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Thread: Cleaning of the stepper motor

  1. #31
    apriliaforum expert deefred's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mini_me View Post
    Officially, according the manual, you need to reset the IAC in the ECU.

    I too battled the high idle situation for a while. I have swapped IAC 3 times with resetting the IAC. Every time the idle went back to normal directly after a swap.
    There is no reference to reset in the futura manual. Could be linked to which efi system is used.
    2001 RST Futura in stream Silver.
    Mods: Modified Öhlins fork from mille R, EBC brake discs, HEL front brakelines, Carbon RS 250 front fender, Wiring mod for charging. Engine related:05 map, Iridium plugs, tuneboy, derestriced intake, old mille airboot, staintunes exhaust. Lambda bung hardbrazed in the "breadbox". Öhlins mille R rear shock with 110N/mm spring and the integrated hydraulic preload adjuster. LED Voltmeter installed inside the dash for monitoring charging. Duc 999 radial m/c for brake and clutch. EBC 320mm brake discs
    NWS hugger. Equipment: Famsa tankbag,
    CBR 600 -07 MOSFET R&R FH008EE providing stable 14.4 - 14.5 V (with my wiring mod). Daytona heated grips with mccoi pwm controller and automatic chain oiler

  2. #32
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    Just clarify the reset of the stepper motor....

    you will need an ODBII cable and the TuneEcu software. Once the ignition is on kill on so bike would start you go to the "Tests" screen in this screen you will see "Adjust IACV" click on this... You will see two boxes you can then Adjust AICV Value ... DONT LEFT CLICK.

    right click over the adjusting icons then "Reset" will appear. Left click that and it should reset to -1

    there should be no need to do this as the AICV self rights whenever you turn the ignition on and off.
    Blips of throttle are ness between each change you make so after non running ignition on changes starting the bike will be needed. Changes are best done to an engine at operating temps 74-78degC the bike will then be on RUNNING map not on the warm up control.
    Me n' Mine:-

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  3. #33
    apriliaforum prov-nov
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    Thought I might resurrect this thread instead of starting a new one.

    I took out my stepper motor today as I've been struggling with a very high idle speed (2-2.5k in neutral, just under that in gear). I did have oil in the airbox, and the white plunger did seem rather dirty. My question is do I grease it at all before reinstalling, or just keep it dry?

    I also noticed that where the outlet ports are in the valve, there are 2 raised spots on the plunger as seen below. I assume this is normal?

    Click image for larger version. 

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  4. #34
    apriliaforum expert deefred's Avatar
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    Plunger should be smooth. I don't grease it at installation.
    Do a vacuum balance check afterwards as the plunger can influence it.
    2001 RST Futura in stream Silver.
    Mods: Modified Öhlins fork from mille R, EBC brake discs, HEL front brakelines, Carbon RS 250 front fender, Wiring mod for charging. Engine related:05 map, Iridium plugs, tuneboy, derestriced intake, old mille airboot, staintunes exhaust. Lambda bung hardbrazed in the "breadbox". Öhlins mille R rear shock with 110N/mm spring and the integrated hydraulic preload adjuster. LED Voltmeter installed inside the dash for monitoring charging. Duc 999 radial m/c for brake and clutch. EBC 320mm brake discs
    NWS hugger. Equipment: Famsa tankbag,
    CBR 600 -07 MOSFET R&R FH008EE providing stable 14.4 - 14.5 V (with my wiring mod). Daytona heated grips with mccoi pwm controller and automatic chain oiler

  5. #35
    apriliaforum newb dabore's Avatar
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    I got an EFI error 44. Stepper motor kaput. Searching on the net I found out that any car stepper motor fits, all made in mexico, all have they own brand sticker. I went out and got my for 5 $/€, originally for a peugot 205. Its a perfect fit, I used the plunger from the broken stepper and put everything back in place. Key on and the ECU will do the rest.

  6. #36
    apriliaforum Member bkmo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by br3ttw1lls View Post
    Thought I might resurrect this thread instead of starting a new one.

