Well...my OEM discs is not that good anymore.
Brembo's runs much more freely....might be because OEM is not fully floating.
So I've replaced OEM with new Brembo HP discs and Z04 pads .... now they run freely.
I've also removed the dust seal in the calipers...pistons moves great now.
The Brembo HP disc is 300gram more heavy then stock disc (each)
Potere - I hope your new Brembo's will do the trick :-)
R7 + RSV4F aPRC on track, Shiver GT on road.
you could just take a rubber mallet to the stock buttons and free the stock rotors.Originally Posted by aarfeldt
This is what I did for my race bike and it now spins like the price is right wheel
2010 RSV4R Racebike
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Calvin Gray
CMRA #192
WERA #192
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Let's Go Racing!
Actually - they started to vibrate last year and it's now so bad it's not usable.
You might have a point though - worth a try :-)
R7 + RSV4F aPRC on track, Shiver GT on road.
illtal- Can you elaborate on this process a bit more?
Do I understand correctly in that you took OEM rotors off the wheel, placed them on a flat non-marking surface, and Thor'd those aluminum flange rivets with a rubber mallet until there was a little free-play between the hub and the rotor itself?
That's an awesome idea, albeit an imprecise science, but a great idea. How many miles have you already put on that solution? Any indicators of increased wear or decreased reliability? I may have to try that.... Sounds FUN!!!
A rubber mallet to the stock buttons and free the stock rotors?
Please explain??
NIIIIIIICE bike btw Aarfeldt ;-)
when I'm rolling the bike it sounds like something is seriously wrong: they are that loud and that loose... I do have back up rotors though (Stock)
When I roll the wheel on the stand the rotors make no noise, and the wheel spins freely, no cleaning rubber boots, no disassemble of rotors and calipers...
No looking for mystery friction (ie warped rotors, stiff piston etc)
and it doesn't take much force to knock the buttons to full floaters as well.
find a good clamp or two because the more of them you free, obviously the more it will rattle and the harder it is to knock the next button loose, unless you go side to side and free half of them first then ride the brakes to free the others, but that's too much work...
Last edited by illtal; 05-15-2012 at 03:34 PM. Reason: wording
2010 RSV4R Racebike
----------
Calvin Gray
CMRA #192
WERA #192
-----------
Let's Go Racing!
LOL Thor'd ha ha ha classic
you are correct sir...
On my racebike I noticed that only some of the buttons were loose on the hubs that connect to the rotors. Upon my inquiry to the guy i got the bike from he said he only partially loosened them with a rubber mallet and he was going to ride the bike to loosen them further. I took it upon myself to loosen them with a rubber mallet (Now, it rattles like a spray can, and the wheel spins freely). Here's what I did:
I took a clamp (2 of them in this exact manner), put them both on the hubs with rubber strips between the clamp and the hub surface. I then took another rubber strip and put a screw small enough to fit through the button but with a nut large enough to lock ( and i say lock loosely), thus preventing the strip from falling through or off the button. Then I had at the button until it was "sufficiently" loosened. Repeat. Does not take long or take much force to loosen them. Two 1/2 strength wacks and man you should have it loose.
Disclaimer: I did buy a set of rotors off fleabay before I started this in case I jacked something up. As I have ridden the buttons are now about 5mm loose, so it rattles, but it they still stop the bike perfectly, so when I'm engine braking I don't lose a ton of entry speed by messing around with brake force.
As far as mileage, these are stock rotors, so when you are down to a certain wear point you are "SUPPOSED" to remove them, these had quite a bit of wear when I got it, and I have put about 7-9 trackdays on the bike since then, bike registers 600 more miles than before, and it is likely less than that because some of the tracks I ride don't have a lot of speed in them. Then there's NOLA and TWS which I have ridden and the speeds there can become excessive and fun! I'm supposed to go back to NOLA then TWS but at either of those places did i have any trouble braking. Actually it forces me to be more aggressive because I like to do oddball stuff like hold the front brake and throttle open on the say u turns like the last turn at NOLA, and trail brake 90 degree turns because of the crazy gsxr geometry... way more entry speed than I'm used to but you have to be hard on the brakes to get the high riding front end to turn properly, so I try different stuff.
If you wiggle the stock rotors on the V4 they do indeed move but maybe a little less than a mm each way, so these will eventually become loosened with aggressive braking, but I think it's best to just go ahead and free the buttons, depending on how you ride it may take a while to achieve this. Also buying full floaters means more $$ which i am not inclined to spend.
I may say that you could POSSIBLY do this with the wheel still on the bike, but I'd be real careful about how much force you use to loosen them up or prehaps missing the rotor altogether.
When i get the bike back, I'll take a video of wheel spinning, you'll hear how loud it is and how very well the wheel spins as well
Last edited by illtal; 05-15-2012 at 06:41 PM. Reason: Thor'd
2010 RSV4R Racebike
----------
Calvin Gray
CMRA #192
WERA #192
-----------
Let's Go Racing!
I'll have my bike back tomorrow I will post up a video after I clean it
2010 RSV4R Racebike
----------
Calvin Gray
CMRA #192
WERA #192
-----------
Let's Go Racing!
currently youtubing thw vid will post up in a new thread
2010 RSV4R Racebike
----------
Calvin Gray
CMRA #192
WERA #192
-----------
Let's Go Racing!
ok i have another thread up about this but I'll post up in here for those who are watching this post
2010 RSV4R Racebike
----------
Calvin Gray
CMRA #192
WERA #192
-----------
Let's Go Racing!
On track this weekend, and 2 things happened.
My BST rear rim become defect - suddently I had no drive - like it was in neutral.
All rivets/bolts that connects the sprocket side to the carbon was broken....so it was spinning without pulling.
12 year old rim...maybe repairable.
Switched to OEM wheel (which I normally use for rain)
Later I lost the silencer on the straight.
Upper spring broke, silencer inserts fell out, and finally the silencer fell off completely.
From 95dB to 130dB in a split second :-)
Video of me loosing the can
R7 + RSV4F aPRC on track, Shiver GT on road.
That track looks so fun, picturesque and flowy. Good stuff right there aarfeldt! I think your BST has exceeded it's use life.
These kind of things are sorta frustrating. You prep a hundred things then the unforseeable happens. Now we have to added silencer springs to the check list.
Well, tried it but maybe too gingerly, not looser. Was wondering if the '10 and '11 rotor/carrier/buttons are different or not. The OEM's are warped so I didn't care about the force of the hit w/ the rubber mallet. But can I ask if your rotor was unsupported during this? I had the whole assembly on a block of wood. I was at the shop Sat where I bought the bike and asked them for the heck of it if they heard of this button loosening ritual, they said no.
potere - italian for power
have M1 permit, will travel
When I heal up a little more I will make a video...
used two C-clamps so that the the rotor and the buttons are in the air.
that was the first I had ever heard of it as well - but I'll get around to doing it sometime this month hopefully
I have some oem GSXR rotors I need to work on before I get back on my bike I
Last edited by illtal; 06-11-2012 at 05:51 AM. Reason: more info
2010 RSV4R Racebike
----------
Calvin Gray
CMRA #192
WERA #192
-----------
Let's Go Racing!
Wow luckily no one was behind you
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