Page 41 of 42 FirstFirst ... 3139404142 LastLast
Results 601 to 615 of 624

Thread: Ricks Motorsports Stator Version 2 - Thicker next step wires

  1. #601
    apriliaforum Junkie
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    Earth
    Posts
    473
    and dont forget to upgrade your solenoid to 150amp ap8112927 https://www.af1racing.com/store/Scripts/prodView.asp?idProduct=746 https://www.af1racing.com/store/Scri...idProduct=2538 .. or 3UF-81940-00-00 from yamaha.. or 4kd-81-940-00 (virago i believe).. oem 2004-2007 (if im not mistaken) is 50amp only..

  2. #602
    apriliaforum expert steelman_2's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Finland
    Posts
    884
    Quote Originally Posted by Goshawk View Post
    BUMP of an old thread.

    So has the Computer-Fire R/R and Rick's stator become the definitive fix for this issue?

    I guess the stator auxiliary external oiling mod is not necessary?


    Thanks,

    P.
    I've upgrated R/R and by hand wounded ( from thicker wire) stator if the original burns, somehow I'm not secure with that oil mod ....... is it clear that it is not hurting the oil system in engine ?
    I'm a (triathlo)nist, that's why I've joined A(prilia) & A(udi) club.

  3. #603
    apriliaforum Member BBear's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Location
    Brooklyn, NY
    Posts
    144
    Brutal! Simply cruel! This Garage Queen is merciless! I am still struggling with the Hydraulic Clutch and now I lost the charging system! WTH!

    I went to visit family saturday in CT and after some heavy (and hot!) traffic the battery was low on charge and could not run the engine. I was able to re-charge the battery and run the bike, only to realize I was getting lows 12V while running the bike, instead of my 14.2V. So I just read all 41 pages on this topic as my stator seems to have gone bad for me. I have few questions that I could use some help:

    1. I was not able to test the stator as recommended (no multimeter around) and now I am two hours away from the bike. Is there any chance the stator is still good and the problem is the R/R or scientifically this makes no sense? I've read a lot about testing the Stator and replacing both Stator/Regulator but it seems more like a holistic approach to fix the problem, and that is fine. I just want to make sure I understand why I would be replacing both Stator/Regulator or if there is any chance that stator is fine and regulator is shot.

    2. As of today, what is the most recommended combo, with reliability in mind? It seems like Rick's Stator #21-008 and one of the following Regulators:

    - Compu-Fire Regulator 40A 3-Phase #55402
    - CE CB 605
    - Ricks Hot-Shot Regulator

    There are lot of in-depth arguments regarding R/R technology to match our alternators, which I honestly dont fully understand, but it seems like replacing the regulator with a series type unit like the Compufire or the Cycle Electric unit should help eliminate the over heating that causes the stators to fail. Is this accurate? Although I also came across some posts that the manufacturer for the CE units were hesitant to sell R/R for this Aprilia application? Does that make Compufire the ultimate option?

    Thanks in advance!
    Evil-Twin Rider
    + Suzuki TL1000S
    + Aprilia Tuono 1000R

  4. #604
    apriliaforum Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Maryland, USA
    Posts
    152
    Quote Originally Posted by BBear View Post
    Brutal! Simply cruel! This Garage Queen is merciless! I am still struggling with the Hydraulic Clutch and now I lost the charging system! WTH!

    I went to visit family saturday in CT and after some heavy (and hot!) traffic the battery was low on charge and could not run the engine. I was able to re-charge the battery and run the bike, only to realize I was getting lows 12V while running the bike, instead of my 14.2V. So I just read all 41 pages on this topic as my stator seems to have gone bad for me. I have few questions that I could use some help:

    1. I was not able to test the stator as recommended (no multimeter around) and now I am two hours away from the bike. Is there any chance the stator is still good and the problem is the R/R or scientifically this makes no sense? I've read a lot about testing the Stator and replacing both Stator/Regulator but it seems more like a holistic approach to fix the problem, and that is fine. I just want to make sure I understand why I would be replacing both Stator/Regulator or if there is any chance that stator is fine and regulator is shot.

