In response to the almost daily PM’s I have been receiving regarding information on changing the fuel hose on an 06’ Scarabeo 500, I will try to write a step by step walkthrough and help as many people as possible.
Sadly, first comes the legal BS disclaimer:
I am not responsible if you screw up your bike, if it explodes of if you get eye cancer and killer hemorroids (or any combination of the previous) by looking at this thread
This is a “work in progress” walkthrough and I will add pictures and additional explanations as needed, just let me know where you are stuck. I am doing this from memory so excuse any mistakes.
Keep in consideration the following before you start to work:
The bike fuel thank has to be almost empty, ľ of a tank at the most.
Have several disposable cups or containers that you can name, where you will put the screws and bolts from the different parts of the bike you are removing. DON’T RELY ON YOUR MEMORY FOR THIS.
Have a piece (aprox. 4 inches) of 5/16 submersible fuel line and two clamps.
The level of skill for this repair is fairly simple.
The most difficult part is removing the plastics.
When you remove the plastics, place them in an area where they won’t be scratched or damaged by you stepping on them.
An extra set of hands will help finishing quicker but they are not necessary.
If you go slow and take your time and are patient and careful it will be a piece of cake.
It would be better to find a garage or a comfortable place to work on both sides of the bike while it is on its center stand.
Make sure you can sit on the floor and work for around 20 - 30 mins at a time.
All this above is more important than the level of skill involved.
As for the tools, you will need are:
A hex set L shaped. Can be bought in any auto parts
a screwdriver and a set of pliers.
This would be optional but very helpful:
Obviously metric sizes only.(ej. 4mm, 5mm, 7mm, 10mm, etc.)
1. Place the bike on its center stand and see if you can sit at both sides of it comfortably.
2. Remove the side panniers and store them away.
3. Remove the engine cover. Lift the seat, remove the 6 bolts around the top of the cover and the two in the back. Notice how the two bolts in the back are longer than the other six, remember this when assembling back.
See the first 25 seconds of this video:
4. Remove both passenger foot pegs. Remove the three big bolts noticing that the one in the lower front is longer than the other two these bolts are tight and might require for you to either step on the hex tool or use a small pipe for leverage.
Remove the small bolt in the back and I think there was one up front too. Open the foot peg and remove the two Phillips screws under the foot peg.
Wiggle the foot peg assembly out.
5. Remove the two front clear air diffusers. Three bolts each.
6. Remove the front glove box door. Three Phillips screws.
7. Remove the two Phillips screws under the battery cover (right side) and the two Phillips screws on the other side. The two Phillips screws on the left side are the ones symmetrical to the ones removed on the right side.
I think I will need a picture here but if in doubt just remove all the lower Phillips screws of the left side.
8. Remove the center tunnel. Remove the four Phillips screws on both sides of the tunnel and all the bolts on the floor boards. They are all the same size so you can put them all in a cup and label it floor boards.
Remove the bolts on the upper rear of the tunnel (these were hidden by the engine cover on step three).
9. Now, this is where some artistry and an extra hand come in handy but are not necessary. Wiggle the center tunnel to make sure there are no other bolts or screws attached and it is loose.
Carefully lift the rear (towards the seat) of the tunnel and try to remove it being careful with the plastic from the leg shied. Some bolt clamps will fall from the plastic into the lower cover or the floor, pick them up and put them in place again.
This sounds more difficult than it really is and will take you 1 or 2 minutes to complete, I just don’t want anyone yanking the tunnel out and breaking something.
10. Now the fun part. After you remove the tunnel, you will see the fuel pump under it. Disconnect the electrical connector, with your hands, unscrew (counterclockwise) the upper fuel pump retaining cap. Pass it over the two hoses that come out of the pump, it’s not necessary to remove these hoses.
11. Lift the fuel pump assembly out of the lower tank just enough to see the clear hose. You may want to wear rubber gloves and/or clean hands.
12. With the pliers, remove the clear fuel hose, it should be fairly easy as it is already loose.
13. Cut a piece of the new submersible line the same size of the clear line.
14. Insert the two loose clamps over the new hose and replace the hose.
15. Tighten the clamps.
16. Insert the fuel pump assembly back into the lower tank being carful not to crimp the rubber seal around the pump, screw on back the cap and reconnect the electrical plug.
17. Clean any spilled gas and start the bike.
18. If everything seems fine, assembly will be done by reversing the steps.