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Thread: Cleaning of the stepper motor

  1. #1
    apriliaforum expert deefred's Avatar
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    Cleaning of the stepper motor

    People have asked how to clean the stepper motor and below I have some pictures to show what it looks like disassembled.

    The stepper motor is attached to the lower RH side of the airbox.
    There are two hoses and one connector attached to it.
    Air comes from the airbox and is supplying filtered air to the stepper motor and the two hoses goes from the stepper motor to downstream of each throttle plate.

    The function of the stepper motor is to control idle when the throttle is in the closed position. It does this by varying the amount of air which is bypassing the throttle plate. The ECU is controlling the stepper motor to keep the idle to determined values depending of engine temperatures.
    When you turn the ignition ON a plunger inside the assy moves slightly up (i think) When the your turn the igntion OFF the plunger is moved all the way down to its endstop and then slightly up again. Its fighting against the endstop and makes some funny noises. This is an auto calibration routine.

    The stepper motor is attached to the airbox by two philips screws which are loctited. I suggest to remove the airbox for best possible access to the two screws to avoid damage.

    Once the stepper motor is removed you can seperate the motor part from the plastic housing.

    It is now very easy to clean the white plunger and the bore where the plunger moves up and down. You can see the two ports in the bottom of the bore.

    Check that the white plunger can only move slightly when you turn it with low force.

    If you want to also grease the gear inside the stepper motor it is a bit more complicated.
    Connect the electrical connector to the stepper motor which you hold in your hand. Turn ON and then OFF the ignition.
    The ECU will now drive the plunger to its end position but as it is removed from the plastic housing there is no end position any more so it will come flying as there is a spring pushing the plunger.
    Be prepared for this!
    Except for the spring there is also a thin sleeve.

    To install the plunger again (spring first then sleeve) screw it in until the recess in the thicker section matches the tab in the motor part.
    Now you will need to press the plunger hard like you want to press it in and at the same time turn the ignition ON then OFF. Your are now simulating the endstop and after 2 seconds about the plunger will be drawn in. You will need to repeat this two or three times to get it fully in.
    The picture with the plunger loose is nicked from Befbever.
    The spring and the sleeve is not shown.
    Attached Images Attached Images     
    Last edited by deefred; 09-06-2008 at 12:26 AM.
    2001 RST Futura in stream Silver.
    Mods: Modified Öhlins fork from mille R, EBC brake discs, HEL front brakelines, Carbon RS 250 front fender, Wiring mod for charging. Engine related:05 map, Iridium plugs, tuneboy, derestriced intake, old mille airboot, staintunes exhaust. Lambda bung hardbrazed in the "breadbox". Öhlins mille R rear shock with 110N/mm spring and the integrated hydraulic preload adjuster. LED Voltmeter installed inside the dash for monitoring charging. Duc 999 radial m/c for brake and clutch. EBC 320mm brake discs
    NWS hugger. Equipment: Famsa tankbag,
    CBR 600 -07 MOSFET R&R FH008EE providing stable 14.4 - 14.5 V (with my wiring mod). Daytona heated grips with mccoi pwm controller and automatic chain oiler

  2. #2
    apriliaforum expert RAS's Avatar
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    So what looks like a threaded rod is really more a circular "rack" and the motor spins a pinion? Nice write-up. Takes all the mystery away from this thing. thanks.

  3. #3
    apriliaforum expert deefred's Avatar
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    Yes, thats correct.

    I edit the text in the beginning as It was totally wrong about the two hoses.
    2001 RST Futura in stream Silver.
    Mods: Modified Öhlins fork from mille R, EBC brake discs, HEL front brakelines, Carbon RS 250 front fender, Wiring mod for charging. Engine related:05 map, Iridium plugs, tuneboy, derestriced intake, old mille airboot, staintunes exhaust. Lambda bung hardbrazed in the "breadbox". Öhlins mille R rear shock with 110N/mm spring and the integrated hydraulic preload adjuster. LED Voltmeter installed inside the dash for monitoring charging. Duc 999 radial m/c for brake and clutch. EBC 320mm brake discs
    NWS hugger. Equipment: Famsa tankbag,
    CBR 600 -07 MOSFET R&R FH008EE providing stable 14.4 - 14.5 V (with my wiring mod). Daytona heated grips with mccoi pwm controller and automatic chain oiler

  4. #4
    apriliaforum expert Befbever's Avatar
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    The function of the stepper motor is to control idle when the throttle is in the closed position.
    ...and at all ambient temperatures, right? I'm just saying this because we have no seperate "choke" like the Nippondenso FI systems do.

    Rack and pinion is exactly right.
    Nice write-up, Frederick.
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    apriliaforum expert RobC's Avatar
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    Thanks Deefred, time to check mine as it's not making any 'funny noises' on start/stop.

