done at Martin's Eurosports in Coopersburg PA 18036. (610)282-9300. My bike had 11303 miles on it when my sprag failed. No warning just wouldn't start one day. They didn't break down the parts price. Receipt reads like this. 1 Starter sprag assy. $597.58 1oil filter $11.33, Diagnoise sprag $17.25, R&R Sprag/Oil $241.50 Parts sub total: $608.91 Labor sub total $258.75 I used all Aprilia OEM parts in mine. I replaced the entire thing, just to be safe! They all seem to fail with time. Start the bike as least time as you can and always keep a STRONG BATTERY in her. I use a dry cell battery now and a Yamaha relay. Trickle charger is a big plus. If the bike don't start right easy, stop trying and charge the battery!
    Quote Originally Posted by Brucetafer View Post
    has anybody had one of these done by a Shop? how much it costs?? im scared as shit to think this is going to happen to my bike... whats the chances of it happening?? anyway to postpone the breakage?

  2. #32
    apriliaforum expert Hatchman's Avatar
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    I would say prevention would be:
    Bigger battery on trickle charge
    Yamaha Starter Relay
    Brown connector 'mod' (soldered connections and bigger wire to battery)
    European headlight switch so you can turn all lights off while starting

    Great writeup, hope I never have to use it.

    02 Silver RSV

  3. #33
    apriliaforum Junkie odie_trackie's Avatar
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    Those are all good points. I like the Euro light switch idea.
    Something else I did recently was to replace the turn signals, running lights and brakes lights to LEDs. I noticed that the instrument back lighting would dim every time I would hit the brakes. That means it's drawing non-trivial amount of current. After I switched, the gauge lights don't dim.
    I got a LED timer relay too.

    I might get some LED gauge backlights too and maybe a HID kit for the main headlight.


    Thanks for the kudos. I'm glad it's been useful.



    Quote Originally Posted by Hatchman View Post
    I would say prevention would be:
    Bigger battery on trickle charge
    Yamaha Starter Relay
    Brown connector 'mod' (soldered connections and bigger wire to battery)
    European headlight switch so you can turn all lights off while starting

    Great writeup, hope I never have to use it.

  4. #34
    apriliaforum expert Futura's Avatar
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    How does a sprag failure (in the stator housing?) damage the starter?

  5. #35
    apriliaforum expert kzmille's Avatar
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    It appears from the pictures above that the sprag might have locked up completely which then spun the starter at high speed. But I wasn't there, so...

  6. #36
    apriliaforum expert Ally V60's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brucetafer View Post
    has anybody had one of these done by a Shop? how much it costs?? im scared as shit to think this is going to happen to my bike... whats the chances of it happening?? anyway to postpone the breakage?
    Mine was kind of fooked/knackered/toast! all in a oner, cost the wrong side of €750, 2 years ago. At todays rate it would be cheaper to by a second engine!

    Ally

    99' RSV "The Bitch" #063

    [B]Carbon fairing and tail! Blue printed Engine, 54mm tb's, twin Carbon Akrapovic race, Aprilia Akrapovic WSBK Chip, Gillies clip on's and rearsets,Ohlins (RT) front and (PRCLS46) rear suspension, Wave disks, Hel brake and clutch lines, Evo clutch cylinder, Barnett clutch, Evo plug leads with Denso Iridium plugs, 16/44 sprockets, EVO Billet velocity stacks, EVO Airbox, LED rear light and indicators,sticker by AF1

    96 RS 125 Extrema Biaggi rep

  7. #37
    apriliaforum newb Phydeaux's Avatar
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    “There are very few personal problems that cannot be solved through a suitable application of high explosives” - Scott Adams

  8. #38
    apriliaforum Junkie ZdaMan's Avatar
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    Well I got mine done. Ducati sprag and oem housing. Wasn't as bad as I thought it would be. However, I did end up with a problem that took more time to diagnose and fix then the sprag. A wire got pulled out the
    Crankshaft position sensor. Must of barely been making contact because no codes showed up.

    So my advice to the next guy is to use caution when you open the case. There isnt much slack on the wires
    03 Mille RSV
    Mods: Aprilia RSC Ti pipe & Eprom, Evo airbox, de-restricted, 01 Air Inlet, Sachs steering damper, 16 tooth front sprocket, 44 tooth Sealth Sprocket, Renthal R4 SRS chain, Evo plate relocator, TCM spools, DDM tuning HID kit.

    05 Raven R1
    Mods: Full Termi exhaust, BCM race filter, Factory Pro Stacks, PCIII usb w/ dyno tune, Ohlins damper, Pazzo levers, Puig DB windscreen, 1 down front, 1 up rear black sprocket, Spiegler SS brake lines, speedo healer, Roth block off plates, Pro bolt Ti axle & sprocket nuts, Engine Ice coolant, 1CarbonTech CF tank panels, heat shield, hugger & chain guard, MDI CF, Moto frame sliders, Rizoma Graffio rear signals, Watsen signals, Vortex spools & oil filler cap.

  9. #39
    apriliaforum prov-nov mille03's Avatar
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    this is gold . it's good to see people helping other people . thanks

  10. #40
    apriliaforum Junkie odie_trackie's Avatar
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    Well, I am really pleased that this is helping people out. That was my original intent.

  11. #41
    apriliaforum Junkie ZdaMan's Avatar
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    The more I think about it I believe the wire from the crankshaft position sensor was loose the whole time and this is why the sprag went bad. That and i am a idiot because I didnt know when to stop trying to crank it Was more worried about meeting my buddies and missing the ride then anything.
    03 Mille RSV
    Mods: Aprilia RSC Ti pipe & Eprom, Evo airbox, de-restricted, 01 Air Inlet, Sachs steering damper, 16 tooth front sprocket, 44 tooth Sealth Sprocket, Renthal R4 SRS chain, Evo plate relocator, TCM spools, DDM tuning HID kit.

    05 Raven R1
    Mods: Full Termi exhaust, BCM race filter, Factory Pro Stacks, PCIII usb w/ dyno tune, Ohlins damper, Pazzo levers, Puig DB windscreen, 1 down front, 1 up rear black sprocket, Spiegler SS brake lines, speedo healer, Roth block off plates, Pro bolt Ti axle & sprocket nuts, Engine Ice coolant, 1CarbonTech CF tank panels, heat shield, hugger & chain guard, MDI CF, Moto frame sliders, Rizoma Graffio rear signals, Watsen signals, Vortex spools & oil filler cap.

  12. #42
    apriliaforum Junkie odie_trackie's Avatar
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    Well, it's not the really the cranking itself that kills the sprag. It's the engine kicking back that whacks it.
    If the engine is hard to start, invariably you will get more "kickbacks" and that will hasten the sprags doom.

    But you may have a point. That wire being loose and providing an iffy connection probably contributed to your spags departure from this world.

  13. #43
    apriliaforum Member adelyser's Avatar
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    I just did my sprag a few weeks ago. Big thanks to all on this thread. I went with the OEM housing, and a BMW sprag, works like brand new.

    After comparing the worn vs. new parts, I feel that the sprag was probably ok, it was the housing that was worn out, definite grooves worn into it.

    My biggest pain was getting the stubborn flywheel off. I bought the 22mm bolt, and tried pulling it off after heating it, all I did was mangle the threads. I used my oxy-acetylene torch, and started heating it just til it started turning color, and it fell off on it's own.

    Bike runs awesome now.
    Aaron

    '01 Blue Mille, Ohlin's rear shock, Carbon Fiber fenders

    I can help with broken chip pins and other chip problems or questions!

  14. #44
    apriliaforum Junkie odie_trackie's Avatar
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    Very glad this thread has been able to ease someone through what seems to be the RSV1000R right of passage.

    Maybe we should say:
    "There are only two kinds of Mille owners: those who have had a failed sprag and those who are about to."


    Quote Originally Posted by adelyser View Post
    I just did my sprag a few weeks ago. Big thanks to all on this thread. I went with the OEM housing, and a BMW sprag, works like brand new.

    After comparing the worn vs. new parts, I feel that the sprag was probably ok, it was the housing that was worn out, definite grooves worn into it.

    My biggest pain was getting the stubborn flywheel off. I bought the 22mm bolt, and tried pulling it off after heating it, all I did was mangle the threads. I used my oxy-acetylene torch, and started heating it just til it started turning color, and it fell off on it's own.

    Bike runs awesome now.

  15. #45
    apriliaforum Member SmaRTrxxv's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by adelyser View Post
    I just did my sprag a few weeks ago. Big thanks to all on this thread. I went with the OEM housing, and a BMW sprag, works like brand new.
    Second that

    I also went with the BMW sprag, I works perfectly :-)

    Thore
    ... No my english is not perfect, but my danish is... og sådan er det..

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