How much fork Oil??? Please Help!

[SilverBeo]

I plan to jump on adding fresh Fork Oil as I put it off too long! I looked at the service manual and watched the youtube video and checked every place but can't find out how much "Oil" to add, Everything stresses to put the correct amount but never says what that is Any one know? Do I just fill it up? Looks so easy and by the time I get it to my nearest Aprilia dealer @ $150 to pick it up and return to me and a quote of over $400-$500 Parts/labor I am out $650....
$0.75 mile @100 miles away, 200 round trip. I could drive it to them but then I am stuck for Days until it can be and is done...

[vtwin_pilot]

You’d think they’d list the capacity in the same section in which they describe the process for disassembling and refilling the oil. Instead, they chose to list all fluid capacities in the front of the manual. Here’s a snippet from the manual (section 1.7.1 in the version I have) showing some capacities, including that for the forks:

CAPACITY
Fuel (reserve included) 17 L
Fuel reserve 2 L
Engine oil
- Engine oil and filter change 1500 cm³
- replacement (engine overhaul) 1700 cm³
Transmission oil ~250 cm³
Coolant (50% water + 50% antifreeze with ethylene glycol) 1.5 L
Front fork oil 230 cm³

So the fork oil capacity is 230cm3, or 230cc, or 230 ml (don’t you just love the metric system!).

I was reading the procedure for fork disassembly. Sheesh. Not hard necessarily, but it involves removing a whole slew of parts (clips, seals, bushings, etc). I’d be slightly afraid I’d not put them back together properly. I’ve never attempted fork maintenance for that very reason. It doesn’t seem all that hard if you take your time and label the parts you take out as well the orientation of key items like seals, taking care not to put anything in upside down.

Hope that helps. Good luck and let us know how it works out.

[JulioB]

I have the manual but do you remember if it was 230cc each or for both?

[vtwin_pilot]

I have to imagine it's per fork, based on how it's written.

[SilverBeo]

CAPACITY
Fuel (reserve included) 17 L
Fuel reserve 2 L
Engine oil
- Engine oil and filter change 1500 cm³
- replacement (engine overhaul) 1700 cm³
Transmission oil ~250 cm³
Coolant (50% water + 50% antifreeze with ethylene glycol) 1.5 L
Front fork oil 230 cm³

So the fork oil capacity is 230cm3, or 230cc, or 230 ml (don’t you just love the metric system!).


Hope that helps. Good luck and let us know how it works out.

Thanks! I will lay everything out in steps so not to mix up. Forgive me but 230 ml is 230cc? "THAT WILL MAKE IT EASIER" cc's gives me too much of a pain in the butt or arm!

[vtwin_pilot]

yes, 1 cc=1ml. Good luck with the teardown. If you happen to document it in photos, better than the ones in the manual, and you can share those, much appreciated for those of us waiting to dive in but are a bit jittery.

[SilverBeo]

yes, 1 cc=1ml. Good luck with the teardown. If you happen to document it in photos, better than the ones in the manual, and you can share those, much appreciated for those of us waiting to dive in but are a bit jittery.

As soon as I get a vice, I am on it! as I go along I will get some photo's and try to list all tools needed for the job! I would be done by now but my vice may have fell in love with someone else and moved on with them so now I am on a vice hunt...
After a call to my dealer and asking about my scoot bottoming out he said beside the oil change they could add a "STRONGER" coil/spring! I may look more into that too and besides I have never seen any oil leak from the forks. I will go with 20w - Here in the desert thick oils go right to water thin anyways!!! Should be done hopefully this week...

[JulioB]

Great Silverbeo! Although the Youtube videos are a great help, they are a little vague for the diyselfer. Make sure to also include the necesary new parts that need to be purchased from the dealer (seals, etc.) if any. Also if you can measure the ammount of old oil out of each fork, we will know if the 230cc are per or for both it will be greatly appreciated.
I just keep adding to the list of winter projects.