    2. As of today, what is the most recommended combo, with reliability in mind? It seems like Rick's Stator #21-008 and one of the following Regulators:

    - Compu-Fire Regulator 40A 3-Phase #55402
    - CE CB 605
    - Ricks Hot-Shot Regulator

    There are lot of in-depth arguments regarding R/R technology to match our alternators, which I honestly dont fully understand, but it seems like replacing the regulator with a series type unit like the Compufire or the Cycle Electric unit should help eliminate the over heating that causes the stators to fail. Is this accurate? Although I also came across some posts that the manufacturer for the CE units were hesitant to sell R/R for this Aprilia application? Does that make Compufire the ultimate option?

    Thanks in advance!

    Historically, it has been the stator that has failed before the R/R due to heat from several factors. The series R/R reduces this heat which means that the stator lasts longer when using the Compufire or similar series R/R. It is possible for the R/R to fail and not the stator.

    One thing to check is the brown connectors - my 2004 had two and one actually caught fire and melted. Later years (not sure when they started) only had one but they are both prone to failure. The brown connectors develop corrosion over time which causes resistance to go up infinitely until they get so hot they melt or catch fire. In my case both the brown connector (one of them) and stator were toast. I think the failed brown connector is what ultimately killed my stator but don't know for sure.

    Only the series R/R reduces load on the stator, regular MOSFET units are still shunt type R/Rs and will do nothing for stator temps. The series R/R only allows the stator to produce as much current as is needed. The shunt type R/R (even MOSFET) cause the R/R to produce full current and then dump the unused current back to the stator, hence the heat. I'm not sure if the Rick's HotShot R/R is a series type, the older ones were not.

    I'm running the Compufire R/R and Rick's stator FWIW. You may be able to swing by a WalMart or similar and pick up a cheap multi-meter while you're out. Check the integrity of the brown connector(s) and check voltage from the stator. In any case, if you still have one or more brown connectors get rid of them ASAP.
    Last edited by benton0311; 07-25-2016 at 10:58 AM.

  5. #605
    apriliaforum Member BBear's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Location
    Brooklyn, NY
    Posts
    144
    Quote Originally Posted by benton0311 View Post
    One thing to check is the brown connectors - my 2004 had two and one actually caught fire and melted. Later years (not sure when they started) only had one but they are both prone to failure. The brown connectors develop corrosion over time which causes resistance to go up infinitely until they get so hot they melt or catch fire. In my case both the brown connector (one of them) and stator were toast. I think the failed brown connector is what ultimately killed my stator but don't know for sure.
    I was able to check the brown connector behind the coolant reservoir - one leg was in bad condition, so I cleaned and greased it up. Not sure where the possible 2nd connector is. I've been reading about this this morning, and it seems that IF there is a 2nd connector, would be somewhere between Alternator and the brown connector behind the coolant reservoir? I need to trace this to see if I even have this.



    Quote Originally Posted by benton0311 View Post
    I'm running the Compufire R/R and Rick's stator FWIW. You may be able to swing by a WalMart or similar and pick up a cheap multi-meter while you're out. Check the integrity of the brown connector(s) and check voltage from the stator. In any case, if you still have one or more brown connectors get rid of them ASAP.
    That is the package I am planning on installing, if tests confirm stator is shot. I do have a nice MMeter, just that Murphys Law applied here: I was riding 2 hours away from home and was forced to leave the bike behind at my moms' garage. Now I need to take the train back, bring the tools and test everything before ordering parts. Absolutely not happy with the whole situation.

  6. #606
    apriliaforum Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Maryland, USA
    Posts
    152
    Quote Originally Posted by BBear View Post
    I was able to check the brown connector behind the coolant reservoir - one leg was in bad condition, so I cleaned and greased it up. Not sure where the possible 2nd connector is. I've been reading about this this morning, and it seems that IF there is a 2nd connector, would be somewhere between Alternator and the brown connector behind the coolant reservoir? I need to trace this to see if I even have this.
    My 04 had one to the right of the engine behind the coolant reservoir and one next to the R/R. The one behind the reservoir burnt up and the one by the R/R was fine although I eliminated both. I think the one by the R/R is the same for all years if stock (could be wrong) and the one behind the coolant reservoir was eliminated on later years. The stator wires ran up from the stator, to the right through the valley/vee of the cylinders, first brown connector to the right of the cylinders (behind coolant reservoir) and the up through a loom on the fairing stay, and then to another brown connector next to the R/R. I think some later models may have the stator wiring running around the front of the bike with no middle brown connector, just the one by the R/R.
    Last edited by benton0311; 07-25-2016 at 12:45 PM.