  6. #6
    apriliaforum expert The Fixer's Avatar
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    Thumbs up

    Good info for the archives...thanks!
    “The road’s what counts...don’t worry about where it’s goin’."
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  7. #7
    apriliaforum expert deefred's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Befbever View Post
    ...and at all ambient temperatures, right? I'm just saying this because we have no seperate "choke" like the Nippondenso FI systems do.

    Rack and pinion is exactly right.
    Nice write-up, Frederick.
    I think it is only checking for engine temp actually.
    In tuneboy thats the only parameter for idle speed at least.
    74 degrees Celsius engine temp and higher, the idle speed is maintained at 1280rpm.
    2001 RST Futura in stream Silver.
    Mods: Modified Öhlins fork from mille R, EBC brake discs, HEL front brakelines, Carbon RS 250 front fender, Wiring mod for charging. Engine related:05 map, Iridium plugs, tuneboy, derestriced intake, old mille airboot, staintunes exhaust. Lambda bung hardbrazed in the "breadbox". Öhlins mille R rear shock with 110N/mm spring and the integrated hydraulic preload adjuster. LED Voltmeter installed inside the dash for monitoring charging. Duc 999 radial m/c for brake and clutch. EBC 320mm brake discs
    NWS hugger. Equipment: Famsa tankbag,
    CBR 600 -07 MOSFET R&R FH008EE providing stable 14.4 - 14.5 V (with my wiring mod). Daytona heated grips with mccoi pwm controller and automatic chain oiler

  8. #8
    apriliaforum Member Smok3's Avatar
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    Please tell me if you had problems since you cleaned the stepper motor

    Thanks for advice,but it seems i`m have not solved anything
    when I cleaned,I think to replace... though I measured and it is good....
    -2001 RST Futura wearing Black.
    -Devil Magnum Exhaust ,Metal fuel line disconnect,Wiring mod done and waterproof conectors Reg/Rec Mod,Hepco-becker,Aftermarket Sliders,Onboard voltmeter,K&N inside but with the stok air box,HID = 1 X 35 W Low,2 x 55 W High,Saito heated grips,12 V Socket, SOLD @ 73 k KM and 11 k Mile
    - buy Honda VFR800 Vtec,Full Givi,touring windshield.....and that's all for now

  9. #9
    apriliaforum expert bobdavis73's Avatar
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    Awesome post Thanks!!!!

    Bob


    "Although all men are born free, slavery has been the general lot of the human race. Ignorant - they have been cheated; asleep - they have been surprised; divided - the yoke has been forced upon them. But what is the lesson? ...the people ought to be enlightened, to be awakened, to be united, that after establishing a govenment they should watch over it.... It is universally admitted that a well-instructed people alone can be permanently free."
    --James Madison

  10. #10
    apriliaforum expert deefred's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Smok3 View Post
    Please tell me if you had problems since you cleaned the stepper motor

    Thanks for advice,but it seems i`m have not solved anything
    when I cleaned,I think to replace... though I measured and it is good....
    No problem after I cleaned and I had no problems before either.
    Is your motor opening and closing as it should?
    2001 RST Futura in stream Silver.
    Mods: Modified Öhlins fork from mille R, EBC brake discs, HEL front brakelines, Carbon RS 250 front fender, Wiring mod for charging. Engine related:05 map, Iridium plugs, tuneboy, derestriced intake, old mille airboot, staintunes exhaust. Lambda bung hardbrazed in the "breadbox". Öhlins mille R rear shock with 110N/mm spring and the integrated hydraulic preload adjuster. LED Voltmeter installed inside the dash for monitoring charging. Duc 999 radial m/c for brake and clutch. EBC 320mm brake discs
    NWS hugger. Equipment: Famsa tankbag,
    CBR 600 -07 MOSFET R&R FH008EE providing stable 14.4 - 14.5 V (with my wiring mod). Daytona heated grips with mccoi pwm controller and automatic chain oiler

  11. #11
    apriliaforum Member Smok3's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by deefred View Post
    No problem after I cleaned and I had no problems before either.
    Is your motor opening and closing as it should?

    I do not know how you should open exactly....but I am sure it works, close and open in the airbox when I using the button,problem to me is when the engine is cold (second day), when the engine is hot the shock starts....

    When I turn the ignition ON like it moves down not up as you write you(i think I do not remember exactly )


    What advice can you help me?
    Last edited by Smok3; 05-23-2009 at 07:51 PM.
    -2001 RST Futura wearing Black.
    -Devil Magnum Exhaust ,Metal fuel line disconnect,Wiring mod done and waterproof conectors Reg/Rec Mod,Hepco-becker,Aftermarket Sliders,Onboard voltmeter,K&N inside but with the stok air box,HID = 1 X 35 W Low,2 x 55 W High,Saito heated grips,12 V Socket, SOLD @ 73 k KM and 11 k Mile
    - buy Honda VFR800 Vtec,Full Givi,touring windshield.....and that's all for now

  12. #12
    apriliaforum expert deefred's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Smok3 View Post
    I do not know how you should open exactly....but I am sure it works, close and open in the airbox when I using the button,problem to me is when the engine is cold (second day), when the engine is hot the shock starts....

