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Thread: Voltage Rectifier/Regulator upgrade (Honda, Yamaha rectifiers)

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    apriliaforum expert pdxmille's Avatar
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    Voltage Rectifier/Regulator upgrade (Honda, Yamaha rectifiers)

    Alright then, here goes...

    *WARNING* I performed this mod on my bike, and it works great...I am NOT responsible for the destruction of your bike if you decide to mod your bike and somehow screw it up....capisce?

    I recently decided to upgrade/replace my voltage regulator/rectifier. I had been noticing that my voltages would read fine at idle and at 4krpm when the bike was just started, but after 20-30 minutes of riding, the voltage readings at idle and at 4krpm would decline significantly, so much so that my voltage reading at idle, with the headlight on and the fans running, would be 11.8-12.3 volts (please note the voltage readings I quote are corrected for error, as my bike's voltage regulator reads 0.5 volts low.)

    In doing some research for a definitive upgrade, I came across this thread on the Triumph forums...

    http://www.triumphrat.net/speed-trip...r-upgrade.html

    I shall quote some material from that thread, as it explains the gist as to why I upgraded to a MOSFET or FET style voltage rectifier instead of opting for another Aprilia SCR style rectifier....

    “Best widely available R/R (regulator/rectifier) on the market today is the Shindengen FH012AA used on the late (06+) Yamaha FJR, 07+ Yamaha R1 among others (including the Honda FH014AA rectifier I purchased)
    What makes it better is that is a MOSFET series controlled device rather than the crude SCR shunt type that is on most bikes until recently and also is a 50A rated device.
    MUCH better voltage regulation and runs cooler too due to more efficient devices and control circuitry.

    The SCR shunt type consumes more energy in the Regulator itself than the bike is using and dumps a ton of current into the heatsink (feel yours & just see how hot those things run!!!! - don't touch it - you'll burn yourself - seriously!) The problem is exacerbated because their efficiency goes even lower when they get HOT so it's a vicious circle. Heat is the number 1 killer of these devices.
    Incidentally its a misconception that shunt type work harder with increased load i.e. higher-wattage lights, heated vests etc - actually, the higher the load on the output, the less work the shunt regulator does in dumping that excess energy and will actually run cooler!!

    The FET has extremely low resistance in conducting state and this results in a lower dissipated power from the device while conducting load current, as opposed to the shunt SCR which shunts the maximum current across a significant volt drop, resulting in a higher dissipated power - and resulting temperature, much more so than the FET device.


    You can install this unit on your Triumph Sprint, S3, Daytona, TT600, Tiger; Suzuki TL, SV 650, SV1K; 98-03 Aprilia Mille
    or indeed ANY bike that has discreet three-phase stator and R/R arrangement. “

    SO, from reading that thread, I gathered the MOSFET technology regulators/rectifiers are way better than our stock r/r's. And since I wanted to upgrade, this was the perfect opportunity.


    EXCELLENT information in the thread above! Please take the time to read it if you plan on performing this upgrade.

    After reading that thread, I decided to search for a used rectifier/regulator on ebay. I found an OEM 08 Honda CBR1000RR Rectifier on there for $55 shipped...great price for a $200 part! Anyway, I ordered it and it showed up fast and in perfect condition. It looked new, as it came of a bike with 6500 miles on it. Most importantly, it read FH014AA on the side, indicating it was a MOSFET type rectifier. Here is the Honda OEM PART# 31600-KVZ-631, Part number on the rectifier: FH014AA

    stock rectifier on left, Honda one on the right-





    As you can see in the pics, the rectifiers are basically very similar in size, but most importantly, the mounting holes in the Honda part are the correct size and length apart to be able to mount the Honda r/r in the stock location on the Mille....

    I went to the store and purchased some generic female spade connectors, size ¼inch , to use to connector the Mille wires to the Honda r/r....you can get fancy and buy the Honda OEM correct connectors for this project. I myself wanted to make sure the mod worked first before spending anymore money.

    After checking that the Honda r/r would fit in the stock location on the Mille, I verified through IntraWeb research where the Mille wires would hook up to on the Honda r/r



    end part 1, working on part 2 as you read this...
    Last edited by pdxmille; 08-23-2010 at 11:48 AM.
    Brad B.

    2006 ZX14 ***SOLD****
    2000 RSV Mille,***SOLD***

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    apriliaforum expert pdxmille's Avatar
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    So here we go, I removed the rear bodywork mounted the rectifier, and got to work wiring the voltage rectifier up....

    here you can see that the r/r fits the stock location, but better still you can see the r/r number on the side



    Here it is mounted up, with the battery pos and battery neg wires in place....blk/blk wires=battery neg...blk/red wires=battery pos...





    as you can see I kinda like wiring overkill...lol! Here are the battery pos and battery neg wires run to the battery from the r/r.........notice I placed a fuse inline to the battery positive and used a 30 amp fuse...the battery negative ground wire bundle is some auxiliary grounds run the the front of the motor....also note, that I reran these wires a little bit after I verified the bike started and ran correctly



    In this picture you can see that I ran the three alternator wires to the Honda R/R...I had to extend the yellow Mille alternator wires and add the female ¼ inch spade connectors to be able to hook them up to the Honda r/r....



    Last edited by pdxmille; 08-23-2010 at 04:41 AM.
    Brad B.

    2006 ZX14 ***SOLD****
    2000 RSV Mille,***SOLD***

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    apriliaforum expert pdxmille's Avatar
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    Next, i realized i forgot to splice in the Mille's red/blue wires to the battery ground, and also splice the Mille's red/black wires to the battery positive wires coming from the Honda r/r.... these red/blue and red/black wires originally hooked up to the OEM Aprilia's rectifier....the bike started and ran fine without these hooked up, BUT after hooking them up, I got even better voltage readings....
    Brad B.

    2006 ZX14 ***SOLD****
    2000 RSV Mille,***SOLD***

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    apriliaforum expert pdxmille's Avatar
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    okay, so voltage readings with a voltmeter with the Honda rectifier, headlight on...

    14.46 volts at idle
    14.55 volts at 4krpm

    more importantly, when the fans kicked on, i didn't get the huge voltage drop I'd get with the OEM style rectifier i had on the bike before. With the OEM style rectifier i had on the bike before, at idle with the fans running at a stop light, i'd watch the voltage drop to 11.5-12.0 volts.....now with the Honda rectifier...

    bike at stop light with the fans and headlight on- 13.90 volts

    I checked the Honda r/r after a 20 minute ride and it was only slightly warm to the touch, whereas my older r/r, after a 20 min ride, would literally be too hot to touch...
    Brad B.

    2006 ZX14 ***SOLD****
    2000 RSV Mille,***SOLD***

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    Quote Originally Posted by pdxmille View Post
    okay, so voltage readings with a voltmeter with the Honda rectifier, headlight on...

    14.46 volts at idle
    14.55 volts at 4krpm

    more importantly, when the fans kicked on, i didn't get the huge voltage drop I'd get with the OEM style rectifier i had on the bike before. With the OEM style rectifier i had on the bike before, at idle with the fans running at a stop light, i'd watch the voltage drop to 11.5-12.0 volts.....now with the Honda rectifier...

    bike at stop light with the fans and headlight on- 13.90 volts

    I checked the Honda r/r after a 20 minute ride and it was only slightly warm to the touch, whereas my older r/r, after a 20 min ride, would literally be too hot to touch...
    Didnt understand MUCH, dont think I could do it, but a very nice write up their PDX

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    apriliaforum expert meanstrk's Avatar
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    I installed the same R/R in the SV650 too. May have to look at doing the same for the Mille since the voltages suck on that one...
    Ron
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    apriliaforum expert deefred's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by meanstrk View Post
    I installed the same R/R in the SV650 too. May have to look at doing the same for the Mille since the voltages suck on that one...
    The Mille and Futura R/R is the same only the connectors differs.

    Do the parallell wiring mod and the voltage should step up.
    2001 RST Futura in stream Silver.
    Mods: Modified Öhlins fork from mille R, EBC brake discs, HEL front brakelines, Carbon RS 250 front fender, Wiring mod for charging. Engine related:05 map, Iridium plugs, tuneboy, derestriced intake, old mille airboot, staintunes exhaust. Lambda bung hardbrazed in the "breadbox". Öhlins mille R rear shock with 110N/mm spring and the integrated hydraulic preload adjuster. LED Voltmeter installed inside the dash for monitoring charging. Duc 999 radial m/c for brake and clutch. EBC 320mm brake discs
    NWS hugger. Equipment: Famsa tankbag,
    CBR 600 -07 MOSFET R&R FH008EE providing stable 14.4 - 14.5 V (with my wiring mod). Daytona heated grips with mccoi pwm controller and automatic chain oiler

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    apriliaforum expert Smitherz's Avatar
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    This is the next mod I'll be doing on my bike. It would be nice to break free from having to keep plugging in the battery tender once a month. Good work PDX.

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    and what you get with this mod pdxmille?

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    apriliaforum Junkie KFD's Avatar
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    Hey PDX, thanks for the write up! I am on the hunt for a RR for mine now as well... So I got a little lost on the wires from the alternator and to the battery, could you clarify that a tad for me?
    KFD
    Quote Originally Posted by gtpandrsvrguy View Post
    I would think you guys must have fallen onto an aprilia otherwise you would be out there riding a blue R1 with the other 5000 posers (in every town in the nation).

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    apriliaforum expert Brucetafer's Avatar
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    good job, now ride her, slap her and get some mud on the tires!!!

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    apriliaforum expert pdxmille's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Smitherz View Post
    This is the next mod I'll be doing on my bike. It would be nice to break free from having to keep plugging in the battery tender once a month. Good work PDX.
    it aint gonna solve THAT....it only makes sense to keep any big twin (Aprilia, Ducati, RC51, etc...) hooked to a battery tender every moment she's not in use.....they are hard on batteries and starters
    Brad B.

    2006 ZX14 ***SOLD****
    2000 RSV Mille,***SOLD***

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    apriliaforum expert pdxmille's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by giorgos View Post
    and what you get with this mod pdxmille?
    a better charge to the battery and to the bike's electrical systems when being used
    Brad B.

    2006 ZX14 ***SOLD****
    2000 RSV Mille,***SOLD***

  14. #14
    apriliaforum expert pdxmille's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by KFD View Post
    Hey PDX, thanks for the write up! I am on the hunt for a RR for mine now as well... So I got a little lost on the wires from the alternator and to the battery, could you clarify that a tad for me?
    KFD

    yeah, sorry, it wasnt the best how to...I will create a diagram this afternoon...
    Brad B.

    2006 ZX14 ***SOLD****
    2000 RSV Mille,***SOLD***

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    apriliaforum expert JohnRSV's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pdxmille View Post
    yeah, sorry, it wasnt the best how to...I will create a diagram this afternoon...
    Hey Brad, I don't have the brown connector mod on my RSV and was wondering if there would be differences in the process? Your "under the seat" wiring looks so much more complicating than the stock.. and I'm too tired to figure it out today

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