Chain Cleaning/Lube intervals

[NHMana]

What do you guys use for cleaning your chain and how often do you lube it?
I've been using Wd40 to clean it and then SX chain wax after, and about every 400-600 miles.

[oldspice]

Much debate on this, but I generally try to oil the chain when I think of it or it starts to look really bad. Probably every 400 miles or so? As for cleaning it, I think I've cleaned the chain once since in 6000 miles. Let the beatings commence!

[armadillored]

I use MFR by Pro Gold to clean and lube the chain every 400 +/- miles. I was going to use WD40 to clean it, but a lot of posts say that it attacks the "O" rings.
I spray MFR and quickly wipe it of till the chain is clean, then give it a final spray. After it drys the chain looks like it was clear coated.

[Squints5577]

I use MFR by Pro Gold to clean and lube the chain every 400 +/- miles. I was going to use WD40 to clean it, but a lot of posts say that it attacks the "O" rings.
I spray MFR and quickly wipe it of till the chain is clean, then give it a final spray. After it drys the chain looks like it was clear coated.

Hmmm never thought of using the lube to clean it, I always used a cleaner then lubed it up. I shall try it your way this next time to see how that goes.

[armadillored]

I found using the spray lube does a good job if you're quick to wipe it off. And you'll use a lot of the lube to clean it.

[durdle]

Got a pretty dirty chain after a week tooling around Durango. What about using plain old kerosene as a chain cleaner? I think it would be a lot less expensive than using the chain lube to clean, then re-applying again. Any comments?

[NHMana]

Durdle,
Plain old kersosene may be cheaper, but I don't think it will help the o-rings on our chains, I asked a local dealer and he didn't recommend it. but, then again he also told me it is my bike. Good luck

[SilverFoxUno]

My personal opinion is one must be careful with what one uses to clean one's chain...for the simple reason that the Mana is far easier on a chain than a bike with a standard transmission. It will last longer and not stretch like on a bike where power is applied in "steps". The Mana's power is applied in a constant fashion. While the service manual says to replace the chain and sprockets (crown and pinion in the manual vernacular) at the 30,000 KM (18641 mile) mark, my chain is still tight to the rear sprocket after almost 17K miles.

If you use something that affects the rings, you may not get all the life out of it you might, while on a conventional bike, the life limit is not contamination.

Just some food for thought…

[armadillored]

I think the dealers sell a spray chain cleaner, but it would be more expensive than kerosene.
When I bought my lube the cleaner was the same price, so I just got the lube and used it as a cleaner.

[tannerman007]

I use parafin top clean mine as it contains wax and then castrol chain wax gones white but does stay on chain not spred allover the wheel. Do mine every two weeks.

[williamr]

Kerosine or diesel are better than anything for cleaning. WD40 is a solvent and I'm wary that it can penetrate the O rings and wash out the grease.

I use a ScottOiler, as it keeps a steady drip of lubrication that also washes off the crud as you ride. Still need to clean off the chain once in a while - a paper towel does a really good job of taking off surface dirt, and you obviously need to keep an eye on the adjustment, but otherwise it needs no other oiling - and it stays well lubed in the rain. You do need to fiddle a little initially setting up the drip rate to avoid a chain that's too dry or one that flings oil on to the wheel, but it's easy enough to do.

There's no reason why you shouldn't get 30,000 - 40,000 miles out of a properly maintained chain, but they wear unevenly. Measure the stretch at several points along the chain every three or four months, and if you find a section that's out of spec, replace it. Unevenly worn chain gives uneven power transmission and you can feel it in your ride at speeds below about 50 mph.

Just a point - excessive engine braking causes more chain and sprocket wear than power transmission, so make sure that you use the brakes properly when slowing or coming to a stop.

Rob

[Cochise]

You can also use this http://www.aerostich.com/loobman-chain-luber.html . I have used one on several bikes and it works very well.

[Thor_R]

I've stopped using aerosols since I find them expensive, more messy and very likely bad for your health since it's almost impossible not to breath in a little every time you use them. Instead I use whatever oil is at hand and an old rag (currently I use engine oil but chain saw oil is a cheaper alternative which should work just as well). I pour a thin stripe of oil on the accessible piece of chain after I park the bike and use the rag to distribute it and to wipe off excess oil and dirt. I do that quite often (usually after a longer ride or after a couple of trips to work and back) so that my chain is always lubed well and relatively clean. Naturally only a part of the chain is cleaned every time but that's enough to keep dirt on the chain to a minimum.

Even though I wipe off the excess oil my rear wheel still gets dirty but that is easily cleaned with soap water with a dash of petroleum (lamp oil) in it. I also use petroleum and an old dish brush if the chain is up for an in depth cleaning but after I started using the above method I doubt that I find this necessary again.

[durdle]

I was not reading the manual carefully enough. It says use mineral spirits or kerosene to clean the chain. Had some mineral spirits.....worked fine. Then applied some DuPont teflon chain lube. Looks clean as a whistle!

[xan21340]

Automatic Transmission Fluid for the whole deal. Clean and lube. WD-40 will work. Will not violate the o-rings. I have had lots of chain bikes and did WD-40 only on Suzuki DL650 with good wear and zip problems. I no longer spray. Our chain is surrounded by so much stuff that hard to get at it and not hit other things. But, with a small squeeze bottle of ATF, and a soaked rag, bike on center stand (I own the GT), I just hold the soak rag around the chain and spin. Keep it clean and often, and don't worry about the lube part. One hand-wipe, and I care a pack of those, takes all the ATF off of hand. O-rings hold the chain lube in. I have not adjusted the chain in 5000 miles. I keep going to do it, and measure everything, and all is still within limits. And talk about cheap! ATF likes everything about a chain. And if you are on the road, and not returning home for days, still easy to have a clean working chain no matter what the weather and carry the small bottle. This is usually a winter debate when folks are snowed in. Is it too hot to ride? So we are debating? I rode several long days at 98+ degrees. After three last week, hundreds of miles each, I just have left the Mana in the bike shed. And I came in here to debate chain lube.