Scarabeo 150 airbox removal tips and bog issue?

[KarlTM]

Hi - new here, did search of topic found no details on airbox removal. 2001 150 USA model with carbon canister - all hoses appear good, no kinks etc. 1,600 miles. Factory Service Manual basically says to remove trunk, handles, all surrounding plastic, then saddle airbox cover just to get to the airbox.

Is this really the case? Please - any "quick" ways or shortcuts just to get the airbox out? I need to pull carb to clean it out. A bit of bogging at cracked throttle until warmed up.

Tried Seafoam and Gunk carb cleaner in gas, fresh premium gas etc. But I've only run about 1 gallon through so far. It does run better but not as good as I think it can and should run just up from idle.

I set air mixture screw to 2 1/2 turns out (was at 3 1/8 when I checked it). Runs way better at 2 1/2. Factory setting is 2 1/4 but it was a little fluffy there when fully warmed up. 2 1/2 is crisp. Carb slide is new - I installed (yes without airbox removal - I have shorty screwdrivers). There were signs of the dreaded cracks forming on the slide but no missing slide pieces. Aside from the bog after bystarter signs off and when cracking the throttle until warm, the scooter runs really really good.

Factory pilot jet is a 38 per the factory manual, so an upgrade I've read about for other models from a 35 to a 38 seems irrelevant.

Should I leave the bog alone (do they all do that???) or, when properly clean is the cracked throttle a nice transition from idle to on the needle/main as revs rise in stock form? Idles approx. 1800-2000 when Bystarter activated, then goes down to 1500 or so until warmed up, then revs are about 1600.

More info: Starts with just a whiff of starter - immediate starting. New Battery 12.75 V resting, New Air Filter with fresh No Toil oil on it. New Spark Plug properly gapped and tightened. New oil (amsoil) and oil filter, new rear-end fluid and AGIP coolant. Bike is clean - no damage or apparent abuse. The scooter will do an indicated 80 mph and is at least 10% optomistic. It will do at least 65 in real mph based on traffic speed and radar signs I've been watching. Plenty quick and snappy when warmed up - no complaints there!

I haven't checked Bystarter ohms or voltage at connector, or how quickly the bystarter extends. The Bystarter seems to sign off after 1 min 30 seconds because the initial higher idle drops at that point in time. I can't get the bystarter out of carb (or rather the tiny screw loose) with airbox in way. I assume a bit of the pilot circuit is clogged? Or is there a seperate starter circuit clogged that's in effect as Bystarter extends (but starting idle is higher so this circuit seems to work). It sat for many months before I just got it. May be a slim chance the slide is not rising smoothly but revs and runs perfectly when warmed up.

Also, after fully warmed up, then shut down for an hour or two or four, I can go out and even though not fully warmed up (just none, or one or two tick marks on temp gauge) there will be NO bog at cracked throttle. If the scoot sits overnight, there will be a bog after initial start idle drops and the throttle is cracked. Warmed up is after 2 tickmarks up from bottom on gauge, then thermostat appears to kick in and it stays there a bit before gradually rising to 1/2 way on the temp gauge. Fan kicks in two tick marks from the top mark on gauge - temp never gets close to red.

EDIT - All fuel here is E10 10% Ethanol blend. Also, a valve adjustment has not been done to my knowledge.

Lots of detail but...hoping it will save time. Need airbox out quickly and thoughts on warmup bog at cracked throttle.
Thanks in advance!!!!

[KarlTM]

Anyone? Maybe no one owns the 150 anymore? Please let me know if there's another tech resource out there if possible. Thank you!

[Buckeroo Bob]

Our resident expert, Tom, must be on holiday or out shooting turkey for Thanksgiving. I'm sure he'll be here soon to assist.

[tomd]

sorry just out in driveway takin apart mine but basicaly you have to remove whts stated to rem airbox assy still bout 40 min job theres nothin in the airbox its easier to repair the lil connectors than rem airbox

[tomd]

i can send ya pics

[KarlTM]

Tom & Bob - thank you for the responses! No pics needed at this time - I've got the manual which should normally suffice. Just needed to confirm the manual procedures have to be followed rather than some shortcut like only needing to remove the handle front bolts or something like that to get the top cowl off...

I'd be very interested to hear your thoughts on the cracked throttle bog during warm I'm having up based on what I've described, and what may best fix it. Don't want to waist time if it's as good as it's gonna get. I'm thinking the response should be relatively crisp/normal no matter what the coolant temp is. I've got 4 other bikes, 2 with carbs 2 with EFI and I've been able to tune them for no flat spots the entire rev range - especially in that no throttle to cracked throttle transition -my goal is that the 'beo will do the same.

