Anyone know the part # for Marchi's that will fit the SXV? I have an opportunity at a near new set of Mag's off a Honda CBR600rr if by an off chance they will fit i will dance with joy!
Any help ?
Anyone know the part # for Marchi's that will fit the SXV? I have an opportunity at a near new set of Mag's off a Honda CBR600rr if by an off chance they will fit i will dance with joy!
Any help ?
Or even the spacer sizes by chance ?
you'll need to find a zero (or very close to it) offset brake disc that fits the brake pattern, or to machine down the wheel a fair bit on the front.
Rear i'd imagine you have to machine the sprocket carrier in a few (maybe 3-6mm) assuming the brake disc to sprocket face to face value is about 190mm off the top of my head.
i did it with 999 wheels (with hayabusa brake rotor) easily and a few off a KTM are very similar, but most others needed alot of machining when i had a look.
Good luck
I wonder how close would the stock wheels off a Tuono come to fitting? Maybe luck up on some fitting issues since both Apes.? ??
Tell me more about how you got a 999 rear wheel to work...Originally Posted by tgracingnz
What year 999? Sprocket carrier modifications? Just custom wheel spacers?
There is a set of Marchesinis for sale on craigslist (Los Angeles) area. I believe the asking price is $1,600 Obo. I just picked mine up last week off this forum) can't wait to take em out for a ride!
ahh its simple. The reason for 999 wheels (any year, so long as its a 5.5, not sure a 6" would fit (i.e. no 999R's) is the distance from the sprocket to the brake disc is about 10-15mm shorter than almost everyother wheel i could possibly measure (and i measured an entire bike rally's rear wheels!!)
For Rear
- Machine down sprocket carrier (about 5mm) to get sprocket aligned). I took more off the carrier cause the wheels so heavy
- Brake disc is perfect
- Don't change bearings just make up spacers that are captive through the bearings (i can let you know measures of everything if you like.) We changed bearings and a few other things which has caused a couple of irritating bearing failures.
- Make sure you secure the inner wheel bearing between the sprocket carrier. If not you can push the bearing out, which is very scary (and makes a mess of things!!!)
Be warned though, this is a cheap way to get solid wheels and a cush drive (cost about 4-5 hundred USD). BUT The rear wheel is HEAVY!!!. If your after the look its a good idea, if your after performance spend up
Although it does throw up the possibility of using Magnesium wheels for RR use (my final aim).
The front wheel is much easier, and an 848 wheel can be used which is forged to equal the benefit of buying after market, but there not much cheaper.
pics please????
Right Lets try this. Sprocket Carrier. You need to machine the sprocket mounting face back about 7mm. Mine currently measures about 12.55mm from the back face of the carrier to the sprocket mounting face. I turned the carrier back in the middle to remove some weight as its pretty big. You also need to machine back the cush drive/sprocket mounting studs and run a die nut down them to clean the threads. All very easy.
Next you have to machine up two spacers. Now i replaced the bearings to be 25mm (rather than the stock 999's 25mm).
Sprocket side: 31.7
Brake side: 10.5
If i did it again i would not replace the bearings and make up a good captive spacer. But you would need to change the spacers by the difference in bearings. If your attempting this you can figure it out. Measures may be out a tenth or two but it wont matter much.
Front: Machine the centre part of the wheel (that goes through the brake disc) down a mm in total, fit a Suzuki Hayabusa brake disc (you will need to use suzuki brake rotor mounting bolts). Alternatively you can machine the brake rotor, but as its usually the same if not more expensive than the wheel, go there.
You will need to space the disc and wheel correctly but that depends on your triple clamps.
WARNING I take no responsibility for any issues you have trying this. It took me a few shots at different ways to get this to work and have had a couple of bearing failures from not making things correctly or missing things. Generally there not catastrophic but you never know. I had one at 215kph, and caused below, noticed early enough - wheel seized solid at pit entry, very very lucky...... you've been warned
Very nice. I have quite a bit of experience with wheel swaps:
Honda NSF100 wheels onto a Kawasaki KX65
Honda NSF100 wheels onto a Kawasai KLX110
Kawasaki EX500 Ninja wheels onto a Suzuki RM125
Honda CBR600f3 wheels onto a Suzuki RM250
Honda CBR600f3 wheels onto a Yamaha YZ250f
Thanks for the pics! I'd love to see a full shot!
sorry but its on a re-tard. it'd work all the same on a normal mo-toard
That is a really nice bike you have there! Who made the body parts?
there just the beon fairings. 450gp.com
How do you fare on it?
good days, bad days
good day.
bad day
was our first year to start building the bike. Pretty much about on pace of our best national riders on SXV's stock now which is good, they're much better riders. In my class we're anywhere from 1-3sec off the pace at the moment, but the class is open to SV's (unlimited mods pretty much - think 80+hp and carbon wheels), 450's ect ect. Won this year by a tigcraft 550! Give me another 2 years and i should be able to get on the pace i think. maybe....
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