How-To proceedures

[amauri]

Since we already have many procedures posted thought this forum, we might as well organize them in one easy to find place.

I've avoided doing how-to's in the past because IMO it gives people with no wrenching skills a false sense that anyone can do it.
Proceed at your own risk and use common sense, you know best what your mechanical limitations are.

I also want to make it clear that whomever wants to post a procedure must take full responsibility for it’s accuracy.
Test it before posting and make damn sure you know what you are talking about.

Your write-up should be easy to understand, with proper spelling, sentence composition and grammar. Photos should be sized to 800x600 and sharply focused.

As people read your procedure, they may have questions or suggestions.
I would like those to be handled via PM.
If you have something to add or clarify, please contact the author off line and work it out.

Please do not post replies unless you have an actual procedure with details on a how-to.

That’s all I can think of, let’s give it a try and see if we can make it work.

[antbreon]

DERESTRICTION

so you just purchased a new sxv ...got up the next morning took it out all happy and took off for work and ...it was omg slow ... a vespa scooter passed you ...it had a whoping top speed of 63 ...WTF ??? this thing won pikes peak???? feeling a little upset???GOT A LITTLE BUYERS REMORSE ... dont worry ...it just needs to be derestricted ...the dealer can do it all for you ..but i was broke from purchaseing the bike... so i did the physical stuff and just had them flash the computer ..and saved some loot ..

stock you couldnt pull a wheelie if your life depended on it ..derestricted the front tire will have an adversion to the pavement in the first 3 gears..

everything on this post is in the forum somwhere .....I searched all over this forum for 3 weeks to find this information ...i was blurry eyed and took tons of my time to find it all..... THE GUYS HERE CAN TELL YOU ANYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW ...this is an easy to find quick acess information thread good for all the newbees...

after removing the physical stuff absolutely do not ride it until you take it to a dealer and get the proper map loaded ...you will damage the engine

there is a throttle stop...it only alows the throttle body to open about a light 1/8 inch... you need to remove the tank ...and the top and middle sections of the airbox.. i needed to make a special tool ....a reg 6 inch # 2 screwdriver with the handle cut off to the size of a stubby handle ....to get to the front screw on the right side of the airbox...needed the reach but there wasnt enough room for the handle ...the stop is located on the front of the front throttle body likage ... it is about 1/2 inch around silver on the inside of the linkage you can get to it from the left side w a long screwdriver .. it has a plastic cap over a straight slot screw ...i just smacked the cap w a screwdriver and broke the cap out it is dificult to see let alone get to make sure the pieces dont get into the motor ...then unscrew remove it and that is done..this isnt it but it looks just like it

[IMG][/IMG]
there is also a restrictor in the top of the airbox it is in the front of the top.... it is just behind what reminded me of horns.... it is s pop out it is about 1/8th away letting very little air in ...push it with your thumbs remove it the very bottom needs to be epoxied back in it pushes the front of the air filter down if you are using a OEM type filter..reassemble the boX ...twin air filter ..OR A PIPERCROSS the whoe top of the air box is replaced and is preferred they arnt listed in the us catalogs the dealers have.... you can get it on the store here ...part # anyone ...

xv asylum has a good article on synching the bodies ect ..if you feel inclined ill trust the italian to start if it isnt right then i look there .. the whole site has alot of good tips

[IMG][/IMG]

the corks in the exhaust.... somemodels have a cat in the exhaust that needs to be removed you neeed to replace the pipe with a no cat version ...if you arnt replacing it with a silmoto or some other full exhaust ...you need to remove the headder pipes from the motor just as the pipes enter the mufler there are 2 cones ..i dont think i could get my pinky in them .. you will need to take a die grinder and cut the tacks ...a dremil tool will aslo work ...it you feel enthusiastic you can clean up the welds on the inside of the head pipes just inside the flanges as the gases come out of the motor... NOTE::: weld it is real hard it will just chew up and spit a cheap bit back at you ... so get a good one.

the spark arestor... well they dont really inhibit the gases enough to worry about and you have fire roads to ride ...you need them in to ride them the park ranger love to bust you... so i would leave them ..you also have a smog pump or air recirculating stuff the little 1/4 inch tubes coming off the head pipes ...i cut mine off and welded them up with stainless but that is not practical for everyone,, just go to the local automotive store and get rubber vaccum caps and cap them ..the tubes are long enough the heat doesnt travel up ... far enough they wont melt.... it was a rubber hose you took off ..remove the pump from under the black cover on the right side as well the charcole canister from the left there is a small hose that went into the airbox i just pluged it ..
.[IMG][/IMG]
spark arrestors are just inside the exhaust tips

that is what you can do ..now that you are done with the hardware.... do not ride it .... you may hurt it ..you need to update the software

now you need to get the new map in....e axone?? is one system... my dealer now used a navagator system ...or you can get a tune boy but for 500 !!! well ill pay the dealer for a half hour to flash the comp ...if i were racing well it would be different ..
very important they must recalibrate the throttle position sensor to see the 100% you now have or it will not run properly ...[/COLOR]maps are updated all the time check with your dealer to see which one is right for your bike ..as of now 15020 is the current SXV stock exhaust derestricted map ...if you have a pipe ect it may be different .....the 15s are for the svx 550.....xv asylum had a list ...but it is outdated ....
1521 is the vdb map and people are playing with 1530 do a search to see what they say ..

tips

i didnt like the orange side panels ...i skuffed them and painted them with the platic paint from rustolium ..then cut black vinel and covered the flat that is exposed and most likey to get scratched ..the vinel was leftover from my dirt bike number plates ....black side panels are like 10 bucks each ..ap9100090 and ap9100091...you can get them from your local dealer or the af1 store attached to this forum .....

[IMG][/IMG]

want a black fender as well ,,,note.... the difference between the street version and the supermoto is ....the super moto is only the front half ..the rear section catches the air and contributes to head shake ... i hit 115 and it was trying.... weight back and get a good grip suspesion adjustmet nessisary....search threads ..she is still stock and i weigh 160
part # for a black supermoto fender 853683 it is like 45 bucks... for the short i cut the back off mine mine and cut about 2 inches off the front matched the shape to stock sanded the edges w 600 and look fine just isnt black .

..[IMG][/IMG]

us 12 liter tank they didnt remake the sub frame they used spacers ...i JB welded mine to the sub frame so i dont need to chase them around the shop

26 psi seems to be a good starting air pressure for a supermoto bike ...at 304 lbs full of gas and ready to ride ..we dont have the weight to heat up the tires like a big sport bikes

i reeled the blinkers in in the rear they look similar to stock but are smaller they are led ...they just seemed to stay on and not blink i needed to wire in a resistor use a 10 ohm run it between the positive and negative paralell along with the blinker
[IMG][/IMG]
this is it all tightened up
[IMG][/IMG]

the front... whatever hand guards you buy make sure they have metal in them or you will be replacing them along with other parts ..the first time you lowside ....and accerbis has a good mount that bolt to the upper tripple clamp rather than trying to clamp on a tapered bar ..expensive but worth it ...they say the blinker need to be 10 inches apart here that would work ....not sure my set up adhears to the law...but then neither does half the things i do when i am riding it ...
[IMG][/IMG]

honest officer they are stock the italians do things different

the stock tail is lanky at the least... i just nipped mine sanded it smooth and bolted the tag part up next to the tail light ...then drilled small holes in the plastic where the blinkers attach and stuck white leds.... i bought at the auto parts store ..in the holes from the inside for flush tag light real bright over the sides not so in the middle ...it makes it kinda hard to read at night.... but it is well lit... i am ..well ok with that kinda hard to read thing ...it has a light another option is the tidy tail ..or the oem eruo off road tail ..i did that eventually but it was alot of work for the tag tidy tail look fine and is alot less work
[IMG][/IMG]
i also recessed led lights for a tag light need to look one isnt working


[IMG][/IMG]

sliders small hard skateboard wheels 3 ft of stainless all thread and some washers if you take your dremel and open the inside of one up it will cap the rear axle ..and i even got them in italian colors and have less than 45 in both axles ..i have sms on my wr these look just as good and probabley work better will keep that swing arm off the pavement

the front
[IMG][/IMG]

the 3rd time the side stand hits you in the shin you will want this mod
[IMG][/IMG]
just use a dremil to cut the pin and it will work like a normal side stand but you dont have a netral safety switch so dont pull off with it down or you may go down

[antbreon]

OIL CHANGE

YOU GOT A LITTLE OIL CAN ON YOUR DASH??? ITS TIME TO CHANGE IT

this is iries post on what to do ..http://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/s...26&postcount=5

tells you every step... it is a good post
BUT I WAS ....REMOVE THE WHAT....... ITS WHERE... HUH ???

truthfully i just am also blind and couldnt see in the micro pics in the manual... so AFTER BREAKING OUT THE MAGNIFYING GLASS i took pics of where everything is... again for the newbees because the first thing i did was remove what looks like a drain bolt and it wasnt ....it was the FCV valve ...this one is a little different ..hope the pics help someone

FYI
GET YOUR OIL NOW !!! IT TAKES 10 -60
IT IS HARD TO FIND YOU WILL NOT BE ABLE TO JUST WALK INTO A MC SHOP AND PICK IT UP
YOU CAN ORDER IT FROM THE AF1 STORE ATTATCHED TO THIS FORUM

BC 61 HERE SAID BMW CAR AND MC DEALERS HAVE 10 60

THESE ARE THE TORQUE SPECS FOR THINGS ESPECIALLY IMPORTANT ON THE FCV VALVE
Oil drain plug (below shift lever) - 13.28 ftlb (18 Nm)
FCV / PRV - 14.75 ftlb (20 Nm)
oil filter cover - 18.44 ftlb (25 Nm)
gearbox drain plug - 13.28 ftlb (18 Nm)
gearbox level check bolt - 7.23 ftlb (9.8 Nm)

OIL DRAIN


OIL FILTER IS BEHIND HERE SPRING BEHING CAREFUL REMOVING


SUMP TANK DRAIN AND SITE TUBE IS JUST ABOVE


OIL FILL



SITE TUBE...DO NOT OVER FILL 1250 CC CHECK STANDING BIKE UPRIGHT ..RUN IT FOR 2-5 MIN SHUT IT OFF AND CHECK ..AT SIGHT TUBE ..IF YOU GET TO MUCH IN ....IT WILL END UP IN YOU AIR BOX... THEN BELLY PAN ...THEN REAR TIRE ..AND YOU WILL END UP ON YOUR BUTT...DONT ASK HOW I KNOW...






FCV VALVE ...LONG THIN SPRING CAME OUT WITH BOLT ...BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO OVER TORQUE ..WILL STRIP ..AND VERY DIFICULT TO FIX..USEA TORQUE WRENCH..
CLEAN LOOK FOR SCORES REPALCE IF NESSISARY...IT MAY NOT COME OUT RIGHT AWAY ..IT WILL USUALLY COME OUT ONCE THE OIL STARTS TO DRAIN ..AND JUST FALL INTO THE PAN ..OR YOU MAY NED TO WIGLE IT A LITTLE USING THE BOLT ..


GEAR BOX DRAIN



GEAR BOX WEEP HOLE YOU MUST REMOVE THE REAR BRAKE ARM TO ACESS
do not fill gear oil with this removed ...use it to check level 5 to 10 min after adding 550 cc to the gear box fill hole ..stand bike upright to check it ...takes a while to pass through a little hole in the case and get to the gear box.. especially if the oil is thick...75/90 is recomended in the manual some run different .. many threads on this but that is what is reccomended....



