I Will Be Installing a Different Carb in my Scarabeo (2001) 150

[tomd]

ive noticed that an electric ful pump cures most al o this te vacum petcock is partially at fault to im sure And yous guys making Speed runs the rotax over 58 mph indicated is near 100% duty un anyting at 100% duty and maint costs escalate drasticaly .. These are Small Disp. machines that are made to be basic transpo. start making salt flat runs and pay for the privilage i wont be replying to posts about why my engines blown i diiint do anything Doh... i avgd . about 5-750 miles a wek on a orig. beo 150 for a few years push it over 60 mph if ya want to ..I'll tke your remains as ya trash em

[tomd]

water temps will always be way hi according to our gauges teir actualy very accurate. te ound thing next to fuel pump is the vacum distro. valve basicaly what it does is make the vacum produced in engine instead of being a constant 14 Hg suck this valve is connected in such a way that it makes the vacum bounce or pulse or sound like a fart RRRRRRRRRPPPPPPPPP...the pulses allow the fuel pump to work properly a onstant unbroken vacum would make the pump run incorrectly if you eliminate this nonsense and install a electric carb type elec fuel pump 24$ this ends all o this My 150 was driving me razy on normal temp days it would just run out of fuel at 55 mph pull over whip off fuel hoses dry all over no fuel movin .. the stock pump would like break prime and Poof nada.. I would pulll off a few hoses suck on em get fuel movin ,crank n go till a few miles later got rid of vac pump all problems gone

[tomd]

go to a flat slide carb and gravity feed or elec fuel pump chk card intake hose for smalll crax

[mikrron]

go to a flat slide carb and gravity feed or elec fuel pump chk card intake hose for smalll crax

hi there, i also had a probblem with bogging 150 scarabeo. at first i thought the fault was the fuel filter that i installed but i opened that fuel pump located on the right side under the seat and i saw that the membrane (a transparent plastic) was curved. i flliped it over .. still the same.. i replaced it with another transparent plastic with the same thickness and rigidity and succes . the pump really shoots fuel now ! i am running with the filter on now still no problem like bogging, cut off, high idle ..

be sure tu test the replacement plastic first in gasoline not to melt or dissolve ! then cut it the same shape and mount properly.

hope it helps you as it helped me.

i have a few doubts about oil level and stuff so if smbd reads this and have or know scarabeo 150 scooters please reply so i know i not alone here

[tomd]

es the mikuni Vac fuel pumps Diaphram plates when a lil worn drasticaly cut fuel Vol pumped We use a mini Elec.. Rerouting the line for natural Gravity feed and the lil elec behind er Keeps er right in right handers only reason for pump..

[mikrron]

I`m not a native english speaker but i have an ideea about what you say there

Now cause you answered so quickly and i have read around here that you know this rotax engine pretty well i have some questions.

I bought a 99 scarabeo 150 with 34.000 km, bought a lot of parts for it to make it run as i like, 10g rollers, original belt, original clutch, water thermostat, checked valve clearances + hard cases, tall winshield, hand guards, side standetc .. but i still have a doubt. i havent ridden it more than 350 km.
i heared this engines have problems with the oil pump, people run them with the oil light on and screw the crank.

i have noticed that i have a hose from the airbox that hangs down near transmission cover so that the oil build up can drain. i noticed that the sidestand was oily one day so i decided to put a small container there. rode it in town like 100km and some oil drained there, let`s say 15 drops aproxx. i checked the the oil level and it was a little lower than i first changed it 350 kms ago so i topped it.
i went to a buddy for compression test and i think he has a defective gauge cause it reads over factory specification 12.5 ( went up to 14).
otherwise the scooter runs great, no white smoke, starts at a push of the button everytime and goes 75mph (i think speedo too optimistic)

so it`s normal to spit oil on that hose ? my kymco 50 spits verry verry little oil from that. everybody needs to topp oil often ?
i`m thinking to buy new set of piston rings next year.


sorry for long reply and writing mistakes

[mikrron]

forgot to mention . it has 15w50 yacco semisintethic oil in it.

a picture without side cases

[tomd]

Many friends in da Czech I am From Germany Frankfurt am main.. 1 clean Air box good 2 Clear drain and keep it so. 3 Change Oil to 5-W 40 or 50 Fill to LOW side of Full on Marks on You know screw in rest gauge on top of threads to chk oil DO NOT OVER FILL EVER 6 000 mile oil changes And if you Add oil Shiet Slick 50 ETC make sure you RATIO is Goot

[tomd]

I do Not Top my Rotax between changes either 5W-50 goes in 6000 miles later same amount comes out and repeat I also do NOT run the Shiet out of my rotax Its beautiful know its limits and enjoy it not destroy it

[bullwinkle 61]

I have a 2003 150 with 17,000 miles on it that is stalling and dying and is presently in the shop. The carb has been cleaned, there was a kinked hose, but the previous owner took off all the Cal Evap setup . When the scooter hits around 50 it sputters and conks out. I was curious about installing the mini fuel pump but a friend I asked about it said it would be incredibly complicated because of the wiring.I would appreciate any help.

[tomd]

Oh for Gods sakes thats weediculous This lil pump takes no Amps maybe 2 on a good day Everything on Bike is wired to Ignition switch until you turn key nothing A real saftey nut Mite want a Relay for the pump Tap into Red Ignition wire to operate relay open N close. Tthe relay will pick up 12 V direct from Battery and the output side of relay to pump just like the factory would do this is not a hio press med amp draw efi pump Im using a Lo amp draw lo press pump at 1.5 psi.. wiring is Bullshiet where to put the pump is almost more Shiet.. Mines rt at the rear wheel mud flap just sft of Starter I have it Gooped to a small land there this is also the gravity feed route already No problemo ..

[Rockynv]

Those vacuum pumps do cause a lot of problems. Seen people replace carbs, CDI, coils and ignition pickups ignoring the pump. A 150 is such a simple bike electrically that putting an electric pump in is usually a snap. Even in the worst case you are looking at hitching a 12 volt relay to the tail light positive lead and running a fused main line directly to the battery. Most everything you will need should be within a foot or two of the carbeurator. You are only dealing with getting a positive and negative 12 volt lead to a item about the size of a small soup can and swapping two fuel lines from the other pump along with plugging a vacuum line.

[bullwinkle 61]

Tom if you wouldn't mind telling me what kind of mini pump you bought plus any other information I would be deeply appreciative.My mechanic was talking about switching out the fuel pump, but I don't think that would solve the vacuum problem.

[tomd]

Whats prolly happening is youve no pulsin Vacumn to thee pump Straight Suck pulls diaphram to one side of pump internal and wont let it go to return to mid point to repeat the pulsing Vac allows this return faster making the pump able to keep up with demand Look online At Bugpacks lil Square Metal Carb pump Purlator sells it too packaged in their name I ll post a link in a min the unit going round all the place now is a newer model I cannot think of brand but failure rate Hi plastic housed think theres red and green one wks with crap fuel i believe

[Rockynv]

You may get the bike to run faster for a longer period of time with the electric pump but then the danger is going wide open throttle and beating on that rotax 150. Remember that the old adage still holds true that the candle that burns most brightly also burns out more quickly.

Tom what to you are the reasonable limits to run that 150 to without beating it to death?