Blue Peg rebuild

[Holgi]

Bad luck 4U!

I took precautionary a FH010 from a Kawasaki zxr600 (Pic7 -> http://www.apriliaforum.de/pegaso/42...-fragen-3.html ). It´s a little bit bigger then the FH008 from the cbr600rr.

Unfortunately my Peg isn´t running yet .. because no motor in it?!

At the moment i try to regenerate the rusty bush of the rear brake lever.
Next i will finish the chopped wiring.

ciao

['74Stratos]

Pic of the offending part and required wiring "headache" medicine...


...more useless guts...


... then a happy little beaver...


... followed by a new one of these...


... and then it slowly went together...






... and pretty much finished up at this point...


... a check with the meter showed a very steady 14.6 volts regardless of high beam or engine rpm.

We all know spinning wrenches can be fun, but I am really looking forward to get back to riding.

The Blue Peg lives to ride again!

['74Stratos]

Andysrage did a little tuning on the Blue Peg this past week. I had been running into the classic "snatchiness" off the bottom and uneven hunting (surging) between 3 and 4k rpm (40 to 60 mph). I also had the hot running stalling, again, at lower rpms and most pronounced during downshifting before curves and roll on acceleration after. Here is a breakdown of the small changes he did that have added up to significant improvement in my bike's smoothness and power.

Caveat, we live in New Jersey so these settings are for sea level on a 2000 U.S. spec Peg.

1. Cleared gas tank drain nipples with drill bit;

2. Disassembled and cleaned petcock to remove varnish and replaced center knob bolt with stainless equivalent;


3. K&N air filter in stock air box and snorkel (I have stock exhaust pipes);

4. Replace stock resistor NGK plug with Iridium resistor NGK plug.




5. Disassemble stock Beru plug cap. Remove and replace resistor with a solid brass spacer cut to the same size and length as resistor. This modification is well known by the F650 guys (and which we have named the "brass monkey") to remove 1 kohm of impedance from the ignition process. Why? Our Rotax motor was originally designed to run with a non-resistor plug. Too many of us pair the Beru (1 kohm) cap with a resistor plug (NGK's are 5 kohm). See above. Too much impedance in the ignition system can create a weak spark, fouling, and poor fuel economy. I had all three symptoms. Really, the only reason to run more than 1 kohm is to prevent radio frequency interference in headsets and intercoms. The 5 kohm in the plug itself is more than enough;

6. Checked impedance at coil;

7. Remove, disassemble and clean carburetors;

8. Reset carb float levels;

9. Set needles at 3rd clip from top;

10. Replace stock pilot jets (37.5) with 42.5;

11. Set air mixture screws at 3 turns out. It now idles at a steady 1400-1500 rpm and starts without hesitation. She pulls really strong off the bottom with an almost complete elimination of off throttle backfiring and popping; and

12. Pulled forks up to 16mm over top triple clamp to quicken the steering.




Rides like it should have from day one. Awesome! The bike finally has given me the confidence to start thinking about setting a date for a multi-day road trip.

¡Ráfagas!

['74Stratos]

Just bought myself a belated birthday present that should add to the practicality of my bike. It is a Givi B33 on the Aprilia accessory top box rack (Monokey) that I got from AF1 Racing. Here are some pictures from my ride into work this morning:

['74Stratos]

Went out for my first ride of the new year. Although 45 degrees F, it was sunny very with little wind. Rode Rt.9 down from the Waretown area and played a bit, in and out, along the Egg Harbor River inlet (Port Republic). Since it snowed last night, the bike got coated in a fine haze of road salt. So, I gave Peg a bath before putting her to bed:








With the very last bits if winter sunlight coming through the trees, I finished up. All clean:


Ahhh, post "job-well-done" porter to warm up. Cheers!

[SJL]

Hi Stratos / Andysrage

Can you give me a few pointers please?

1. Cleared gas tank drain nipples with drill bit; - DONE
2. Disassembled and cleaned petcock to remove varnish and replaced center knob bolt with stainless equivalent; - NICE TOUCH, WILL DO, WHAT SIZE IS IT / PART NUMBER?
3. K&N air filter in stock air box and snorkel (I have stock exhaust pipes); - DO YOU HAVE THE PART NUMBER PLEASE?
4. Replace stock resistor NGK plug with Iridium resistor NGK plug. - DONE
5. Disassemble stock Beru plug cap. Remove and replace resistor with a solid brass spacer cut to the same size and length as resistor. This modification is well known by the F650 guys (and which we have named the "brass monkey") to remove 1 kohm of impedance from the ignition process. Why? Our Rotax motor was originally designed to run with a non-resistor plug. Too many of us pair the Beru (1 kohm) cap with a resistor plug (NGK's are 5 kohm). See above. Too much impedance in the ignition system can create a weak spark, fouling, and poor fuel economy. I had all three symptoms. Really, the only reason to run more than 1 kohm is to prevent radio frequency interference in headsets and intercoms. The 5 kohm in the plug itself is more than enough; - THIS IS PROBABLY WHY MINE WILL NOT START IF I LEAVE IT MORE THAN A WEEK!
6. Checked impedance at coil; - WHAT SHOULD IT READ?
7. Remove, disassemble and clean carburetors; - DONE
8. Reset carb float levels; - ON THE "TO DO" LIST
9. Set needles at 3rd clip from top; - AM UNSURE ON HOW TO DO THIS; TIME TO READ THE MANUAL
10. Replace stock pilot jets (37.5) with 42.5; DO YOU HAVE THE PART NUMBER PLEASE?

¡Ráfagas!

Many Thanks,

Ste

[andysrage]

Ste and others,
Here are some of the particulars:
2. Petcock/fuel tap stainless steel screw - M5x0.8mm thread, 20mm length
3. K&N air filter for stock air box - K&N part number AL-6502
4. NGK Iridium resistor (5kOhm) sparkplug - DR8EIX
5. Stock Beru plug cap resistance should measure between 900 and 1.2k Ohm. Once the resistor is replaced with a brass rod, the resistance should be nearly 0.
6. Coil impedance - Primary coil (measure between coil base and the small electrical terminal; disconnect orange wire first) should be between 0.1 and 0.4 Ohms. Secondary coil (measure between coil base and spark plug wire WITHOUT CAP) should measure between 6k-12kOhm (add another 1kOhm if measured with the spark plug cap).
7. Remove, disassemble and clean carburetors; - DONE
8. Reset carb float levels; - I was aiming for 2 mm below the upper surface of the bowl. On '74Stratos' Peg, this was impossible to achieve but I got close and, just as important, even between both carbs. The excessive bending to the float needle tab indicates that the floats likely need replacing as the plastic has absorbed too much fuel. Ethanol in fuel (like here in US), is alcohol and also known to damage plastic. I would bet all US Pegasos need the float replaced by now and likely explains the lousy fuel consumption values often quoted.
9. Set needles at 3rd clip from top - needles have 5 grooves that allow you to raise or lower the needle by move the circlip. Here in the US, bikes come 2nd groove when starting at the top. Move the clip to the 3rd (middle) groove raises the needle and adds a touch more fuel in the mid range. To access, you only need to remove the tops off of the carburetors and remove the slides.
10. Mikuni "non-bleed" screw-in pilot jets, size 42.5 - Genuine Mikuni p/n N151.067 42.5 EBC also makes a comparable jet p/n 151-42.5

[SJL]

Many Thanks - that has saved a lot of time searching parts!

Cheers,

Ste

[andysrage]

I double checked and updated my above post regarding petcock/fuel tap screw length which is 20mm.

[SJL]

Looking back at the above posts..... Does anyone know if any of the following are a none resistor plug?

Possible spark plugs: Denso IX24 / NGK D8EVX / NGK 206-240 / NGK DR8EVX / NGK 3025 / NGK 6681 / NGK D8EV / NGK DR8EIX / NGK 2850 / NGK JR8B / NGK 6354 / NGK 7237 / NGK stk 6681 / Toyota 90098-74037
According to http://www.sparkplug-crossreference....t/CHAMP_PN/A6G these are usable alternatives to the NGK DR8EIX Iridium plug which is not a none resistor plug.

Cheers,

Ste

[koukosnest]

This one is a none resistor plug plus a torquemaster sparkplug,i have it on my Pegaso Cube:
http://www.torquemaster.it/motoscooter.html

[SJL]

This one is a none resistor plug plus a torquemaster sparkplug,i have it on my Pegaso Cube:
http://www.torquemaster.it/motoscooter.html

Does it run well with this? Better than an NGK Iridium?

Did you fit the kit or just the plug?

Do you have the part numbers and telephone numbers?

Έχει τρέξει καλά με αυτό; Καλύτερη από ό, τι ένα NGK Iridium;

Μήπως σας ταιριάζει το κιτ ή μόνο το βύσμα;

Έχετε τους αριθμούς μέρος και τους αριθμούς τηλεφώνου;

Έχω μεταφράσει αυτό με το Google Translate!

Cheers,

Ste

[koukosnest]

Does it run well with this? Better than an NGK Iridium?

Did you fit the kit or just the plug?

Do you have the part numbers and telephone numbers?

Έχει τρέξει καλά με αυτό; Καλύτερη από ό, τι ένα NGK Iridium;

Μήπως σας ταιριάζει το κιτ ή μόνο το βύσμα;

Έχετε τους αριθμούς μέρος και τους αριθμούς τηλεφώνου;

Έχω μεταφράσει αυτό με το Google Translate!

Cheers,

Ste

Aprilia Pegaso 650 una delle moto che negli anni abbiamo fornito maggiormente con il nostro KIT Completo Su moto con motore monocilindrico il nostro KIT POTENZIAMENTO ACCENSIONE (Cavo Candela Racing + Candela Speciale TM + Capacitore Direct Hits) ha un prezzo molto abbordabile circa 90,00 euro compresa la spedizione

I have fitted the whole kit,it makes a big difference in throttle responce in low rpm at fist and second gear position.
The kit is best upgrade you can make on a Peg plus a K&N air filter:
Send them an email,the kit costs 90,00 euros:
Info:info@torquemaster.it
WebMaster:webmaster@torquemaster.it
Sales:torquemastereuropa@torquemaster.it

[SJL]

Having looked at it, I decided to go for the BOR12LGS Brisk plug as it will plug straight in (after removing the HV Terminal nut), and costs £10 GBP plus postage, I think my bank manager would have a fit if I spent 90 Euro on the bike at the moment!

Starts ok, but runs like a bag of spanners when I try to rev past 3000 rpm, so the carbs are in bits on the kitchen table at the moment.

I have the BST33 406A K743 carbs.

I have main jets at size 112.5 and standard needles set on 2nd clip; the needle on one side looks like there has been some dirt rubbing against it and worn into the surface so I am going to get some new needles tomorrow.

My pilot jets are not screwed in, they are pressed in (UK spec bike).

I am also going to set the needles on the third clip point to increase the flow in the mid range.

The main jets look to be OK and are clear, I recently replaced the float valves so they are ok.

The slide looks ok on both carbs.

[Skowinski]

Is the CBR600 regulator a FH008EE? Looking to pick one up and do that modification myself before there is a problem.

Thanks.