[zane]

If you follow the manual, you'll have no problems. The photos are very good in showing all operations. The only issue that the manual does a poor job explaining relates to the retaining rings. The rings that 'lock' the forks in the frame of the scooter are very thin. The rings that hold the plastic cap into position in the slider are much heavier. You can very easily do what I did and that was to swap them when I was reassembling the slider. I discovered this after I had one of the rebuilt forks installed on the bike. I noticed that if I applied downward pressure on the fork, the ring would pop out of the retaining groove and release the fork. I was able to remove the retaining ring that held the cap in place and swap it out with the one that holds the fork on the frame without removing the fork. I have no idea what would have happened if I would have driven the scooter for any distance with the retaining rings reversed, but I sure would not want to see what would happen if the fork fails...

After riding the scooter a number of times since I did the job, I can say that the cornering and handling has improved greatly. In fact, the scooter seemed to be too stiff in the corners at first. I was accustomed to the forks having very little tension. I went with a 20 weight oil for the forks (230 cc/fork). This was the heaviest grade the dealer handled (an aprilia dealer). The manual calls for a heavier weight oil. At this point, I'm glad I used the 20 weight.

[SilverBeo]

If you follow the manual, you'll have no problems. The photos are very good in showing all operations. The only issue that the manual does a poor job explaining relates to the retaining rings. The rings that 'lock' the forks in the frame of the scooter are very thin. The rings that hold the plastic cap into position in the slider are much heavier. You can very easily do what I did and that was to swap them when I was reassembling the slider. I discovered this after I had one of the rebuilt forks installed on the bike. I noticed that if I applied downward pressure on the fork, the ring would pop out of the retaining groove and release the fork. I was able to remove the retaining ring that held the cap in place and swap it out with the one that holds the fork on the frame without removing the fork. I have no idea what would have happened if I would have driven the scooter for any distance with the retaining rings reversed, but I sure would not want to see what would happen if the fork fails...

After riding the scooter a number of times since I did the job, I can say that the cornering and handling has improved greatly. In fact, the scooter seemed to be too stiff in the corners at first. I was accustomed to the forks having very little tension. I went with a 20 weight oil for the forks (230 cc/fork). This was the heaviest grade the dealer handled (an aprilia dealer). The manual calls for a heavier weight oil. At this point, I'm glad I used the 20 weight.

AWE-SOME Zane, Thanks for the update! I just got my Fork Oil today and will start on it shortly. The Piaggio dealer I got the oil from Whipped out some 30 weight forktuner "HEAVY" for me and said here in the desert its the best. The bottle is a 1000ml so should do the job well. If I find what you did on how it feels I'm going to be a Happy Dude.....

[Rob in Denver]

Silverbeo, did you ever see the Volkswagon Idiots book? Write it like that, and maybe I can do it as well!

[SilverBeo]

I should have took more photo's but hope you get the basics! See post "BELOW" on doing the fork Oil your self--The whole thing took me 45 min...
Bad Oil as you see is Brown - Fresh Oil should have a Green tint.....
The seals at the top of the forks could have Lots of rust! This makes it hard to push in on them to remove the Circlip (Steel "O" ring holding seal) It also keeps the seal from coming off even after removing the circlip no matter how much you press on it and with all the spring power trying to push it outward--Try WD-40 and let it soak, Should help.

I found that if you could get the top Seal off while forks are still on Beo you can remove bolt at bottom of forks and just drain the oil out that way "Without" taking off forks - Then refill fresh Oil at top and replace seal and "O" ring and your done!!! Best to just remove them though.

REPLY IF YOU HAVE A QUESTION!!! even if it to tell me this DYS lay out sucks! I may understand it but you may be wondering what I am saying...

[SilverBeo]

Silverbeo, did you ever see the Volkswagon Idiots book? Write it like that, and maybe I can do it as well!