  7. #607
    apriliaforum Member BBear's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Location
    Brooklyn, NY
    Posts
    144
    Quote Originally Posted by benton0311 View Post
    My 04 had one to the right of the engine behind the coolant reservoir and one next to the R/R. The one behind the reservoir burnt up and the one by the R/R was fine although I eliminated both. I think the one by the R/R is the same for all years if stock (could be wrong) and the one behind the coolant reservoir was eliminated on later years. The stator wires ran up from the stator, to the right through the valley/vee of the cylinders, first brown connector to the right of the cylinders (behind coolant reservoir) and the up through a loom on the fairing stay, and then to another brown connector next to the R/R.

    Hmm... interesting. I thought they were on each side of the bike. So I have definitely checked the one behind the coolant reservoir... And the second (or first, following your standard) should be by the regulator? Very helpful. I need to inspect the bike and run some tests before placing any orders, so this was very helpful.

    So could you clarify how exactly you run your wires? Straight from new Stator to new regulator, one straight run? Would that eliminate BOTH existing brown connectors or simply one, assuming one has both?

    I guess I am still a bit confused: I can understand ONE brown connector between existing stator and existing regulator. For the bikes with (2) brown connectors, is the second ALSO between R/R and stator? Sounds weird. If so, I guess one could easily remove BOTH brown connectors and do a straight run from new Stator to new Regulator?

    Now if the second brown connector is AFTER the regulator, then this would be a different story...

    Am I on the right track or simply confused about all of this?
    Evil-Twin Rider
    + Suzuki TL1000S
    + Aprilia Tuono 1000R

  8. #608
    apriliaforum Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Maryland, USA
    Posts
    152
    Quote Originally Posted by BBear View Post
    Hmm... interesting. I thought they were on each side of the bike. So I have definitely checked the one behind the coolant reservoir... And the second (or first, following your standard) should be by the regulator? Very helpful. I need to inspect the bike and run some tests before placing any orders, so this was very helpful.

    So could you clarify how exactly you run your wires? Straight from new Stator to new regulator, one straight run? Would that eliminate BOTH existing brown connectors or simply one, assuming one has both?

    I guess I am still a bit confused: I can understand ONE brown connector between existing stator and existing regulator. For the bikes with (2) brown connectors, is the second ALSO between R/R and stator? Sounds weird. If so, I guess one could easily remove BOTH brown connectors and do a straight run from new Stator to new Regulator?

    Now if the second brown connector is AFTER the regulator, then this would be a different story...

    Am I on the right track or simply confused about all of this?
    2004 Wiring: Stator -> right through vee -> brown connector on right side of vee (approx by reservoir) -> up along fairing stay -> brown connector by R/R on front right. Brown connectors are AC from stator to R/R. The OEM R/R DC output then goes through a white connector back to the fuse block/main harness area.

    Later wiring (from what I've read): Stator -> around front of bike (not through vee) -> brown connector by R/R

    The Rick's stator will have longer wires than OEM (at least for 04) that you can run directly to the R/R and connect by any method not involving a brown connector. You can route the stator wires any way you like - you don't have to run it back through the engine if you don't want to. I used Radio Shack crimp terminals and heat shrink with dielectric grease but you can use any decent terminal or solder you like. The Compufire R/R will have 10 gauge DC wires that you route directly to the battery (bypassing OEM harness) with an included 40 AMP fuse holder. The Compufire also comes with a Delphi weatherpack connector for the AC/stator wires that is ideal but you will need terminals to use with the Rick's stator which I did not have on hand.

    When I tested my old stator, both before and after discovering the burnt connector, I was getting acceptable charging voltage of 60V across all three phases but had continuity to ground with all three so be sure to check that as well when you test.
    Last edited by benton0311; 07-25-2016 at 01:50 PM.

  9. #609
    apriliaforum Member BBear's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Location
    Brooklyn, NY
    Posts
    144
    Very clear. Thank you sir! So either way (with two or one brown connectors) the job involves eliminating them and running straight to the R/R.

  10. #610
    apriliaforum expert steelman_2's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Finland
    Posts
    884
    Quote Originally Posted by BBear View Post
    I guess one could easily remove BOTH brown connectors and do a straight run from new Stator to new Regulator?
    I took the original wires away and did do new shorter routing while my new R/R is located next to battery.

    Name:  Retrifier install.jpg
Views: 151
Size:  38.9 KB
    I'm a (triathlo)nist, that's why I've joined A(prilia) & A(udi) club.

  11. #611
    apriliaforum Member BBear's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Location
    Brooklyn, NY
    Posts
    144
    Quote Originally Posted by benton0311 View Post
    The Compufire R/R will have 10 gauge DC wires that you route directly to the battery (bypassing OEM harness) with an included 40 AMP fuse holder.
    I missed this the first time around. So from the new regulator you simply run the cable straight to the battery? I didnt realize this. And what did you do with the other end of the OEM harness? Just blacktaped it? This definitely seems pretty straight forward job.



    Quote Originally Posted by steelman_2 View Post
    I took the original wires away and did do new shorter routing while my new R/R is located next to battery.
    I've read about some RSVs with relocated R/R but I have not seen that done on the Tuono - could it be that less usable space on the Tuono's tail? Not sure. From what I understand, one of the options for the regulator (Compufire) replaces the stock unit on the same location, so maybe relocating the R/R on the Tuono is less popular?

  12. #612
    apriliaforum Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Maryland, USA
    Posts
    152
    Quote Originally Posted by steelman_2 View Post
    I took the original wires away and did do new shorter routing while my new R/R is located next to battery.

    Name:  Retrifier install.jpg
Views: 151
Size:  38.9 KB

    I have mine routed similar to yours on both my bikes, the only difference is that I have the R/R in the unused portion of the tail section. How is the heat on yours? The series R/Rs run a lot cooler although I noticed it gets a little warmer on the RSVR compared to my SV. I like this routing since it makes for the shortest possible distance for both the AC and DC lines for optimum charging voltage.

    Quote Originally Posted by BBear View Post
    I missed this the first time around. So from the new regulator you simply run the cable straight to the battery? I didnt realize this. And what did you do with the other end of the OEM harness? Just blacktaped it? This definitely seems pretty straight forward job.
    Yup, just taped over it so that it doesn't get too nasty being exposed but it's no longer being used for anything. When I get around to it I'll probably just yank it out. The R/R install is super easy. The stator is easy in principle but the labor is a bit of a pain.

  13. #613
    apriliaforum expert steelman_2's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Finland
    Posts
    884
    Quote Originally Posted by benton0311 View Post
    I have mine routed similar to yours on both my bikes, the only difference is that I have the R/R in the unused portion of the tail section. How is the heat on yours?
    Actually it gets quite hot and I'm up to do some extra holes behing the new R/R but to under section.
    I'm a (triathlo)nist, that's why I've joined A(prilia) & A(udi) club.

  14. #614
    apriliaforum newb Geri's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    Hungary
    Posts
    2
    Hi srácok !

    Sokat olvastam arról, hogy mit lehet tenni , hogy a állórész .

    1:
    Ricks állórész # 21 - 004 és Compu -Fire 55402

    vagy

    Visszatekertem ismét 370 watt teljesítmény és Compu -Fire 55402

    Mi a különbség ? Hány Watts ezek az állórész ?
    http://www.oemcycle.com/Item/product/900107145

    http://www.oemcycle.com/Item/product/900107269

    Előre is köszönöm a válaszokat !

  15. #615
    apriliaforum newb Geri's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    Hungary
    Posts
    2
    Quote Originally Posted by Oberon View Post
    Hello

    Thanks to this thread I have changed the burnt stator and the R/R.

    I installed the Compu-Fire 55402 and made some pictures with the infrared camera.

    This is a picture of the original aprilia R/R:

    and this is a picture of the Compu-Fire 55402:


    I made also pictures of the stator cover.
    Temp with original R/R:


    Temp with Compu-Fire 55402:


    For those who are interested I wrote a Media Wiki post. It's in german but there are a lot of pictures...

    Regards
    René
    Hi René!

    I would like to ask from you, stator works since then?

Page 41 of 42 FirstFirst ... 3139404142 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •