Page 6 of 6 FirstFirst ... 456
Results 76 to 90 of 90

Thread: Tech Tips thread

  1. #76
    apriliaforum expert Unique's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Kolding, Denmark
    Posts
    568
    Quote Originally Posted by Precis View Post
    For those that haven't changed the Clutch Slave Cylinder yet, Factory Racing in the UK are selling some cheap (GBP60), to create some cash-flow.
    http://www.motopike.com/index.php?ro...th=247_249_293
    If you're outside UK, it'll be less their 20% tax, but plus some for freight.
    Note that I had one fitted to my wife's Capo and after a long time of sitting still, it failed. I enquired after a seal kit and Adam replied very quickly that failures were very unusual; he's sending me a seal kit at no charge. His customer-service is tops and to be fair, I haven't been able to find any other reports of failures of his products. I accept that this failure is rare and might have occurred because the bike sat unused for many months, so I've bought a replacement slave as well, just in case there really is something irrepairably wrong with the original.
    No connection to the company other than as a pleasantly surprised customer with a swiftly and fairly sorted problem.
    Thank you Precis for pointing it out. I've just ordered one.
    Capo 2004 Flame red.
    MosFet RR, Eastern Beaver harnes, Metal fuel couplings, HyperPro rear spring, Ricor intiminators, Hepco Becker alu cases, GPS controlled ProOiler chain lube system, iridium sparkplugs, Garmin 660 SatNav, Aprilia heated grips, Aprilia chrash bars, Wilks sump guard, Brembo 4 pot brake mod, coils, screen mod, Aprilia hazard light, angle air valves, K&N airfilter, Catfish/Grant mapping, fixed internal side cases, Bagster tankcover and bag, Factoy Racing slave cluch.
    Yamaha XT 550 1983.
    Honda CX 500 1978. In bits and pieces.
    Honda NTV 650, 1994 SOLD

  2. #77
    apriliaforum expert BigSteve's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Melksham, Wiltshire, UK
    Posts
    7,559
    Quote Originally Posted by Unique View Post
    I've just ordered one.
    In Pink to match your bike no doubt eh Finn...

    Pity they don't do them in Blue, the gold might go though...

    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3707835079...ht_1341wt_1183
    Last edited by BigSteve; 02-21-2015 at 05:42 AM.

    (2003 Infinity Blue Capo) - Leo Vince x3 Cans/K&N Air filter/Snorkle-less/Catfish Map/ZX-6R FH016 Mosphet Rectifier/Front Coils re-located/Metal Fuel CRC Fixings/Brown Connector-less/Hyperpro Springs F&R/Rear Hugger/R&G Heated Grips/Krauser Alloy Panniers/Givi G45 Box/BMW GS1150 HandGuards with Touratech Extensions/Kawasaki Z1000 Mirrors/CREE LED's/Wilks Raid Rep Sump Guard & aprilia Crash Bars + Lots of Stickers..

    (2000 RSV Mille Gen 1) Moto GP Rep ..

    (2004 BMW R1150 RT) Bigger touring screen, headlight protector & aftermarket reflective decals ..

    (1990 Kawasaki ZZ-R 1100C1) Remus Innovation S/S Full System, Double Bubble Screen, ZXR750 full lift Carbtops & RenTec rack ..

  3. #78
    apriliaforum expert Precis's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    Melbourne, Australia
    Posts
    5,940
    Here you go Steve - just the job for your screen:
    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Factor...#ht_265wt_1040
    Aut viam inveniam aut faciam

  4. #79
    apriliaforum expert JohnG.'s Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Cooma N.S.W.
    Posts
    4,482
    Quote Originally Posted by Stanleybobly View Post




    Thanks for posting....BTW,'bit harsh, mine just fell off it so worn
    JohnG.

    '02 Capo.

  5. #80
    apriliaforum expert BigSteve's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Melksham, Wiltshire, UK
    Posts
    7,559
    Quote Originally Posted by Precis View Post
    Here you go Steve - just the job for your screen:
    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Factor...#ht_265wt_1040
    Nahh, probably sold them all by now Steve...interesting that you knew about them ...

    (2003 Infinity Blue Capo) - Leo Vince x3 Cans/K&N Air filter/Snorkle-less/Catfish Map/ZX-6R FH016 Mosphet Rectifier/Front Coils re-located/Metal Fuel CRC Fixings/Brown Connector-less/Hyperpro Springs F&R/Rear Hugger/R&G Heated Grips/Krauser Alloy Panniers/Givi G45 Box/BMW GS1150 HandGuards with Touratech Extensions/Kawasaki Z1000 Mirrors/CREE LED's/Wilks Raid Rep Sump Guard & aprilia Crash Bars + Lots of Stickers..

    (2000 RSV Mille Gen 1) Moto GP Rep ..

    (2004 BMW R1150 RT) Bigger touring screen, headlight protector & aftermarket reflective decals ..

    (1990 Kawasaki ZZ-R 1100C1) Remus Innovation S/S Full System, Double Bubble Screen, ZXR750 full lift Carbtops & RenTec rack ..