Granted, the compromises inherent in the carb/emissions stock setup may hamper setting up the carb to allow smooth throttle transitions but I can't really believe that's the case? It may be due to stock ignition timing too - some amount of ignition retard for emissions that doesn't advance until 3000 or so rpms? That may account for the issue if "they all do that" out of the box from the factory. Thanks again!

[tomd]

no to get at carb just remove undersaddle plastic undo air feed hose carb to airbox hose remove it undo clamp to carb rotate carb undo throttle cable bracket another thing to chk for is a free n clear fuel feed screen its in or on the tank bung

[tomd]

no you should have good transition sounds like something in float bowl

[KarlTM]

OK - I'm going in! I saw on the Yahoo Group that some found a size 35 pilot jet in the CVK 26 instead of the factory manual size 38. I'll order a size 38 in case I find a 35 in there. Have you or others found a size 35 in their carbs and switch to a 38 with success? Thanks again for the quick response -it may take me a week or so to get to this as I'll order up a pilot jet first.

[Jay Seeley]

Anyone? Maybe no one owns the 150 anymore? Please let me know if there's another tech resource out there if possible. Thank you!

I got a 2001 150. Thank goodness I haven't had to get into the airbox/carb. Yet.

[KarlTM]

Hi Jay - I see you're in Oregon too. I'm in the Coos Bay area. My 2001 150 has only 1700 miles on it (1600 when I just bought it) and it's in great condition. But...on advice of AF1 and knowing the previous owner did not replace the carb slide, I did replace it, and did find both bottom corners of the slide had a diagonal hairline crack. Had the cracks been successful, a 3/8" chunk would be missing from each corner of the slide. I was amazed this could occur after only 1600 miles!!! The scoot runs great other than that bog on warmup. From the Yahoo Group site, some 01-05 150's had size 38 pilots and some had size 35's when people looked (of course, the only ones that looked were the ones having stalling/bogging). I take it yours runs fine on warmup - no hesitations or bogging when rolling on the throttle while its still warming up? Thanks!

[Jay Seeley]

Hey KarlTM I'm in Eugene. Mine's got 15k on it - how did someone not drive a scooter for 9 years? That's ridiculous low mileage on your Beo. Interestingly, mine just started this bog/stalling thing if it's not warmed up. So I'll be following this thread with interest. Can someone send me a diagram/photo/excellent description of where the throttle slide is, and how I go about checking it? I have a feeling I should check mine ASAP.
Well next summer when the weather's nice let's meet up halfway at Bunch Bar Wayside near Elkton for a 2001 Scarabeo 150 picnic!
Hey Tomd is it worth checking the fuel filter to see if it's clogged up with dryer lint or bug parts? It's easy to get at, anyway. Is the filter just a metal screen?
Thanks, paisanos.

[tomd]

yes if youve the under saddle plastic off tis worth a check look at bottom of tank theres a band clamp holding this say 7/8 diameter piece of potmetal undo clamp withdraw there should be a plastic tube screen popped on the end of that pot metal piece and it seems like it doesnt stay snapped in place well either mite need to look at adapting a metal unit in place of the plastic

[KarlTM]

Hi Jay! If you haven't seen the post already - in Search type in 150 Slide Issue and you'll see the 5th post down by Micah that has photos of the slide with corner broken off. The cracks I saw on my slide were in the same location of where that corner broke off.

Tom - that's great info on the fuel pickup screen - I'll give that a cleaning while I'm in there too if I'm inclined - one never knows! Any recommendations on an in-line filter - what type/brand and where best to place it? Just before Carb, or after the fuel pump and just before the vacum pump?

[Vernon]

Karl, I have ordered two #40 pilot jets for both my Beo 150's as the bog issue is inherent in these scoots. Part# N424-21040 from carbparts.com in Cleveland, Ohio. I haven't installed mine yet but its on the winter maintenance list, just been living with the "bog" issue to date. If you get to it before I do am interested in how it works out.

http://www.carbparts.com/keihin/need...n_jet_list.htm

I am betting both your scoot and mine have #38's in them currently.

TomD, have you swapped out the pilot jet(s) in yours yet, or recall what sizes you've found?

I would be curious to know what size pilot jet was in the Italian spec scoot initially.

Vernon