checked bike last night, these are the readings:
Battery fully charged, key off:
Battery: 13.09
Battery fully charged, key on:
battery: 12.90
starter relay terminal: 12.90
While cranking:
battery: 10.50-10.70
engine running:
battery: 12.30
engine running at 4k rpm:
battery: 12.31
Battery looks okay but the charging system is not working up to par.
It looks like either you still have bad connections between the stator and the R/R or the R/R and battery, or the stator is bad, or the R/R is bad. Have you measured the no load AC voltage coming off the stator between the various combinations of two the three yellow wires?
ok, i measured the three yellow wire coming from the stator and the AC current ranges from 2.4-3.5 volts. If I remember right, it should be 6.5, right?
Does this mean I need to inspect my stator and sprag clutch?
sorry, i am new to bike mechanic...
Last edited by garyngwind; 08-04-2011 at 12:50 AM.
You are supposed to be measuring voltage, not current. This is done at the brown connector with it disconnected. You should see 60 volts or more from each of three possible connections between the three wires. A-B, A-C, B-C.
Have you inspected the white connector?
KZ, thanks for all the help so far, really appreciate it.
upon inspection, the previous owner has ditched the original white connector to the brown connector. And this is what he did:
He cut off the white barrel connector from the stator side, then use tube wire connector (you know the kind that looks like a clear tube with a metal layer on the inside, and you crimp down on where your wire is splice) to connect three new wires to the R/R.
So basically he ditches the original wires with the white barrel and the brown plug.
everything is connected with those tube connector thing.
So I will have to cut the wire in order to test the AC volt.
Yes, the stator wires have to be disconnected for the running AC test.
I would inspect those crimped connections as well. Are they discolored or hot to the touch during operation? A poorly crimped on butt connector is just as likely to have a bad connection as the the white and brown connectors they replaced. Soldering IMO is the best way to go.
Understood, since I gonna cut those wires to test, I might as well solder all the wires and heat shrink them. They don't appear to discolor or hot though. Will do all these and update you guys later.
Thank you as well, Dan, really great help!!
Last edited by garyngwind; 08-04-2011 at 12:19 PM.
okay, I set my dial on the multimeter to ACV 200, and my reading from the three wires are ranging from 00.0 to 03.5, and it fluctuates like crazy within that range.
btw, my three wires coming from the stator are white.
There are five wires coming through from the stator housing. The two smaller diameter wires are for the flywheel sensor and the 3 thicker wires are for the stator. Assuming it is the stator wires you were measuring it sounds like it is time to take the cover off the stator and inspect it and to do a continuity test on the stator wires. Tie a string to the three stators wire and pull it through the engine compartment leaving one side on the right before removing the stator and wires from the bike to make it easier to route new stator wires. Just pull the new wire through with the string on reassembly. Inspect the stator for any signs of physical damage. It may be a replacement stator that was not seated properly and the flywheel could have damaged it. Early bikes like yours and mine sometimes have the sprag housing bolts break off and destroy the stator. If the PO replaced the stator and did not seat it properly the flywheel could have damaged it enough to stop it working but not seize the engine like a broken bolt normally does.Originally Posted by garyngwind
Here is a photo of the damage a broken bolt did to my stator. Aprilia did not loctite the bolts with 648 on the earlier bikes. The bolts loosen and eventually break from fatigue.
http://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/s...ad.php?t=23616
Last edited by DanV990; 08-04-2011 at 09:48 PM.
this is a picture of my testing.
and I guess I can't avoid it, I will drain the oil and remove the oil tank, and take the stator cover off tomorrow.
With the engine off check resistance between each of the three wires going to the stator and then between each and ground. Should be 0.1-1.0Ω between the wires and infinite to ground.
btw, which brand of torque wrench is good?
I think there are all sorts of decent torque wrenches out there. The most important thing to understand is that one torque wrench cannot do everything. Most torque wrenches are only accurate in the upper 80% of the usable range. A good starting point for motorcycles would be a click type with a range of about 15-100 ftlb.
http://www.toolsource.com/fixed-driv...-p-119255.html
This will cover most things on bikes and some automotive work but is not usable for 6mm fasteners. For those you need something like a 150 inlb wrench. I have click type and dial type. I use them all but really favor the dial type for greater accuracy.
I really like the wrenches made by Precision Instruments. They make most if not all the torque wrenches for Snap-On. They make two types of click type wrenches as well. All their wrenches are available in ftlb or Nm and sometimes dual scale. Here is a nice example of a dial type in a range that I use a lot on the Mille.
http://www.toolsource.com/dial-torqu...h-p-96962.html
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote