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Thread: DIY: Shiver Valve Check, Illustrated

  1. #61
    apriliaforum expert Mardoch's Avatar
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    No problem.
    2011 Dorsoduro 750 - Black

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  2. #62
    apriliaforum Junkie rocketnz's Avatar
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    interesting wondered how this worked

  3. #63
    apriliaforum expert BitSar's Avatar
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    I just found this post...

    @ OP - excellent information....thank you
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  4. #64
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    Sorry to bump this, but I'm in the middle of valve clearance check and looking for some clarification. When checking the clearances, does the cylinder have to be at top dead center, or just at any point where the cam is not pressing down on the valve? I Got everything apart and measured just the rear cylinder exhaust valves and they are way off, so i think I'm doing something wrong.

    The engine was not at TDC but cam is off the valve, and they were reading between .05 and .10mm (should be .16-.23). I'll try again tonight at TDC but looking for some clarification in the meantime. For those of you that did have to adjust, how far off were they?

  5. #65
    apriliaforum Junkie JetdocX's Avatar
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    Measure the clearance when the lobes are facing 180 degrees away from the buckets. That's cam lobe up. Also double check your math unless you are using metric feeler gages. Measure twice. Saves rework later.

    Mine has not needed shimming. Checked twice in the last 24,000 miles.
    From parts unknown.

  6. #66
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    Sorry, a couple dumb questions.

    Quote Originally Posted by petemoss View Post
    ... You want the cams to wind up in the position shown below - note the cam lobe pointed away from the top of the valve (yellow circle). There is a second cam under the cover that can be checked through the window (yellow arrow).

    The cams shown with yelow circle and arrow in the rear cylinder picture above - are they both intake? Are they the right intake and left intake respectively (i.e. yellow circle is right and yellow arrow is left)?

    Are the red circle & arrow I added to Pete's picture, as shown below, both exhaust cams (right & left respectively)?


    Should both the Intake (left & right) be checked to be within specs? Intake: 0.11 - 0.18 mm (0.0043 - 0.0071 in).
    And both the exhaust be checked? Exhaust: 0.16 - 0.23 mm (0.0063 - 0.0091 in)

    And, for the front cylinder picture below (my edit of Pete's original), pretty much the same thing?
    Yellow Circle -> Right intake; Yellow arrow -> Left intake. Spec: 0.11 - 0.18 mm (0.0043 - 0.0071 in)
    Red Circle -> Right Exhaust; Red arrow -> Left exhaust. Spec: 0.16 - 0.23 mm (0.0063 - 0.0091 in)


    Thanks!
    Last edited by venk25; 07-21-2012 at 01:44 PM.

  7. #67
    apriliaforum newb Dierick's Avatar
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    @venk25,

    the side of the outlet is the also the side of the outlet of the valves.
    Aprilia SL Shiver 750 / Alfa Romeo 147 1.9JTD 8v Squadra

  8. #68
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    I am wanting to remove the evap canister as well. Where did you route the replacement tubing? Did you route it from the 90 degree union around to the throttle body?

  9. #69
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    Quote Originally Posted by phillywv View Post
    I am wanting to remove the evap canister as well. Where did you route the replacement tubing? Did you route it from the 90 degree union around to the throttle body?
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xHHCnEi0mP4

  10. #70
    apriliaforum prov-nov
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    Hey, I got .229 mm on the exhaust , should I do something ? thanks !

  11. #71
    apriliaforum expert Frodo's Avatar
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    That's on the limit of 0.23mm. Given that clearances tend to reduce over time and a little too much clearance is better than a little too little, I'd be inclined to leave it.
    Frodo
    2010 Shiver GT
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  12. #72
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    Bump! Can someone please tell me the position of intake and exhaust that venk indicated above right or not?

  13. #73
    apriliaforum expert Frodo's Avatar
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    The exhaust cam is closest to the exhaust pipe and the intake cam is closest to intake manifold.
    These are on the opposite positions in the front and rear cylinders. On the front cylinder head, the exhaust cam is on the front; on the back, it is on the back.
    Each cam operates two valves, either both exhaust or both intake.

    In Venk's last photo of the front cylinder (with the radiator), he has the description correct. Red is exhaust, yellow is intake.
    I can't be confident with the photo of the rear cylinder as it is not clear which is the front of the bike. I think he has it correct.
    Frodo
    2010 Shiver GT
    New Zealand

  14. #74
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    Excellent, Frodo.

    Now i got it, very simple,"the exhaust cam is closest to the exhaust pipe" and th other ome is intake cam.

    Please help me one more things:

    Now my tools are on the way to my home (maybe it takes 2 weeks). And i have to figure out somethings before doing the valve adjustment with the mechanic:
    1. "Before doing the valve clearances you have to put the vam on Top dead center (what it means), the easiest way is shift to 6 gear and rotate the rear wheel forward" (till when??)

    2. "You have to lock 1 cam and measure the other"

    Why i have to lock opposite camshaft? Why not the camshaft which i measure?

    3. Using timing pin:
    as i understand: timing pin will lock the camshaft at right position then take off the cover and camshaft to do the shim adjustment? after that, use timing pin to put the camshaft in right position.
    But how to do with 2 camshaft? And how to put the cam chain in without moving the camshaft.

    i've read all your comment but something i can not understand even i read them many times.

    Much appreciate and have a nice weekend,
    Phan.

  15. #75
    apriliaforum expert Frodo's Avatar
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    1. "Before doing the valve clearances you have to put the vam on Top dead center (what it means), the easiest way is shift to 6 gear and rotate the rear wheel forward" (till when??)

    * Top dead centre (TDC) is when the piston is at the top of the stroke. This occurs once every 360 degree rotation and once every 720 degrees it will be at TDC on the compression stroke. At this point the valves will be closed and so clearances can be measured.
    The motor can be rotated using the rear wheel in top gear or using a socket on the end of the crankshaft after removing the plastic plug on the left hand side of the engine.
    Remove the spark plugs before trying to rotate the engine.
    Rotate it until it is TDC. There will be a timing mark inside the second small plastic plug on the left side of the crankcase. I did it by feel and sight as you can feel the piston going up and see the cams rotate closing both valves. Inserting the cam pin conforms TDC.

    2. "You have to lock 1 cam and measure the other"
    Why i have to lock opposite camshaft? Why not the camshaft which i measure?

    * You must lock the remaining cam when you remove the other cam to change the shims. Otherwise you will lose cam timing.
    You do not need to do this when measuring clearance. The advantage is that you can be sure that the motor is at TDC when the pin fits down the hole.

    3. Using timing pin:
    as i understand: timing pin will lock the camshaft at right position then take off the cover and camshaft to do the shim adjustment? after that, use timing pin to put the camshaft in right position.
    But how to do with 2 camshaft? And how to put the cam chain in without moving the camshaft.

    * When both cams are fixed in place, the cams will only move when the engine moves. However, when you remove one camshaft to change the shims, you must lock the other camshaft using the pin to stop it moving and losing cam timing. I found that I needed to cable tie the remaining camshaft on the front cylinder because the angle of the cylinder meant that there was a risk of the remaining cam rolling forward, even with the pin in place. I posted a photo, I think in this thread.
    Someone had the good suggestion to use a second pin to help guide the second camshaft when put it back in place.

    i've read all your comment but something i can not understand even i read them many times.

    * Hope this helps and good luck.
    Frodo
    2010 Shiver GT
    New Zealand

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