Alright then, here goes...
*WARNING* I performed this mod on my bike, and it works great...I am NOT responsible for the destruction of your bike if you decide to mod your bike and somehow screw it up....capisce?
I recently decided to upgrade/replace my voltage regulator/rectifier. I had been noticing that my voltages would read fine at idle and at 4krpm when the bike was just started, but after 20-30 minutes of riding, the voltage readings at idle and at 4krpm would decline significantly, so much so that my voltage reading at idle, with the headlight on and the fans running, would be 11.8-12.3 volts (please note the voltage readings I quote are corrected for error, as my bike's voltage regulator reads 0.5 volts low.)
In doing some research for a definitive upgrade, I came across this thread on the Triumph forums...
I shall quote some material from that thread, as it explains the gist as to why I upgraded to a MOSFET or FET style voltage rectifier instead of opting for another Aprilia SCR style rectifier....
“Best widely available R/R (regulator/rectifier) on the market today is the Shindengen FH012AA used on the late (06+) Yamaha FJR, 07+ Yamaha R1 among others (including the Honda FH014AA rectifier I purchased)
What makes it better is that is a MOSFET series controlled device rather than the crude SCR shunt type that is on most bikes until recently and also is a 50A rated device.
MUCH better voltage regulation and runs cooler too due to more efficient devices and control circuitry.
The SCR shunt type consumes more energy in the Regulator itself than the bike is using and dumps a ton of current into the heatsink (feel yours & just see how hot those things run!!!! - don't touch it - you'll burn yourself - seriously!) The problem is exacerbated because their efficiency goes even lower when they get HOT so it's a vicious circle. Heat is the number 1 killer of these devices.
Incidentally its a misconception that shunt type work harder with increased load i.e. higher-wattage lights, heated vests etc - actually, the higher the load on the output, the less work the shunt regulator does in dumping that excess energy and will actually run cooler!!
The FET has extremely low resistance in conducting state and this results in a lower dissipated power from the device while conducting load current, as opposed to the shunt SCR which shunts the maximum current across a significant volt drop, resulting in a higher dissipated power - and resulting temperature, much more so than the FET device.
You can install this unit on your Triumph Sprint, S3, Daytona, TT600, Tiger; Suzuki TL, SV 650, SV1K; 98-03 Aprilia Mille
or indeed ANY bike that has discreet three-phase stator and R/R arrangement. “
SO, from reading that thread, I gathered the MOSFET technology regulators/rectifiers are way better than our stock r/r's. And since I wanted to upgrade, this was the perfect opportunity.
EXCELLENT information in the thread above! Please take the time to read it if you plan on performing this upgrade.
After reading that thread, I decided to search for a used rectifier/regulator on ebay. I found an OEM 08 Honda CBR1000RR Rectifier on there for $55 shipped...great price for a $200 part! Anyway, I ordered it and it showed up fast and in perfect condition. It looked new, as it came of a bike with 6500 miles on it. Most importantly, it read FH014AA on the side, indicating it was a MOSFET type rectifier. Here is the Honda OEM PART# 31600-KVZ-631, Part number on the rectifier: FH014AA
stock rectifier on left, Honda one on the right-
As you can see in the pics, the rectifiers are basically very similar in size, but most importantly, the mounting holes in the Honda part are the correct size and length apart to be able to mount the Honda r/r in the stock location on the Mille....
I went to the store and purchased some generic female spade connectors, size ¼inch , to use to connector the Mille wires to the Honda r/r....you can get fancy and buy the Honda OEM correct connectors for this project. I myself wanted to make sure the mod worked first before spending anymore money.
After checking that the Honda r/r would fit in the stock location on the Mille, I verified through IntraWeb research where the Mille wires would hook up to on the Honda r/r
end part 1, working on part 2 as you read this...