GEAR BOX FILL ...ANOTHER REASON TO GET AN AFTERMARKET EXHAUST ADD 550 CC OF GEAR OIL



LAST THING GO HERE
http://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/s...d.php?t=144952
AND RESET THE LITTLE OIL CAN .ON YOUR DASH

[antbreon]

catch can a couple of different ideas

http://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/s...ighlight=catch

http://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/s...d.php?t=186594

[antbreon]

stock fork tuning
http://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/s...d.php?t=177054

[SXVINWA]

Many of you may have noticed or read that European and VDB models came from the factory with the ability to switch between two maps in the ECU while riding but do not have the ability on your bike. Well, you can have the ability, if you want it! My first post to this forum was instructions telling how to do the modification. I have been asked to re-post that information in this thread, so I have updated the origional PDF document with some additional information that I have gotten since the first posting.

The information has been compiled into a PDF document located at the following URL which will make it easier for those of you that may want to download or print the procedure:


sxv map switch upgrade rev 1

Please PM me if you find mistakes or have additional information that may improve the content.

[SXVINWA]

NOTE: This list is based upon the schematic diagram and fuse numbers are as they are numbered on the fuse box cover NOT the fuse numbers located on the fuse box picture in the manual. Also be aware that there are discrepancies between the schematic and the fuse list in the manual. I have found the schematic to be accurate so far and the fuse list to be incorrect. Please send a PM if you find something incorrect in the following information and I will try to correct as needed.

Symptoms you can expect to see if one of them fails and possible causes.

USA / CANADA 2008 models

MAIN - 30A – Charging circuit protection for regulator output to the battery.

Symptom of failure - battery not charging.

Possible cause – wiring fault, stator failure or regulator failure.

#1 - 7.5A – Power for ECU, ECR relay and LIGHT relay. Also provides the power for the speed sensor.

Symptoms of failure – engine will not crank, ECR relay will not pick up, fuel pump does not cycle when turning key on. Tail and parking lights will come on, turn signals work, display seems to function normally.

Possible cause – wiring fault, faulty ECR relay coil if fails with key off, faulty LIGHT relay, ECU or speed sensor if fails when turning key on. Speed sensor cable is the most common and is caused by a rub on the wheel or rotor due to incorrect routing.

#2 - 7.5A – Display power, horn power, scroll button power, low fuel indicator power, turn signal power, tail and parking light power.

Symptoms of failure – tail and parking lights do not come on, turn signals will not work, display will not come on, horn will not work. Engine will run.

Possible cause – wiring fault, switch fault, or display faulty.

#3 - 15A – Headlight and brake light power.

Symptoms of failure – engine will run but both headlight and brake light will not come on. High beam indicator will not come on.

Possible cause – wiring fault, switch fault or light fault.

#4 - 15A – Feeder fuse for ECR relay contacts (supplies power to F5-F7).

Symptoms of failure – ECR relay will pick up, engine will not crank, fuel pump does not cycle when key turned on. Tail and parking lights will come on, turn signals work, display seems to function normally.

Possible cause – wiring fault, bad contacts inside ECR relay.

#5 - 7.5A – Injector and ignition coil power.

Symptoms of failure – engine will crank but there is no spark or fuel delivery. Fuel pump will cycle when key is turned on. Tail and parking lights will come on, turn signals work, display seems to function normally.

Possible cause – wiring fault, faulty injector or faulty ignition coil.

#6 - 7.5A – Cooling fan power.

Symptom of fault – engine overheating and fan does not come on.

Possible cause – wiring fault, fan faulty or possibly water in the fan connector.

#7 - 5A - Fuel pump power.

Symptoms of fault – fuel pump does not cycle when key is turned on, engine will crank. Tail and parking lights will come on, turn signals work, display seems to function normally.

Possible cause – wiring fault or fuel pump faulty.

[amauri]

Link to good thread with discussions on how to identify/remedy head gasket leaks.

http://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/s...d.php?t=187484

[Allen Noland]

Edited from orignal post http://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/s...d.php?t=179014

I have had several e-mails and PMs wanting to know how we add an oil pressure light when removing the head light and instrument panel to mount a number plate. The easiest way to do this is to pick up power for the light at the 12V switched power supply to the panel, and use the existing oil pressure switch to make the ground contact. I usually use a 12V 1/2" red indicator light that is available at almost any auto parts store for about $5. You can mount one indicator light with a rubber insulated cable clamp or make a bracket that holds two or more . If you want a little more "bling" than the light and clamp setup, you can drill a small hole in the triple clamp and mount one of those LED licence plate bolts in it, or use the LED bolt to hold the number plate on.