Ok - Here is how to remove the Forks from the Beo:
Click on the Photo


1. Remove Plastic Front panel w/Headlight - 2 small screws & 2 BROKEN lower plastic hooks
2. Remove the 2 bolts holding brakes and remove them off rotors and place some support for them to keep from hanging.
3. Place something under front of Beo to support it with tire off ground.
4. Remove small bolt in front of main bolt holding tire, Then remove main bolt and remove tire.
5. Remove front fender/splash guard & side shock/fork guards.
6. Remove thin ring around top of fork and then remove bolt that tightens fork into place.
7. Pull (Down) and out/off Fork.
Now your ready to work on forks. Took 10 min to do all the above! used mm allen hex and a small wrench so far.
I will update more friday with Photo's had to stop as I look for (VISE) NEEDED to do Fork work from here.
Skipped it - had my son hold forks and we did it without VICE!
8 ounces = 236 ml A hair under 8 ounces will do perfect!!!
You DO-NOT need to do all that stuff on youtube just to add FORK OIL - Just remove retaining seal & Circlip "O" ring on top of forks and pour out Old/bad Oil and replace!!! Easy as pie...
Just push down on the Seal like in video and remove the circlip-steel "O" ring and release then PUSH forks from bottom of forks and "POP" off top seal and remove spring! NOTE: Cover the top seal with free hand as spring may pop off seal real hard and splash Oil every place!!!
If you are adding new Fork Oil seals you need to do more or want to clean all parts off but not just adding the fresh Oil.
Just make sure all old oil stops draining out - That for me was just under 8 ounces...
I too had lots of rust making one fork seal HELL to come off, I used WD-40 to clean up rust and it worked well. That is truly all there is too it,,,
I am Done - Now just need to re-assemble....
Here are some Photo's:
http://img169.imageshack.us/img169/8611/1000436me6.jpg
http://img516.imageshack.us/img516/3723/1000435xf8.jpg
http://img291.imageshack.us/img291/9497/1000432uo0.jpg
http://img404.imageshack.us/img404/418/1000433fo1.jpg
http://img205.imageshack.us/img205/9062/1000434ee3.jpg
http://img88.imageshack.us/img88/4391/1000437ai1.jpg

[SilverBeo]

You should do a Fork Oil change every 4 years or 18,750 miles "BUT" I say WAY sooner!
Got to get out and test Forks today and the over all feel, First I found the bike more balanced at a stand still - "Just taking it off the center stand" WEE HEE - Then duck waddling it back ward and turning the front wheel back and forth was easyer as well as forward. Next going at low speeds (10 mph or less) - before the bike in "SHARP" turns felt as if it was pulling over on its side - Now it is way better by far.
Over all - I feel as if I have 20 times more control "mostly in turns" but I feel more stable in the wind and way less twitchy, If you have a 04 or 05 and have never done a fork oil change now is a good time! It feels way safer in all conditions.
Lucky my seals were both still good so Oil was all I needed and in two years if I still have the Beo I will get new Seals and do it all over again for sure!!!

Thanks for your reply on how much Oil was needed! I found 8 ounces was 236ml its a easy way to remember...
I also should add that when I got the Beo the seller told me the front felt off and needed to be looked at and it could be just it needs new Oil, So I went near a year before doing it and as it was - was the ONLY way Iv known it to feel and ride (NOW) I feel as if it was a whole new Bike...

[zane]

I've been thinking about the way the forks are assembled, and I can't help but wonder if you could simply loosen the bolt on the underside of the fork so that the head of the bolt is about a quarter inch below the fork. At that point, you could push the bolt head upward and I think the oil will drain out of the fork. There is a threaded insert located inside the slider that the bolt threads into that would hold the oil inside the fork. If the insert is pushed upward, the oil would probably drain out of the tube. To put fresh oil into the tube, all you would need to do is to remove the headlight assembly and tilt the front wheel to one side. This would expose one of the caps so that you can depress the cap, remove the retainer clip, and remove the plastic cap. At that point, you could add the fresh oil...after the lower bolt is tightened. I also found my seals to be in excellent condition (16k miles). I'm probably going to try this at the 24k mark. I noticed that now since I've ridden the scooter for a couple hundred miles, the front forks are beginning to 'loosen up'. I used a 20w oil, the next time I'll use a 30w.