  6. #81
    apriliaforum expert Stanleybobly's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Netherlands & Türkiye
    Posts
    3,242
    http://www.bull-sc.com/web/index.php...chk=1&Itemid=1

    Rally Raid handlebar riser copy
    made in italy by Bull-SC

    Name:  img1471ht.jpg
Views: 1196
Size:  72.4 KB

    source : link

    sold: "01 Caponord |Flame Red|, Modlist done: Honda CBR600 RR Mosfet (FH008) Rectifier Mod, Brown Connector Mod
    now: "04 Caponord |Rally Raid| FH016 Mosfet R/R | GPR Titanium Exhaust|
    01 Futura [infinity blue]
    Caponord Stanleybobly style loomed MOSFET Rectifiers & Fuelline Kit FS

  7. #82
    apriliaforum expert Precis's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    Melbourne, Australia
    Posts
    5,940
    Quote Originally Posted by BigSteve View Post
    Nahh, probably sold them all by now Steve...interesting that you knew about them ...
    They're on offer to Yamaha owners...
    Aut viam inveniam aut faciam

  8. #83
    apriliaforum prov-nov
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Wirral, UK
    Posts
    47
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	DSC_0841.jpg 
Views:	56 
Size:	492.9 KB 
ID:	283678

    Gidday fellas,

    On the way home last night, and after seizing the rear brake calipers by getting a 15mm socket wedging itself (unbeknownst to me) in the brake lever after its previous visit to the garage (they have apologised!), I glanced down at the tyre. I could see shiny stuff - steel radial - poking through the rubber at several points, in fact over a lot of the tyre, and within the tread, not on the side wall. Not related to the seizure i think, I was only going 15mph at the time and it was sudden, and promptly fixed when the socket was extricated. This is a newish tyre and there's plenty of tread left. My tyres are Conti Road Attack IIs, and they've been great ... until now.

    I'm taking the bike into the garage again tomorrow to get the chain and sprockets done, and a Scottoiler fitted, so will get a new tyre fitted. Obviously, I'll be making a claim for the present one. The tyre has never been over-inflated and I ride very conservatively, so I can't account for the failure. Have any other riders experienced a similar tyre disintegration? I should be okay to claim for a new one, but just thought that I would put this out there in case it turns out to be a common issue,
    cheers for any response,

    Matt

  9. #84
    apriliaforum expert sloth's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    East Riding of Yorkshire
    Posts
    764

    Post Balancing Throttle Bodies by Exhaust CO levels

    Laszlo__ asked how we balanced the throttle bodies using the exhaust CO levels, rather than the vacuum tubes. So here goes. This is what we did. I do not profess to be an expert, or even competent. But Alan that did this for me has been trained. And I do know that the results of the Catfish map and these balanced TBs are very enjoyable indeed.

    First, you need an exhaust CO analyser than can be fitted to the test ports on the exhaust down pipes. We were using the ProBike unit with the twin cylinder hose kit

    The gas test ports on the downpipes are before the exhausts join, which, combined with the twin hose kit, means that we can test the exhaust from one cylinder at a time.

    P1070320 by ~Diablo~, on Flickr

    So we let the bike run and settle at idle, and see what is the CO level on each cylinder (measure one cylinder, then switch the selection valve on the hose kit and measure the second cylinder).

    On Walter, CO levels at idle:
    Front = 3.8%, Rear 0.2%. So this tells us that the two cylinders are not really working the same. TBs not balanced.

    The air bleed screw on the front TB was closed, the rear one open about 1/8th of a turn. So we started to open the front screw a little. We continued to take exhaust CO measurements from each cylinder, and adjust the TB air bleed screw, until we got to:

    Front = 0.32%, Rear = 0.3%

    So now the Throttle Bodies are balanced (or near enough).

    And from there on, it is simply a question of adjusting the IFT using TuneECU (or whatever software is at hand, in this case we were using TXB Navigator). We increased the IFT until we reached the idle exhaust CO level we wanted, which was 3.5%. While doing this we kept switching the tester between cylinders so that we could check the TB balance did not shift (it can move a bit as the IFT is adjusted).

    With the richer IFT, we ended up with a nicely balanced:

    Front = 3.22%, Rear = 3.37%

    That was with IFT at 46.1%. (Although I have realised that comparing IFT between machines is fruitless, because it all depends on the position of the TB air bleed screws)

    One day I shall, I think, get the hose kit and the cheaper Gunson CO tester (the ProBike 4 gas tester is very nice and also very expensive) to see if I can manage this by myself.


    Devil worshipper

  10. #85
    apriliaforum expert deefred's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Sweden, Linköping
    Posts
    5,524
    I would still do a vacuum check afterwards to see that vacuum are reasonable near each other.

    I was chasing for years a problem with my bike which was that the front cylinder was running much richer than the rear.