The enduro kit comes with a plug in "jumper" connection. Once installed, it completes the circuits the same way that the key switch does in the "on" position. The reason the key switch has to be removed is because it blocks the number plate mounting tab in the center of the top triple clamp. I just moved the switch to the right for clearance. The key switch is now held on by one bolt instead of two. I used some blue loctite on the bolt and even under severe off-road conditions, haven't had any problems with the switch moving out of place

Oil pressure light and key switch with number plate


Oil pressure light, low fuel light and key switch with number plate


Wiring Diagram


LED Bolts

[duc slayer]

a GREAT quick reference site

http://xvasylum.wikidot.com/

[Mooseknuckles]

Starting the bike in gear should be avoided. Starter damage may result.

[Allen Noland]

NOTE: The cam chain tensioners must be installed before setting the cam timing.

1. Set the front piston to TDC and lock the crank in position with the timing pin. (Tip: Use a paint pen to put a mark the pinion gear pointing to the center of the front cylinder)

2. Insert the 6mm pin through the front cam with the intake lobes facing forward and the decompression lever above the roller on the exhaust rocker arm. Torque the front cam gear retaining screw to 35 Nm. (The front cam gear retaining screw is left-hand thread)

3. Rotate the crank pinion nut clockwise 283 degrees to set the rear piston on TDC and lock it in position with the timing pin. (The paint mark should now be pointing to the center of the rear cylinder.)

4. Insert the 6mm pin through the rear cam with all the lobes facing forward and the decompression lever below the roller on the exhaust rocker arm. Torque the rear cam gear retaining screw to 35 Nm.

[Allen Noland]

SXV 450
14009 - mapping for Termignoni exhausts (6 seconds)
14010 - mapping for Silmotor exhausts (6 seconds)
14018 - latest update of the standard mapping
14019 - latest update of the standard US mapping
14020 - latest update of the standard Japan mapping
14021 - latest update of the mapping for Silmotor exhausts
14022 - MY 2007 Van Den Bosch mapping
14023 - mapping for Akrapovic exhausts
14024 - latest update of the standard Street Legal US mapping
14025 - latest update of the Euro 3 MY 2008 standard mapping
14027 - MY 2008 Van Den Bosch mapping
14028 - Full Power mapping MY 2008 "double mapping"
14032 - MY 2008 USA Full Power mapping
14033 - latest standard mapping update with starter kit
14035 - latest standard USA mapping update with starter kit
14036 - mapping for Arrow exhausts with starter kit
14037 - mapping for Silmoto exhausts with starter kit
14038 - mapping for Akrapovic exhausts with starter kit

RXV 450
24004 - Mapping for Termignoni exhausts
24005 - Mapping for Silmotor exhausts
24009 - mapping for Termignoni exhausts (6 seconds)
24010 - mapping for Silmotor exhausts (6 seconds)
24013 - mapping for Akrapovic exhausts (6 seconds)
24020 - latest update of the standard mapping
24021 - latest update of the standard US mapping
24022 - latest update of the standard Japan mapping
24023 - latest update of the mapping for Akrapovic exhausts
24026 - Mapping for Arrow exhausts
24027 - latest update of the standard Street Legal US mapping
24028 - latest update of the Euro 3 MY 2008 standard mapping
24029 - MY 2008 Merriman mapping
24032 - MY 2008 USA Full Power mapping
24033 - standard mapping update with starter kit
24034 - standard USA mapping update with starter kit
24035 - mapping for Akrapovic exhausts with starter kit
24036 - mapping for Arrow exhausts with starter kit

