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Thread: Cored Pipes. How did you do it?

  1. #1
    apriliaforum Junkie
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    Cored Pipes. How did you do it?

    I got 2.5" stainless steel perferated cores and used a cheap muffler transition from the 3" to 2.5".

    I DID NOT remove any material from the cat sleeve, or the transition. The whole thing was maybe 6-6.5" long.

    The result? FREAK'N loud! I love the sound, but unless you have music playing it's untolerable. It's rude and offensive, but great fun! When warmed up and idling it sounds like a hot cammed muscle car and mutes all other bikes that pull up beside me. Most harley's prove no match for the shear harsh, throaty crackle of the RSVR at idle.

    Only problem is unlike excessive sound tickets, scared old women, and headache's, my hearing can never be returned to normal.

    When you guys cored you exhaust, did you cut down the cat sleeve and transition to keep the perf area as long as possible? I think my perf. pipe was 20" long, I maybe cut 1 to 1.5" off that, however a decent length actually went into the transition. I figure there is around 12" of actual baffled pipe on these things.

    Just looking for your opinions.

    Thanks,

    Quinn

    Ps: I should also mention that if you ride under tight overpasses you can feel your hair vibrate in your helmet. One of my buddies who owns a RSVR with Arrow pipes said he couldn't ride it anymore because the pressure on his eyeballs gave him a headache! haha.
    2005 RSV1000R
    - Cored Slip-ons
    - Dark double bubble windscreen
    - Gearing change
    - High flow filter
    - Whole lot of piss and vinegar.

  2. #2
    apriliaforum Junkie
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    Also, for those looking for an informative post on actually HOW to core the pipes, I will see if I can do a write-up with all the pictures I took. I did this some time ago, but because it's now winter here I have time to post.
    2005 RSV1000R
    - Cored Slip-ons
    - Dark double bubble windscreen
    - Gearing change
    - High flow filter
    - Whole lot of piss and vinegar.

  3. #3
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    cored pipes

    I'd be interested to see that since i attempted this a while ago on a spare set of cans i had, i couldn't even get the end caps out of the dang things so i set them aside.

  4. #4
    apriliaforum expert Apriliain's Avatar
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    Ok, here is a how to core your cans my way, did them last weekend, so here we go.

    First remove cans carefully and use a 6mm drill bit to remove the 15 pop rivets in each can, this includes the one on the mounting strap, you will need good sharp drill bits and probably about 4 off them, the rivets are sore on them, just drill the rivet tops off and the rest of the rivet falls inside the can, they will be removed later.





    once all rivets are removed the next step is to remove the link pipe end, i used a large screwdriver for this, but i would use something a bit less prone to mark the metal.

    I would like top point out that as my cans were for a track bike i was not to worried about some scratches or marks etc., so it is worth taping up the can sleeves with duck tape or similar to protect them from marks etc



    Once this is removed you will see the cat (honeycombed part) which is a pain to remove, the platinum is bloody hard stuff



    To remove the cat i used a good sharp cold chisel and went round the edges and went deeper and deeper with the chisel till the cat broke away from the casing, clean the inside of the casing to remove most of the platinum as this is where your core will insert.







    this is the cat removed and you can see the inside of the casing





    Next step is to remove the end cap the same way, the end cap has all the silencing core attached to it, this will come out in one piece when the end cap is removed



    Now remove all exhaust packing and put to the side, don't destroy this as it will be used again
    Warning-the packing is nasty stuff, wear gloves and a mask as this stuff will go for you



    at this stage you should have this



    now for the cutting, the end cap has to be cut from the rest of the silencing core, you need to cut at the back of the weld (towards the rear of the can), you should cut at an angle as can be seen from these pics





    what you need to end up with is the end cap removed as can bee seen here



    once this is done you will need to tidy up the end cap edges so it is neat and not covered in sharp edges, i used the die grinder and a dremel to finish it off.

