Removing the gas tank and bodywork In a clean and well-lit area of your garage, clear a workspace. Allot of body work has to come off to do a full kit, and you should lay the parts out as they are removed. If possible, lay the bodywork on carpet or some other non-abrasive surface to prevent as much damage as possible to the finish of your plastic. Start by removing the front seat which comes off with the key.
Turn the fuel tap (fuel petcock) to the OFF position.
Only proceed with a cold engine and a well-ventilated area
Next, using a 5mm Allen key wrench, remove the bolt and conical spacer located in the top front of the fuel tank near the steering stem. Next, raise the tank on its back hinge and remove the fuel line from the fuel tap (fuel petcock). Next, lower the tank back to its original position. Next, using a 10mm wrench and 10mm socket, remove the bolt at the rear of the fuel tank which secures the tank at the back side (see picture 2). Now carefully remove the fuel tank and rest it in a position which will not damage it. An old tire on its side works very well for this.
Now you only have twenty five fasteners left before all of the necessary bodywork will be off. Using a 4mm Allen key wrench, carefully remove all of the bolts which secure the fairings. Do this one side at a time. Start with the left side, first removing the three bolts which secure the mini panel behind the side stand (kickstand). Next, remove the two bolts at the bottom of the side fairing followed by the one in the middle of the fairing. Next, the four bolts around the point where the upper meets the side fairing. Now, look behind the front wheel and remove the 4 bolts holding the chin fairing and the bottom of the upper fairing to the side fairing. Caution at or near this point, the fairing may want to fall off, hold it securely. The turn signal does not need to be removed, just disconnect the wires. As you pull the side panel away from the bike, you just pull the connectors apart that power the turn signals. The chin fairing will now come out with the removal of four more bolts. Now the right side panel, remember to take out the screws that hold in the fresh air duct and the rear of the panel. This panel comes off in the same fashion as the other, just remember to unplug the turn signal.
At this point, you should have a pile of twenty-five fairing screws, one long tank hinge bolt, and the bolt & washer combo that secures the front of the tank.
Removing the upper front fairing and tail section is not required for any part of a RS50 hop-up
Reassembly is the reverse of the process.
Do the job one step at a time in the reverse order of the disassembly process
Before tightening any of the bolts completely, make sure all of the bolts are installed and the bodywork is all lined up properly.
Do not forget to re-install the fresh air duct on the right side.
Click on each picture for full size detail 1