Recurring Clutch and Rear Brake Issues

[Triple Threat]

Tomorrow I will remove the slave, pump the piston forcefully and reveres inject more brake fluid and hopefully I get a happy ending.

Thank you,

Triple

So I followed the procedures and in the end I have to take my bike to the shop, it may be something else, who knows.

Worth noting, when I pulled the slave out this time to hand pump it did not leak. My bike just turned 5,000 miles so I doubt anything has worn out at this point, but you never know.

Thanks for all the help, I'll circle back with you all and let you all know what the final fix was.

Triple

[kzmille]

Depending on the amount of clutch use by any particular rider - some use the clutch all the time, some shift without - it would not be unusual for the slave cylinder seal to show considerable degradation at 5,000 miles. The problem is a lack of adequate lubrication causing excessive wear to the seal. Brake fluid alone is not adequate as is evidenced by the always blackened fluid. Lubricating the slave seal and bore with liberal amounts of silicone O-ring lubricant has shown a significant reduction in the seal wear and discoloring of the fluid.

[Triple Threat]

Idiot update (that's me).

I called my friend over to help me take the bike to the shop. I decide let's go around the block and she how she rides. Well guess F*ing what. It feels fine!

The main reason why I thought I was still having an issue is because while my bike was on the stand, I'd place my bike in first gear the rear tire would just spin up, same with second gear. I'm not saying everything is perfect, but I feel I'm well on my way. At this point I want to lube the seal (currently it has no lube on it) and I will push on the slave more since I'll already be there.

Thanks for all the help, I greatly appreciate it. I may write a set of idiot proof instructions, so those like me won't get lost in this 20 page thread which has an over whelming amount of information.

All the best,

Triple

[kzmille]

These bikes have more clutch drag than virtually all others due to the slipper clutch design. Trying to turn the rear wheel by hand or watching the rear wheel spin while in gear are useless tests on these bikes that reveal nothing. If you want to determine if your clutch is disengaging properly shift it up into sixth gear and with the engine off and the lever pulled you should be able to turn the rear wheel.

[PlatinumRSV]

How strong are your rear brakes? Meaning, can you lock them up at speed or are they like mine where they kind of slow you down and can hold you while stopped on a hill? I think I have some more bleeding to do

[kzmille]

I don't know who that is directed at. The only time I use the rear brake is at low speed in the city when wet or any time off pavement or when there is loose sand or gravel over pavement. The rear brake has always seemed adequate for those conditions. I've never tried to lock it at any speed and don't use it on hills. I think some have an unreasonable expectation of how much stopping power this brake should be able to develop. After all, we're talking about a single 220mm disc with two small pads and two pistons compared to two 320mm discs and 4 times the pistons and nearly 4 times the pad area. Yes, it should function reliably but it is designed for road racing and not for its ability to stop the bike on its own. Should definitely be able to hold the bike on any hill and slow the bike at low speed in low traction situations.

[PlatinumRSV]

I don't know who that is directed at. The only time I use the rear brake is at low speed in the city when wet or any time off pavement or when there is loose sand or gravel over pavement. The rear brake has always seemed adequate for those conditions. I've never tried to lock it at any speed and don't use it on hills. I think some have an unreasonable expectation of how much stopping power this brake should be able to develop. After all, we're talking about a single 220mm disc with two small pads and two pistons compared to two 320mm discs and 4 times the pistons and nearly 4 times the pad area. Yes, it should function reliably but it is designed for road racing and not for its ability to stop the bike on its own. Should definitely be able to hold the bike on any hill and slow the bike at low speed in low traction situations.

As always, thanks for the response. The question was more or less for everyone. I was just curious what the general consensus was about the strength of the rear brake after proper bleeding. Mine holds on a steep hill but is inadequate for much else. I have rarely used the rear brake on any sportbike I have had since I started ridding in 2000. As a result, not having a lot of stopping power out back is not a big deal for me.

I did just convert my rearsets from Sato type I to type II which means I moved the rear MC from the stock location to the rearset. In doing so, the line was be removed so I am sure I there is some air left in the system. I left some weight on the lever for a few days and that actually helped a bit and I bet if I give it another good bleed it should be spot on.

Thanks again