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Thread: DIY: Shiver Valve Check, Illustrated

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  1. #1
    apriliaforum newb petemoss's Avatar
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    DIY: Shiver Valve Check, Illustrated

    I bought my shiver 2 weeks ago and already have over 1500 miles on it. I hadnt yet checked the valves, and given that I wanted to learn more about the engine, i decided to dive in. I havent seen a close up description posted anywhere, and the pictures in the service manual are small, so I thought I would take photos to share what I find.

    Tools needed:
    4mm allen wrench to remove all the fairing pieces
    2.5mm allen wrench to remove battery holder
    5mm allen wrench for valve cover bolts
    8mm and 10mm socket wrenches
    8mm and 10mm standard wrenches
    philips screwdriver
    set of valve clearance measurement shims
    rubber mallet to loosen valve cover
    probably something else I forgot

    Valve Clearances:
    My Aprilia Shiver service manual lists the clearance ranges as
    Intake :: 0.11 - 0.18 mm (0.0043 - 0.0071 in)
    Exhaust :: 0.16 - 0.23 mm (0.0063 - 0.0091 in)

    It is essential you do this check on a cold engine. Let the bike sit over night, or about 8 hours, after riding to ensure it is cool enough.

    Checking the valves is easy, but adjustments require removing parts that could allow the timing to shift and make the bike to be unrideable. I recommend you consult the Aprilia service manual for more details. Hopefully this guide will make visualizing the task easier.

    To get to the valves, you need to remove quite a few parts. Go slow and take it easy, and you will be able to accomplish this in a few hours. Between doing the work, taking pictures, taking breaks, and helping my wife work on her SV, this whole job took me about 5 hours. My valves turned out to be in spec, so I didnt need to remove the cam shafts or adjust the valve clearances. That would have added more time.

    First things you gotta remove are the fairing pieces from the fuel tank. There is one piece around the ignition switch, and three pieces on both the left and right side of the tank. Be sure to also remove the bolts to the left and right of the ignition that hold the front of the tank down (shown with yellow arrows).





    Once you have the fairing pieces off and the front of the tank loose, you can pivot the tank up. If you can, remove the braided drain hose from under the left rear part of the tank. I didnt do that and had some tension pulling the tank up until the hose released. The nylon braided hose is attached to a tray under the fuel valve that collects drips of fuel and routes it around the hot engine.




    This shows the fuel hose disconnected from the red fuel valve. The collection tray is laying below, on the cylinder head cover.




    After the hoses have been disconnected, unbolt the tank and remove it. You will then see the top of the rear cylinder head between the battery and airbox.




    Remove the four head cover bolts, and the spark plug boot. Then remove the bracket holding the battery in place and slide the battery up to provide clearance for the head cover to come off. Below is what you will see under the cover.




    The valves are covered with a pair of cam shafts, each with a gear attached to one end. The shafts are turned by the action of a third gear that is powered by the cam chain. The gears and cam chain are visible towards the bottom of the photo above.

    At this point, I checked the valves on the rear cylinder. To check the valve clearance, you need to get the cam lobe off of the top of the valve so that it isnt compressed. The easiest way to do this is to shift the bike into 6th gear and rotate the rear wheel while up on a rear stand. It is even easier to turn the wheel if you remove the spark plugs. I rotated the rear wheel forward, as that is the way the engine turns. A mechanical engineer buddy says it is OK to turn it in reverse too, but I didnt do that. When you turn the wheel it will turn the cams. You want the cams to wind up in the position shown below - note the cam lobe pointed away from the top of the valve (yellow circle). There is a second cam under the cover that can be checked through the window (yellow arrow).




    In case you havent checked valves before, this is the tool you need. It has many shims bound together, each of a different measured thickness. The ranges you will need are listed at the top of this how-to. The measuring procedure is to put a shim between the cam lobe and the top of the valve. The shim that fits with ust a slight drag is the correct measurement. If a shim doesnt fit or fits very tightly, then it is too big, so dont try to force them into the gap. If it gives no resistance, then it is too loose, and the next largest size shim should be tested.




    While doing this work, be sure to do the other inspections. My coolant level was too low, so I topped it off with a 50/50 mix of anti-freeze and distilled water. Dont trust the people who set up your bike - verify levels yourself!




    To access the front cylinder, you will need to get the radiator out of the way. Remove the two bolts holding it on to the frame and horn bracket. Also remove the bolt holding the reservoir to the frame, and slide the radiator off the peg on the right side of the bike. You will then have slack for it to dangle down out of the way of the head cover.




    Left side view. You can see where I have removed the evap canister and bracket. Good riddance!




    View of right side. the dangling reservoir kinda blocks the view, but provides the necessary clearance.




    After removing the 4 head cover bolts and the spark plug boot, you can remove the head cover. If it is stuck on (likely), you can tap it with a rubber mallet to loosen it. NEVER use a metal hammer to loosen it, as you would likely crack or damage the head cover or cylinder body.



    Again, with the bike in 6th gear and up on a rear stand, rotate the rear wheel forward and get the cams rotated off of the valves. Then you can test with the clearance measurement tool like shown below.




    All of my valves were within spec, so I didnt go any further. The only way to adjust the valves is to remove the cam shaft covering the errant valve and replace the shim under the bucket. To remove the cam shafts, you will need to remove the housing covering the shafts, with the opposite shaft pinned in place with a 6mm pin through the gear. Since I did not perform any adjustment, I will leave it to someone else to show the procedure to safely remove the cam shafts. I dont plan to open the heads up again until the 12k mile check. Sorry I couldnt go any further, but if it aint broke, dont fix it!




