Thanks for your posts, both of my leads came out when in a country lane in pitch black i thumbled around until the leads shorted out which gave a clue to the problem, taking off my key ring i threaded the wires through the ring to make a permanant short, this got me home.
after taking the ignition apart it was not obvious where the leads came from, thanks to your posts I have soldered them back in place.
there appears to be too much movement on the leads entering the switch when you move the stearing, this constant movement will eventually make the solder joints break again. to stop this i have taped the cable to the outside of the switch so there is no movement of the leads in the switch, there is just enough lead to do this, I have also re positioned the horn so it stops fouling the cables.
As a note of possible interest, my peg has been cutting out regularly and requires a fuse removal and stick back in action to get it going again.
After a strip down revelaing many a corroded multi concetor, I cleaned them all up. of particular interest was the concetors to the voltage reg which I removed and soldered up (thanks Frodo) and also I found the previous owner had cut these two ignition wires to repair the (much talked about problem). The rather cack handed repair had appeard to of burnt throught the insulation tape and 'could' of been shorting. Again I soldered these up and havily insulated them from each other. so far so good.....
Maybe this might help someone??
After facing this problem for the 3rd time, here is what I came up with and I think it's working pretty well so far.
As you can see from the photo above I've soldered a 1,5mm piece of copper cable to the original cable (after cutting of its end). This way the copper cable fits exactly into the connector hole making it a lot harder to move when the cables move. Then I've soldered it and after that I put some glue on the connector.
I hope that I won't have to come back on this kind of fault again.
This problem happened to me many times. I also just joined the 2 wires to get home then soldered the wire back on. My soldering skills suck that's why it kept happening again. My final solution was to solder it then took a glue gun and filled the space inside the ignition with glue. The problem has never happened again.
There is no need for a code but if you ever do need one here they are:
User code: 00069
Service code: 25973
2nd time again for me this morning.
Remembered what the issue was and got it home. I've repaired with some copper spikes from the unit to the wires, see how this goes before glueing. But, nothing goes smoothly, when remounting I lost one of the screws... couldn't have gone far, but bugger me if I could find it!!!!
to do it very easily undo the 4 allen bolts that hold the headlight assembly on. you can then position the headlight and clocks to one side and this will allow easy access to the bottom ot the ignition barrel. Where the wire enters the ignition barrel there are two screws ( i think on is at 12 oclock the other at 6). undo these and you are in.
it can be done without taking the headlight off but it is fiddly.
I soldered mine and it lasted a while. In the end I bought the wiring for an F650 classic (with carbs) as this was cheaper than the Pegaso part. I epoxied the cable into the plastic base so it doesn't flex when the steering is turned. Still going fine.
2006 Pegaso Trail
My last repair must not have been that good. It reoccurred this week while I was up in the city. I had to bodge the wires to carry on using the bike. Anyway, I managed to get a 2nd hand replacement on eBay. £15 delivered. It was from an SR50. Fitted perfectly. I made sure that the wires are secure and filled it with glue. Fingers crossed it's done and dusted this time. Oh - Aprilia wanted £165 for a new unit!