lower front forks SXV 550
i ride a lot on track an hav my front forks slid up the triple clamps as much as they will go.i feel the front would turn better if i could lower them even more. AF1 racing say u can shorten the forks internally, to lower the front. NO one in malasiya can help me.T hey all want 'how 2 pictures or diagrams step by step. Pls. help.
it's not exactly a step by step but it's me doing the fork lowering thing. http://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/s...d.php?t=138519Originally Posted by L84ad8
Is possible a "how to" for change piston and rings?
Hi, been reading through the lowering topic. I feel that heating Springs for lowering weakens them. I feel cutting them would (iff possible) be wiser.
Both methods increase spring rate however (stiffen up). Marginaly however depending on spring type and amount.
MT
I've got two pistons makin me go foreward.
I need twelve to slow me down.
I've just picked up a new 09 SVX 550 (U.S.), removed the throttle stop, exhaust restrictor cones and air box silencer, loaded tuneboy map 15017 and was pretty disapointed with the big flat spot from throttle closed to about 1/4 open. I haven't started tweaking the maps yet myself, as I am hoping that someone has already been down this path and has some suggestions.
I guess the first question is can I get my hands on the maps in this thread?
Thanks
David
Load map 15030, synch the throttle bodies with a mercury gauge (or comparable tool) and set the TPS.
Never accept mediocrity, always demand competence.
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sprag clutch replacement
i see this a step by step post for changing the sprag clutch on another type of aprilia any body willing to do one for the rxv/sxv with pictures and what locktite to used and torque settings would be good if someone done one as they a common issue on these engines cheers
This is a copy of the procedure from XVAsylum ( http://xvasylum.wikidot.com/guide:engine-tuning-101 ) but with pictures added to help noobs like me
Things you'll need:
* A CarbTune ( http://www.carbtune.com/ ), or homemade manometer ( http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0nKaGEMLZjs ). I use a CarbTune in this How-To, but the same principles apply.
* 185mm of regular 8mm fuel hose.
1) Take your bike for a spin to get it up to normal operating temperature.
2) Remove the seat and lift the tank.
3) Disconnect the hoses connected to the right side of the airbox. These are the atmospheric pressure pickup and the oil breather hose.
4) Remove airbox lid and airbox middle section using your long philips-head screwdriver, being careful to not lose the airbox screws.
5) Remove the rear cylinder end of the vacuum hose (circled in red below) that links the vacuum ports of the two TBs together. This is called the Bypass Hose:
6) Attach a 185mm length of regular 8mm fuel hose to the vacuum port of the rear TB (important to use this length and width of hose so that it matches the bypass hose and thus sustains vaccuum in the same way), then connect your CarbTune hoses to the two hoses you know have connected to each of your TB's vacuum ports:
7) Hang your Carbtune off your handle bars with a cable tie so that it's suspended without being at an angle which might affect the readings:
8) Fire the bike up and compare the levels of the two TBs on the CarbTune. Here is how my CarbTune looked - as you can see my TBs were not synced:
9) If the levels on the CarbTune are different, locate the TB synchronization adjustment screw for your bike. For 07 and older bikes the screw looks like this - circled in red from top and left-hand side views:
10) Loosen the TB synchronization adjustment screw (TBSS) just enough to be able to move the rear butterfly valve arm a little with a light tap of the screwdriver.
11) Make fine adjustments using light taps, preferably with the CarbTune hanging in front of you to make sure you're causing the two levels to converge on being equal. Eventually you should end up with something like this:
12) Once they're equal, tighten the TBSS, taking care to not allow the torque of the screw to shift the synchronization.
Now the TBs are synchronized at idle. You think, "Great! We're done… Right?" Nope! The two cylinders actually have slightly different vacuums at different RPMs, which means that synchronized at idle doesn't mean it's synchronized at the RPMs that probably matter more to you. Blip the throttle and watch the vacuum levels drift.
So, now you'll probably want to repeat the last three steps while blipping the throttle (tighten the TBSS before blipping the throttle!), making minor adjustments away from idle sync, towards your mid/high RPM sync. The problem is, you don't want to make idle unstable and also make the bike hard to start. So, I usually adjust towards the higher RPM sync until idle becomes a bit unstable, and then adjust back a titch. Once you're satisfied, put her back together. You're done!
Very good job!!!
Excellent write up. The steps are perfect and the photos are awesome.
i've never seen one used so i'm self taught using the carbtune.
i have a KTM950SER running 38 FCR's but doing the carb sync is basically the same.
i see your idle is at 14cm
just curious is that important ? as mine is at around 26-28cm. if i go lower my idle gets bad.
.
CHEERS: VEETWO
nice job! awesome pic's!
My Idle isn't set right yet, I'm still investigating the problem and maybe that's the cause - I don't know, I'm certainly no expert lol. I have a TPS min of 45 but I have to have the throttle position at around 8% to be able to idle at 2200 revs which apparently is not right - should be around 4% I think.
btw all credit for this how-to goes to XYAsylum, SXVINWA and Allen Noland - I just added some pics to their instructions
The number will be different for different bikes, especially models.
You want to focus on getting them even, at idle and as you go up the RPM range. They'll fluctuate and even cross, so use your best judgement as to where you want the final balance setting at.
anyone want to do a write up on how to do a valve check?
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