    While I had everything apart, I added a longer vent hose to the tank to make up for the one i removed while removing the evap canister. To do that, I needed to separate the painted plastic cover from the black plastic tank. Below are pics of the two pieces, for the curious.



    Last edited by petemoss; 06-28-2009 at 11:08 AM. Reason: clarifying wheel rotation language
    01 Bandit 1200
    08 Shiver 750

  2. #2
    apriliaforum Member Shiverdog's Avatar
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    incredibly helpful post! thank you very much for the info
    The road is made clear when viewed from above...

  3. #3
    apriliaforum expert bonehead's Avatar
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    OMG!
    It looks like you are going to do us a whole workshop manual of the highest quality.
    Go for it mate.
    I would even pay you for the pdf version.

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    apriliaforum expert keithc's Avatar
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    Brilliant post mate. Wel done, I will copy this to a file on my computer if you done have any objections (pm me if you do).
    Maybe we should all take your lead and photograph and describe any jobs we do on our bikes.

    Keith C
    1990 GL1500 Goldwing
    2005 Honda CRF250X
    2009 Dorsoduro
    2013 Caponord (from 28/9/13)
    https://www.fuelly.com/driver/mzride...ord?fu=6456444

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    apriliaforum Junkie csl's Avatar
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    Very nice of you to share. Brilliant.

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    apriliaforum Member Guyf's Avatar
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    WOW, thanks! What's your daytime job? Are you a technical writer? Thanks again!

  7. #7
    apriliaforum prov-nov HMarc's Avatar
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    Excellent work, my friend. Particularly the photos, which IMHO are the hardest part to get right (focus, details, etc.).

    BTW -- Pete would probably claim to be a software engineer, and IIRC he just recently completed a PhD in Computer Science. He's a smart sumbitch, after all he did buy a Shiver!



    P.S. I just got the suspension redone on my Shiver and am picking it up today. Details forthcoming...

  8. #8
    apriliaforum newb petemoss's Avatar
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    Thanks everyone! Hope will be helpful to others here. I am no technical writer, but i am a software engineer which involves its own share of technical writing.

    as for using this info, use it however you want. make your own pdf copies if you want. I will try to do other guides as I do more work on the shiver. Perhaps these could be collected into a sticky thread on maintenance, or illustrated guides. Searching for 'DIY' on the forum brings up a few others.

    Also, as a technical addendum, a mechanical engineer buddy assures me that it doesnt matter which way the engine turns. He is probably right. I will try to edit my original post if I can figure out how (forum newb!)
    01 Bandit 1200
    08 Shiver 750

  9. #9
    apriliaforum expert keithc's Avatar
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    Thanks for that Peter, I always ask before I copy anyone elses work. After all you have done al the work so its only fair.

    Keith C
    1990 GL1500 Goldwing
    2005 Honda CRF250X
    2009 Dorsoduro
    2013 Caponord (from 28/9/13)
    https://www.fuelly.com/driver/mzride...ord?fu=6456444

  10. #10
    apriliaforum Junkie Centerline's Avatar
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    Nicely done. That takes a LOT of time for the photo documentation.
    2011 1200 Dorsoduro, 5,550 miles
    World Economy = House of Cards
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  11. #11
    apriliaforum newb
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    Quote Originally Posted by petemoss View Post
    Thanks everyone! Hope will be helpful to others here.
    Thank you very much Petemoss, please, can we keep a link to this in the french forum :

    http://www.shiver750.com/post_p_13548.html#13548

    ?

  12. #12
    apriliaforum expert bonehead's Avatar
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    Anyone got any tips on how to make this into a pdf?

    It is no measure of health to be well adjusted to a profoundly sick society.
    J. Krishnamurti
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    Never confuse who you are with what you do.
    Makka

  13. #13
    apriliaforum expert burty's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bonehead View Post
    Anyone got any tips on how to make this into a pdf?
    Simple. Edit in word and print to a free PDF creator. I can recommend doPDF which I use extensively. http://www.dopdf.com/

    There are others and some compress better than others with documents containing images. (If I can find the review I shall post it).



    Ex-owner: 2007 Shiver, Aprilia screen, Tuono forks and Brembos, Hyperpro Springs F&R, 46T rear sprocket (supersprox), DNA Filter, Akrapovics, Gold wheels, Michelin Pilot Road IIs

  14. #14
    apriliaforum expert bonehead's Avatar
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    Great, thanks.
    I had to drag each picture over from Firefox into the word window but it worked a treat.
    I love modern computing.
    Imagine trying to copy a picture from a web site to a word document ten years ago.
    It would probably have involved about ten dialogue boxes and saves and pastes etc.
    Now just pick it up with the mouse and drag it across
    (On a Mac at least)

    It is no measure of health to be well adjusted to a profoundly sick society.
    J. Krishnamurti
    Zeitgeist

    Never confuse who you are with what you do.
    Makka

  15. #15
    apriliaforum expert cruisinscoot's Avatar
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    I was away from the computer for a few days... good stuff. Thanks Pete.
    2006 Scarabeo 250 "This little giant will give you the independence you want and the Italian design that sets this maxi-scooter apart from the rest of the 250 range. Bellissimo!"-ScooterTrap

    2008 Shiver 750SL "What the Shiver SL 750 brings to the table is unique and striking styling, nimble maneuverability, and an off-the-charts fun-to-ride quotient."-Popular Mechanics

    Bad Thing

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