    Despite having checked vacuum synch several times, cleaning and swapping injectors, cleaning throttle-body, checked valve timing, trying another ECU, TPS reset etc the front was always running richer. I was measuring the CO% at the dedicated ports and could verify it.

    This year I put on a complete secondhand throttle body and the problem was gone.
    Its really irritating that I could not find the root cause, but shows that equal vacuum should have roughly equal CO%

    Only using CO% for synching can hide other problems.
    2001 RST Futura in stream Silver.
    Mods: Modified Öhlins fork from mille R, EBC brake discs, HEL front brakelines, Carbon RS 250 front fender, Wiring mod for charging. Engine related:05 map, Iridium plugs, tuneboy, derestriced intake, old mille airboot, staintunes exhaust. Lambda bung hardbrazed in the "breadbox". Öhlins mille R rear shock with 110N/mm spring and the integrated hydraulic preload adjuster. LED Voltmeter installed inside the dash for monitoring charging. Duc 999 radial m/c for brake and clutch. EBC 320mm brake discs
    NWS hugger. Equipment: Famsa tankbag,
    CBR 600 -07 MOSFET R&R FH008EE providing stable 14.4 - 14.5 V (with my wiring mod). Daytona heated grips with mccoi pwm controller and automatic chain oiler

  11. #86
    apriliaforum expert sloth's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    East Riding of Yorkshire
    Posts
    764
    Quote Originally Posted by deefred View Post
    I would still do a vacuum check afterwards to see that vacuum are reasonable near each other.

    I was chasing for years a problem with my bike which was that the front cylinder was running much richer than the rear.

    Despite having checked vacuum synch several times, cleaning and swapping injectors, cleaning throttle-body, checked valve timing, trying another ECU, TPS reset etc the front was always running richer. I was measuring the CO% at the dedicated ports and could verify it.

    This year I put on a complete secondhand throttle body and the problem was gone.
    Its really irritating that I could not find the root cause, but shows that equal vacuum should have roughly equal CO%

    Only using CO% for synching can hide other problems.
    Cheers Deefred - since it's easy enough to do, one day when I'm feeling enthused I'll puck the vacuum gauges on too to see how they compare.


    Devil worshipper

  12. #87
    apriliaforum newb
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    Whitby United Kingdom
    Posts
    14

    Wheel bearing removal made easy!!

    Tools Req: Long Drift, Pipe wrench, Hammer, M12 expanding Bolt and 17mm spanner.

    Once the dust seal has been removed along with the circlip.

    1, insert expanding bolt into bearing and using pipe wrench to hold the bolt tighten nut.
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	2016-03-01 10.29.58.jpg 
Views:	57 
Size:	128.4 KB 
ID:	301962

    2, When spannered up really tight use your drift from the other side to drift out the bearing.
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	2016-03-01 10.34.11.jpg 
Views:	61 
Size:	124.0 KB 
ID:	301963Click image for larger version. 

Name:	2016-03-01 10.34.11.jpg 
Views:	61 
Size:	124.0 KB 
ID:	301963

    3, Remove the spacer tube and drift out the other side bearing, total time 8 mins

    4, The sprocket carrier bearing is simple to drift out once the seal and circlip have been removed. (No special tools REQ)

    5, Clean up your hub spray a bit of chain oil around the area the new bearings are to be drifted into place, reseat your circlip and press or lightly tap in your new dust seals.

    NB DO NOT FORGET THE 'SPACER'!!! Job done.

  13. #88
    apriliaforum Junkie fig's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    usa
    Posts
    490
    Brilliant
    2002 Aprilia Capo
    2009 Buell 1125CR
    2013 BMW S1000RR
    2014 Suzuki Vstrom DL1000A (new off the floor 2016)

  14. #89
    apriliaforum newb Kapo dicAprilia's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Location
    Transilvania, RO
    Posts
    13

    help needed...

    Hi guys!

    First: my english is so bad.. hope you will understand my problem and give me a solution.

    Second: my Capo runs badly at 3000 - 4000 rpm or less. I can feel a sort of jolts (?!?!) and can't reach the max power and speed. I couldn' go over 200 km/h and over 7000 rpm.
    What is the problem? Does anyone knows? Thanks!

  15. #90
    apriliaforum prov-nov
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    California
    Posts
    48
    If you follow the service manual to remove the tank, notice that it says not to remove the two hoses from the back of the tank. One has an Oetiker clamp style (short) while the other has a spring style clamp (long).

    You can remove the short hose as it is easy to reinstall but the longer overflow hose is a bugger and the space limits make putting an Oetiker back on difficult. Pulling that long hose up and out though insures you'll probably never get it back in along the same route it came from. Here is the easy way to follow the same route:

    Tie a piece of string to the overflow hose at the bottom so that when you gently pull the hose up you have a witness thread to pull it back down the same route. Just untie the string from the hose if you set the tank aside for working on the bike and retie when the tank goes back on. A little lube on the hose makes it slide along the route very easily. I use wire pulling lubricant as it does the job and then evaporates really quick.

Page 6 of 6 FirstFirst ... 456

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •