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Thread: LED Signal Fix.........

  1. #1
    apriliaforum expert KbomonFalco's Avatar
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    LED Signal Fix.........

    As many of you may have found out, we cannot simply remove the stock bulbs and replace them with LED indicators. The usual fix is to install load resistors in parallel with the LED’s. The problem stems from the fact that Aprilia elected to use a single turn indicator lamp. This bulb will tie the left and right circuits together and cause both indicators to flash. The following instructions will show an easy way to fix this problem. Minor electrical skills are a plus. I chose to solder all of my connections and used heat shrink tubing to protect any exposed wiring.

    The following parts are required:
    2 each IN4005 Diodes. Radio Shack p/n 276-1104 (Or any 4000 series 1A diode)
    1 each Electronic LED Flasher Unit. I used p/n CF12ANL-01, purchased from Superbrightleds.com (Known good alternate is FL-32)

    Gain access to the rear connector of the instrument panel. You will need to remove the windshield and dash cover at a minimum. I removed the headlight and upper cowling assembly to make things easier. It is a good idea to disconnect the battery before removing the 20-pin connector. Loosen the black zip ties and pull back the connector hood. Remove the black sheathing from the connector wire harness with a pair of scissors or equiv.

    Locate the light blue (pin 16) and red (pin 17) wires. These wires will be cut, and the two diodes will be installed. Cut these wires approx. two inches back from the connector. Install the diodes on the ends that go into the harness, with the stripe end pointing away from the wire.

    Wrap the opposite end of the diodes together and solder to the red wire that is sticking out of the connector (pin 17).

    The light blue wire that is sticking out of the connector (pin 16) will be connected to the blue/green wire (pin 15). This will be the ground return for the indicator lamp.

    Temporarily hook up the connector and reconnect the battery. It’s a good idea to test everything out before final assembly. If all is good, shrink down your heat shrink tubing.

    I wrapped the wire harness back up using electrical tape. Re-secure the harness using the factory zip ties. I also used an extra one just to tidy things up. Note that I have also installed a HID headlight kit, so it may look different than yours.

    The flasher unit is located in the left rear cowl. It is the furthest back in the row and the easiest to get at. (Located in the nose section forward of the dash on an RSV)

    For those of you that can read a wiring diagram, I have attached the modified circuit.

    Hopefully this will help some of you. It’s too late for Ghostrider71. Sorry I didn’t get to this sooner Nate


    K-Bom
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    Last edited by KbomonFalco; 04-21-2011 at 11:15 PM. Reason: Added additional information

  2. #2
    apriliaforum expert CamDLux's Avatar
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    Kick ass. This is exactly what I was waiting on before a full LED swap.

  3. #3
    apriliaforum expert go_modem_go's Avatar
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    Why so complicated?

    My rear indicators are LED Miniovals.

    Front indicators are exactly the same style & make, but the Minioval version with small 21 Watt halogen bulbs (up from 10W OEM).

    Guess what - it worked instantly, even with the OEM bimetal tick-tack relay

  4. #4
    apriliaforum expert KbomonFalco's Avatar
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    GMG,
    You do not have a full LED circuit. The new bulbs you put in front will equalize the current load and appear stock to the circuit. This mod is only required if you go to a complete LED system. The advantage is that you reduce the load on the electrical system by approx. 20 watts.

    Besides, LED's are cool

  5. #5
    apriliaforum expert go_modem_go's Avatar
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    LED's are indeed cool!

    Quote Originally Posted by KbomonFalco View Post
    GMG,
    You do not have a full LED circuit. The new bulbs you put in front will equalize the current load and appear stock to the circuit. This mod is only required if you go to a complete LED system. The advantage is that you reduce the load on the electrical system by approx. 20 watts.

    Besides, LED's are cool
    I did the LED rear-only for a reason - to avoid all this fiddling, and to have bright, all-angle front indicators (very important with all those stupid cagers around, as LED's do not have the same light-emitting angles as normal bulbs...)

    LED's are indeed cool - I reduced the current draw by well over 45 Watts as well, by mounting that brilliant nooj LED board for the rear light - and that's more important, as those 2x 21W brake lights and 2x5W rear light are always in operation :




    Tackled this one yet? It's easy, as there are no relays to take care off. Fit & forget.


  6. #6
    apriliaforum expert KbomonFalco's Avatar
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    Nooj me

    I would like to get "Noojed" someday. That was a cool mod. I settled for replacement 1157LED sockets for now.

    I agree with you on the visibility issue up front. I've gone with the Mad Doctor jobs up front, and they do a nice job IMHO.

  7. #7
    apriliaforum expert Lttlcheeze's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by KbomonFalco View Post
    As many of you may have found out, we cannot simply remove the stock bulbs and replace them with LED indicators. The usual fix is to install load resistors in parallel with the LED’s. The problem stems from the fact that Aprilia elected to use a single turn indicator lamp. This bulb will tie the left and right circuits together and cause both indicators to flash. The following instructions will show an easy way to fix this problem. Minor electrical skills are a plus. I chose to solder all of my connections and used heat shrink tubing to protect any exposed wiring.

    The following parts are required:
    2 each IN4005 Diodes. Radio Shack p/n 276-1104
    1 each Electronic LED Flasher Unit. I used p/n CF12ANL-01, purchased from Superbrightleds.com

    Gain access to the rear connector of the instrument panel. You will need to remove the windshield and dash cover at a minimum. I removed the headlight and upper cowling assembly to make things easier. It is a good idea to disconnect the battery before removing the 20-pin connector. Loosen the black zip ties and pull back the connector hood. Remove the black sheathing from the connector wire harness with a pair of scissors or equiv.

    Locate the light blue (pin 16) and red (pin 17) wires. These wires will be cut, and the two diodes will be installed. Cut these wires approx. two inches back from the connector. Install the diodes on the ends that go into the harness, with the stripe end pointing away from the wire.

    Wrap the opposite end of the diodes together and solder to the red wire that is sticking out of the connector (pin 17).

    The light blue wire that is sticking out of the connector (pin 16) will be connected to the blue/green wire (pin 15). This will be the ground return for the indicator lamp.

    Temporarily hook up the connector and reconnect the battery. It’s a good idea to test everything out before final assembly. If all is good, shrink down your heat shrink tubing.

    I wrapped the wire harness back up using electrical tape. Re-secure the harness using the factory zip ties. I also used an extra one just to tidy things up. Note that I have also installed a HID headlight kit, so it may look different than yours.

    The flasher unit is located in the left rear cowl. It is the furthest back in the row and the easiest to get at.

    For those of you that can read a wiring diagram, I have attached the modified circuit.

    Hopefully this will help some of you. It’s too late for Ghostrider71. Sorry I didn’t get to this sooner Nate


    K-Bom
    Just to clarify... With this method, Resistors are no longer necessary? Correct?
    '03 Falco Bought New on 4/6/07:
    Custom paint, Powder Coated RSV Swing arm, RSV Shock, Anodized Rear Sets, Ti Hardware, Anodized (Blue) Fork Caps, SL Carbon Cans, SL Carbon Chip, Custom Airbox w/ K&N Filter, Evo Clutch Slave Cyl., CF Front Sprocket Cover, Rear Hugger, & Chain Guard, GP Shifter, Tuono Rear Brake Master Cly., Evo Clutch Slave Cly., Evo Fender Eliminator, RSVR Mirrors (custom mounts), Custom Blue Dash, HID Headlight, Smoked Tail Light Lens, Integrated Turn Signals into Taillight, LEDs in Headlight & Taillight, LEDs Thru-out, SuperSprox +2 Rear Sprocket, Ariete Grips... (i'm sure there is more)

    Bill

  8. #8
    apriliaforum expert KbomonFalco's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lttlcheeze View Post
    Just to clarify... With this method, Resistors are no longer necessary? Correct?
    You are correct. With this mod, you can use LED signals without the load resistors.

  9. #9
    apriliaforum expert ZeroTwoRSV's Avatar
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    Damn you all, now I have a new winter project!

  10. #10
    apriliaforum Member NYRider's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by KbomonFalco View Post
    You are correct. With this mod, you can use LED signals without the load resistors.
    Does this mod retain the flasher indicator light on the dash too?

    This looks to be exactly what I need. As the previous poster said, this will be a fun winter project. Now I just need to pick out some nice LED turn signals.

    Thanks for the writeup.

  11. #11
    apriliaforum expert ghostrider71's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by NYRider View Post
    Does this mod retain the flasher indicator light on the dash too?

    This looks to be exactly what I need. As the previous poster said, this will be a fun winter project. Now I just need to pick out some nice LED turn signals.

    Thanks for the writeup.
    THat's the SOLE purpose OF this write-up.

    gr
    Since it was highly recommended, I put THEGEEK on ignore and the forum IS a much nicer place!!

  12. #12
    apriliaforum Member NYRider's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ghostrider71 View Post
    THat's the SOLE purpose OF this write-up.

    gr
    I guess I didn't read the first paragraph of the OP too closesly. I just skipped down to the good stuff, and it is very good stuff

    Thanks

  13. #13
    apriliaforum expert Lttlcheeze's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by NYRider View Post
    Does this mod retain the flasher indicator light on the dash too?


    Quote Originally Posted by ghostrider71 View Post
    THat's the SOLE purpose OF this write-up.
    gr
    But will it still work if the Dash Bulb is changed to an LED?
    '03 Falco Bought New on 4/6/07:
    Custom paint, Powder Coated RSV Swing arm, RSV Shock, Anodized Rear Sets, Ti Hardware, Anodized (Blue) Fork Caps, SL Carbon Cans, SL Carbon Chip, Custom Airbox w/ K&N Filter, Evo Clutch Slave Cyl., CF Front Sprocket Cover, Rear Hugger, & Chain Guard, GP Shifter, Tuono Rear Brake Master Cly., Evo Clutch Slave Cly., Evo Fender Eliminator, RSVR Mirrors (custom mounts), Custom Blue Dash, HID Headlight, Smoked Tail Light Lens, Integrated Turn Signals into Taillight, LEDs in Headlight & Taillight, LEDs Thru-out, SuperSprox +2 Rear Sprocket, Ariete Grips... (i'm sure there is more)

    Bill

  14. #14
    apriliaforum expert KbomonFalco's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lttlcheeze View Post
    But will it still work if the Dash Bulb is changed to an LED?
    Yes, as long as you install a 12v LED or current limiting resistor. Just remember that LED's have a polarity... so you'll have to make sure it's installed correctly. You could always swap pins 16 and 17 if needed.

    This mod allows you to get rid of those clunky load resistors and reduce the overall current draw of the flashers.


    K-Bom

  15. #15
    apriliaforum prov-nov Aphex's Avatar
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    Maybe a stupid question but is it possible to use a 1N4004 rectifier diode instead of the 4005? Thanks for a great how to anyway

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