RXV 450 MY2009
24100 - Euro 3 standard mapping
24101 - Full Power mapping for Arrow exhausts
24102 - latest update of the standard mapping
24103 - Full Power mapping for Arrow exhausts
24104 - Full Power mapping for Arrow exhausts
24105 - latest update of the Full Power mapping for Arrow exhausts

SXV 550
15008 - mapping for Termignoni exhausts (6 seconds)
15009 - mapping for Silmotor exhausts (6 seconds)
15017 - latest update of the standard mapping
15018 - latest update of the standard US mapping
15019 - latest update of the standard Japan mapping
15020 - latest update of the mapping for Silmotor exhausts
15021 - MY 2007 Van Den Bosch mapping
15022 - mapping for Akrapovic exhausts
15023 - latest update of the standard Street Legal US mapping
15024 - latest update of the Euro 3 MY 2008 standard mapping
15026 - Van Den Bosch MY 2008 map (assymetrical dual map)
15027 - Full Power mapping MY 2008 "double mapping"
15030 - MY 2008 USA Full Power mapping
15031 - standard mapping update with starter kit
15032 - standard USA mapping update with starter kit
15033 - mapping for Arrow exhausts with starter kit
15034 - mapping for Silmotor exhausts with starter kit
15035 - mapping for Akrapovic exhausts with starter kit

RXV 550
25007 - mapping for Silmotor exhausts (6 seconds)
25010 - mapping for Akrapovic exhausts (6 seconds)
25016 - latest update of the standard mapping
25017 - latest update of the standard US mapping
25018 - latest update of the standard Japan mapping
25019 - latest update of the mapping for Akrapovic exhausts
25022 - Mapping for Arrow exhausts
25023 - latest update of the standard Street Legal US mapping
25024 - latest update of the Euro 3 MY 2008 standard mapping
25028 - MY 2008 USA Full Power mapping
25029 - standard mapping update with starter kit
25030 - standard USA mapping update with starter kit
25031 - mapping for Akrapovic exhausts with starter kit
25032 - mapping for Arrow exhausts with starter kit

RXV 550 MY '09
25100 - Euro 3 standard mapping
25101 - Full Power mapping for Arrow exhausts
25102 - latest update of the standard mapping
25103 - Full Power mapping for Arrow exhausts
25104 - Full Power mapping for Arrow exhausts
25105 - latest update of the Full Power mapping for Arrow exhausts

MXV 450
34102 - BIG BANG
34105 - SCREAMER

NOTES
1) Maps that say "with starter kit" are for the '06-'07 model year bikes that have had the automatic air valve kit installed. They will not work on bikes without the starter kit.

2) All "Standard US", "Street Legal US" and "Standard USA" maps are the restricted versions.

3) RXV 450-550 MY '09 maps are only for bikes with the newer ECUG-2 control unit (ECU). '09 USA RXVs have the ECUC-1 control unit, and use the same maps as the previous model years.

.

[VEETWOTLS]

OIL TANK SIGHT TUBE MOD:

ever since i have posted up my bike pics. i have had many inquiring about my mod & fitting:
all this was purchased off ebay.



*cal550 quick cheep mod is a copper pipe bent up & bronzed in a banjo http://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/s...d.php?t=175538 *



** i'm going for a professional look using ano fittings as well as function**


store for the fittings: (you may need to ask for what you need)
http://stores.shop.ebay.com.au/Boneh...__W0QQ_armrsZ1



MOD:
1 x 12mm SHORT banjo to 4AN
(the normal banjo bolt that comes with this kit are TOO SHORT you only get 0.5mm thread to play with)


1 x 12mm x 1.5 thread pitch x 25mm to 30mm LONG SHANK banjo bolt.
drill the weep hole on the side of the banjo bolt larger for better oil flow.


1 x 4 AN 90 Degree Push-Fit Fuel Fitting Hose End
(190 Degree 4AN is too wide & hits the radiator)


1 x MTR of clear hose to suit 5.1mm ID (it's not under pressure)
(i used clear tube they use in a bar for beer lines)


***block off the old center fitting on the tank***




clic on the pic for BIG:






.

[rsvfrrider]

Just watch the video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bLXKS1-9vHU