    You should now have the link pipe, the clean end cap, two straps, the sleeve and the packing.

    Next stage is to drill four 3mm holes in the sleeve where the cat came out of, the new core slips in here and i attached it with 4 small self tappers as can be seen here



    the new core has to be cut to size for the can and will also need to be cut at a slight angle to fit neatly into the end cap, there is a bit of trial and error required here to get the correct size for the new core, the new core should fit snugly inside the end cap spout, you might need to grind away small bits of weld inside the spout to allow the new core to fit as it is a tight fit, this becomes apparent as you do the job.

    I did all my cutting and put the whole thing including the sleeve together a few times to get the correct length for cutting the new core, as i said trial and error here and patience.

    Once i had the core cut and fitted correctly i then wrapped the old sheet of packing round the new core tightly and used a fine copper wire to bind and hold in place as can be seen here



    next stage is to wrap the new packing sheet round the old stuff you have just put on, again wrap tightly and secure with a fine wire or similar



    now slide the sleeve back on and centre the core so that it will fit inside the end cap, if you have gaps in the sleeve you should pack them with packing



    and then push the end cap into place making sure the core is fitting snugly inside the spout as can be seen here



    now you need to make sure the sleeve is seating and lining up correctly with the holes in the link pipe end and the end cap itself, once this is good then slip on the strap and start fitting your new rivets and then remove your protection tape and admire your handywork.



    Fit them to the bike and be prepared for some music





    Notes on tools required for the job, Drill and bits, die grinder, pop riveter, rubber mallet, claw hammer, pliers, screwdrivers, cold chisel, good gloves as there is a lot of sharp metal at stages throughout, goggles, dremel if you have it, it is handy for cleaning metal up etc., duct tape and patience.

    Parts required, i bought two cores at 600mm long by 2.5" in diameter(i am sure 500mm would be enough length) two rolls of packing and you will need 30 4.8mm rivets, i think aluminium is probably best as they are easier to remove again if need be

    i bought all my parts from these guys at a cost of 34 plus postage

    http://www.performanceracingparts.co...ucts.asp?cat=3

    They are pretty loud as you would expect because you have just built yourself a race can with a 63.5mm core and spout, it is fairly easy to do, but you do have to have a knack for working with tools etc.

    Happy coring
    I used to be indecisive......now i am not so sure

  5. #5
    apriliaforum Junkie
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    Great write up. Did mine the same, however to cover the gap from the 3" cat sleeve to the 2.5" core, I used a transition which took away about 3-4" of perforated pipe.

    I'm not sure, but I think that change made mine LOUD! The whole reason for this was to increase the sound from my SP Akra's. I surely got the noise! haha. Too much =)

    I might take mine apart and shorten the sleeve and transition to gain a couple inches of perf pipe distance.

    Oh yea, I also recommend a respiratory mask. I'm not sure what's in the CAT for metals/chemicals, but I know it's probably not healthy. I used a carbon canister w/ cotton pre-filter mask. I also used it while grinding.
    2005 RSV1000R
    - Cored Slip-ons
    - Dark double bubble windscreen
    - Gearing change
    - High flow filter
    - Whole lot of piss and vinegar.

  6. #6
    apriliaforum newb
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    Nice guide - is there any potential to leave the cats or part of the silencer in there, making it abit louder, but not quite as crazy as completely straight pipes?

  7. #7
    apriliaforum Junkie
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    Quote Originally Posted by putty_thing View Post
    Nice guide - is there any potential to leave the cats or part of the silencer in there, making it abit louder, but not quite as crazy as completely straight pipes?
    There have been people who have left the cat in there.

    If you're also handy and have a welder you could put an arch (or angle) on the perf pipe that would dampen the sound too.

    There are ways of tuning it. I feel I will have to take mine apart to lengthen the cored section over winter. I haven't gave my buddy's grinder back just yet =)
    2005 RSV1000R
    - Cored Slip-ons
    - Dark double bubble windscreen
    - Gearing change
    - High flow filter
    - Whole lot of piss and vinegar.