    When I turn the ignition ON like it moves down not up as you write you(i think I do not remember exactly )


    What advice can you help me?
    Your stepper motor seems to functioning as it should.
    It moves up a tiny bit when turning ignition to ON and when you turn the ignition to OFF is should go all the way down and then turn and go up slightly again. Its visible when the top of the air box is removed.


    You need to give us detailed info about when and how your bike is not functioning well.
    2001 RST Futura in stream Silver.
    Mods: Modified Öhlins fork from mille R, EBC brake discs, HEL front brakelines, Carbon RS 250 front fender, Wiring mod for charging. Engine related:05 map, Iridium plugs, tuneboy, derestriced intake, old mille airboot, staintunes exhaust. Lambda bung hardbrazed in the "breadbox". Öhlins mille R rear shock with 110N/mm spring and the integrated hydraulic preload adjuster. LED Voltmeter installed inside the dash for monitoring charging. Duc 999 radial m/c for brake and clutch. EBC 320mm brake discs
    NWS hugger. Equipment: Famsa tankbag,
    CBR 600 -07 MOSFET R&R FH008EE providing stable 14.4 - 14.5 V (with my wiring mod). Daytona heated grips with mccoi pwm controller and automatic chain oiler

  13. #13
    apriliaforum Member Smok3's Avatar
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    Please believe me that is the only "problem" I have for the moment....very rare and I not understand why when push the button start ....like I do not have power for 1-2 seconds, "cut" board and the light turns off ...but repeat very rare and only when I press start at this moment the starter motor spins and until I pull the throttle does not start...
    But every day when i have the engine cold it starts... but after 2 seconds stops,restart it with gas...I go to 3000 Rpm its work but on board i have "error 1 "


    engine goes ok,I changed the spark plugs are a few hundred km
    Last edited by Smok3; 05-24-2009 at 06:28 AM.
    -2001 RST Futura wearing Black.
    -Devil Magnum Exhaust ,Metal fuel line disconnect,Wiring mod done and waterproof conectors Reg/Rec Mod,Hepco-becker,Aftermarket Sliders,Onboard voltmeter,K&N inside but with the stok air box,HID = 1 X 35 W Low,2 x 55 W High,Saito heated grips,12 V Socket, SOLD @ 73 k KM and 11 k Mile
    - buy Honda VFR800 Vtec,Full Givi,touring windshield.....and that's all for now

  14. #14
    apriliaforum expert deefred's Avatar
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    Does it always idle high at all temperatures?
    Did this problem come suddenly?

    Have you checked your CO levels?

    Can be a lot of things, temp sensors, TPS not at zero with throttle shut etc.
    2001 RST Futura in stream Silver.
    Mods: Modified Öhlins fork from mille R, EBC brake discs, HEL front brakelines, Carbon RS 250 front fender, Wiring mod for charging. Engine related:05 map, Iridium plugs, tuneboy, derestriced intake, old mille airboot, staintunes exhaust. Lambda bung hardbrazed in the "breadbox". Öhlins mille R rear shock with 110N/mm spring and the integrated hydraulic preload adjuster. LED Voltmeter installed inside the dash for monitoring charging. Duc 999 radial m/c for brake and clutch. EBC 320mm brake discs
    NWS hugger. Equipment: Famsa tankbag,
    CBR 600 -07 MOSFET R&R FH008EE providing stable 14.4 - 14.5 V (with my wiring mod). Daytona heated grips with mccoi pwm controller and automatic chain oiler

  15. #15
    apriliaforum Member Smok3's Avatar
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    Romania,Bucharest
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    Quote Originally Posted by deefred View Post
    Does it always idle high at all temperatures?
    Did this problem come suddenly?

    Have you checked your CO levels?

    Can be a lot of things, temp sensors, TPS not at zero with throttle shut etc.


    The only things that do not know how to do is to adjust TPS at zero,
    the rest I can handle to check thanks againfor advice.
    Can you help me with some advice on TPS ?
    -2001 RST Futura wearing Black.
    -Devil Magnum Exhaust ,Metal fuel line disconnect,Wiring mod done and waterproof conectors Reg/Rec Mod,Hepco-becker,Aftermarket Sliders,Onboard voltmeter,K&N inside but with the stok air box,HID = 1 X 35 W Low,2 x 55 W High,Saito heated grips,12 V Socket, SOLD @ 73 k KM and 11 k Mile
    - buy Honda VFR800 Vtec,Full Givi,touring windshield.....and that's all for now

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