I disagree, what are we supposed to believe caused the seal failure in the first place? And how catrastophic are we expecting said suspected failure to be?
Why did the bike run at first then cut out, never to EVEN COUGH again?
Re. Fuel, you would literally have to put more fuel in than the combustion chamber can hold in volume. Then it all has to flow through the carb, reeds, and still it ALL has to be blasted up the transfers in enough volume to be damaging, it wont atomize in this way either, and will most likely wet the plug causing it to missfire for some time afterwards. Not to mention massive loss through the open exhaust port. Don't buy this to be honest
I've got no idea mate
only thing I could think of is that when I took it for a test ride the extra compression coulda fucked them (rpm 8,000+)
The guy at the shop was the one to suggest the seals, I mean the bike did idle quite nice when I first started her up and since the test ride and cut out
it hasnt been able to idle
there is no change in pressure on the seals with varying rpm. I would not be splitting it just yet.
I think you will find not a lot of bike shops will work on RS125, they are hard to set up and diag problems than say a 4 stroke.
I would say 100% not crank seals, i have stripped lots of RS125 engine and very very rare you will see a crank seal gone.
Get them to do a comp test to see what PSI it has?
Sending the engine to me may not be the answer as i can only check that it is all mechanical sound so if you do send it and it is ok then you have wasted your time and money.
Now if you can get the bike to me then that would be better
Hope this helps
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so i dont know how much fuel was put into it, althought i would reckon on newer bikes you are very unlikley to bend a conrod!
the bike i seen it done on was a 125 scrambler that was older than me! so it may have been a results of years of abuse or even a fracture in the rod i have no idea! i wasnt very old when i saw it! and like all thinks you are told when you are young you just believe them without questioning them!
but it is a good way to get fuel into the engine to test if its seals or not!
could still b an ignition problem, the cdi/coil/mag could be at fault, and even tho theres a spark, it may not be at the rite time or big enough. also check ur killswitch for corrosion, i saw a very similar fault on a Aprilia mojito and it was down the a rotten killswitch, check all ur wiring for corrosion. i doubt its the seals.
2000 Triumph TT600, Powerbronzeblack DB screen, hugger
and seat cowl, metzeler racetec tyres.
1998 reg RS125 SP, Polini 154cc Big Bore Kit with extra work on ports, Full arrow Kevlar system, 34mm polished Carb, Powervalve, Skidmarx matt blue screen, Blue vinyl seats, custom decals, Continental Contiforce tyres, hand made stainless steel braided hoses, carbon reeds,
To come: New Contiforce SM tyres, piperx cone filter, recon forks, ISR Radial master cylinder, Gilles Rearsets, front and rear wavy discs.
1985 Honda Cub90 totally original and i know your jealous
I would prefer to send u my bike PJ as the problem is really beyond me
the thing is I cant figure out why it started did a block and then cut out
and wouldnt start again
Does anyone reckon its worth sticking the old stuff back on first?
Have you tried chas bikes, grt suffolk st, se1?
I've never had any problems with chas down there, and hes bloody reasonable!
I think its his carb
This is a bit of a long shot but a friend had an RS125 and even though he was getting spark, changed the plug after advice and it started perfectly. This old guy said to him that spark plugs wear out and even though it was sparking, when plugs become old and fouled, it takes more power to spark well.
Anyway, just wanted to mention it as a long shot if the other things don't work out.
its an eltrical ignition right, not a distributor. possibly the sensor has failed. or is covered in crap.
im only guessin its a DIS system so dont know if this is relevant.
Originally Posted by kd sweety