  8. #8
    apriliaforum prov-nov
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    Rivet

    Where can you get the blind rivets and installation tool in the states?
    2007 RSV 1000 R

  9. #9
    apriliaforum Junkie
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    Quote Originally Posted by mesulli View Post
    Where can you get the blind rivets and installation tool in the states?

    I couldn't find blind rivets anywhere locally and I searched hard. The only blind ones I could fine were aluminum and I wanted stainless steel.

    I went with normal rivets and so far so good. I have a few hundred KM on them and not one centre has fallen out.

    The rivet tool can be found at any hardward store. Most come with different ends (not sure the proper word) so different size rivets can be used.
    2005 RSV1000R
    - Cored Slip-ons
    - Dark double bubble windscreen
    - Gearing change
    - High flow filter
    - Whole lot of piss and vinegar.

  10. #10
    apriliaforum expert fast4d's Avatar
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    where can I purchase perforated tubing in the US? I need some 2" perf pipes to recore my KTM exhaust. TIA.
    Alan
    2011 KTM RC8R
    2012 BMW S1000RR (engine #2)
    2013 KTM SMT 990

  11. #11
    apriliaforum prov-nov
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    End Cap

    Boy the cats were a pain to get out!!! About an hour each of pounding.

    How the heck do you get the end cap where the exahust exits the can off of the can? I have obviously removed the rivets and strap, but the end cap won't budge. I don't want to scratch it either.

    Thanks in advance.
    2007 RSV 1000 R

  12. #12
    apriliaforum prov-nov
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    Rivets

    OK - I'm ready to put the pipes back together. Now I just need to figure out what size rivets I need.

    What size rivet do I need in US measurements? The ones that I looked at have both a diameter and length.

    Thanks in advance for your help. I'm looking to knock this out tonight and get her back on the road.
    2007 RSV 1000 R

  13. #13
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    Shit,, I'll have to check as I forgot.

    What I did was measure the existing ones that were drilled out and get the shortest dimension possible (most are longer).

    The cats are a huge pain. My second one took half as long as the first (isn't it always like that?) but it's still not a fun job.

    Like I stated to begin with, I suggest trimming down the transfer pipe and the cat pipe unless you want a LOUD bike. I'm still debating if I want to tear into these pipes before spring.

    By LOUD I mean like painful to ride without hearing protection. I'm almost embarassed to start it in front of the coffee shop in fear of scaring people. haha. It does sound good when it's good and warm and it idles down though. It sounds like an agresively cammed twin engine with it's crackling deep exhaust note that shakes the cars beside it. I also beleive it's louder to ride it then hear it go by. Strange how that is sometimes that bikes can be this way, or the opposite where it's quiet on bike, but loud to people you pass..

    I'll have to get a better idea by letting my buddy (who also owns an RSVR with Arrow pipes) to ride by on it. I know when we switched bikes I would have thought it would be a lot louder sounding, then again Arrow's aren't quiet either!.
    2005 RSV1000R
    - Cored Slip-ons
    - Dark double bubble windscreen
    - Gearing change
    - High flow filter
    - Whole lot of piss and vinegar.

  14. #14
    apriliaforum Junkie _CD_'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mesulli View Post
    OK - I'm ready to put the pipes back together. Now I just need to figure out what size rivets I need.

    What size rivet do I need in US measurements? The ones that I looked at have both a diameter and length.

    Thanks in advance for your help. I'm looking to knock this out tonight and get her back on the road.
    I'm going to core my pipes soon. I'm going to get the rivets from Mossback. You can get the tubing there too but it's much less expensive at here. Someone on the Tuono forums provided that info for me. HTH

  15. #15
    apriliaforum expert Crazy Horse's Avatar
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    Someone did it the easy way and bought the set I had. I sold the header pipes and cored cans for a total of get this....











    $150.00

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