    I took out my stepper motor today as I've been struggling with a very high idle speed (2-2.5k in neutral, just under that in gear). I did have oil in the airbox, and the white plunger did seem rather dirty. My question is do I grease it at all before reinstalling, or just keep it dry?

    I also noticed that where the outlet ports are in the valve, there are 2 raised spots on the plunger as seen below. I assume this is normal?

    Click image for larger version. 

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Size:	113.9 KB 
ID:	311157
    I too have the same raised areas on my plunger, and had the high idle problem. I figured it was not sealing properly and letting in too much air. I looked at spinning the plunger 180 degrees, but it is keyed in the motor. So I installed the motor 180 degrees out of the normal position. This allows the "good" side of the plunger to line up with the ports. The only difference is that the connector plugs in from the back now. This has cured all idle issues, and saved me the big expense of a new motor just to get a good plunger.

  7. #37
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    Thumbs up Variable Idle

    Quote Originally Posted by Tuzo View Post
    IAC (stepper motor)
    symtoms:
    -low variable idling which is even worse with the clutch in while in gear at a stop sign and stalling when coming to a stop (I had to immediately put it in neutral at a stop sign or light).
    temporary non-fixes:
    -adjusting your PC map (this works somewhat but it is not the true fix)
    -hand cleaning the stepper motor (lasts about two days)

    Fix: replace it with a used or new one (I picked up a used one on eBay and it worked good and even better when I zeroed out the PC entries I had used previously) or the above entry if you have an ultrasonic cleaner (did you use normal tap water?) above.
    Before you gio much further I had similar idle issues on my 2003 ETV100 Capo. All were cured by installing new vacuum hoses. The one fitted were probably original and essential wooden, stiff and garbage. New hoses and darn near perfect idle.
    Try that if you wish.
    PTC

  8. #38
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    Has anyone tried a BMW IAC? from photos 7676317 looks about right:


    it comes from some k1200r and f800 models it appears. it is not cheap as a new part either around 120, but it pops up on ebay and other used parts dealers a bit more often and not too bad used.
    seems like BMW f800 has the same issues when it dies: http://f800riders.org/forum/showthread.php/50935-Idle-Control-Idle-Actuator-Air-Bleed-Circuit
    Last edited by chbright; 06-19-2017 at 11:45 AM.

  9. #39
    apriliaforum expert RAS's Avatar
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  10. #40
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    sorry if this double posts....

    looks like the f800 bmw and potentially the k1200 use a similar valve:

    http://f800riders.org/forum/showthread.php/50935-Idle-Control-Idle-Actuator-Air-Bleed-Circuit


    http://www.bmw-etk.info/parts-catalo...05/13717676317


    looks to be the following part 13 71 7676317



    i have yet been able to track down the exact years and all the models it appears in. but i have had an easier time tracking this down used. found one for 35 dollars used. really tempted to try just to see if it is another source of the piston atleast.

  11. #41
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    I got a prefect idle by replacing all vacuum hoses, including the ones to the slipper clutch, and also all the connecting barbs, clamps and the one-way valves.

    Remapping and bumping up the long term fuel trim was the thing that eliminated the slow loping idle that sometimes appeared, that everyone said was "normal" for the Rotax.
    2001 Moto Guzzi V11 Sport, 2002 Aprilia Caponord, 1983 Moto Guzzi 850 LeMans III (sold), 1983 Yamaha 650 Turbo (sold), 1972 Honda CB750 (sold), 1981 Moto Guzzi V50 III (totaled), several Vespas and one Lambretta

  12. #42
    apriliaforum Member bkmo's Avatar
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    There should be a bunch of K1200 steppers around. I think BMW recalled them and replaced them with a new air box too. I saw this a while back, but there was nothing here in Costa Rica to compare it to.
    2002 Capo Wilbers rear shock, Wilbers front progressive springs, Metal fuel connectors, polaris sh775 series regulator direct wired, silicone vacuum lines, catfish map, CNC clutch slave, autoelectrics coils (2)sides, Triumph Denso 3990's centers, k&n air filter, all LED lighting, SS brake and clutch lines, Givi tall screen, Triumph tiger 955i mirrors, dual horns. Pure copper 4 gauge battery cables. Rox risers.

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