Howdy, glad to have stumbled across this site. Just went off and got rid of the oil can light after viewing how to's. (came on 40k's after 2nd serv)
I have '06 sxv450 in vic (rural) oz. I never received a manual and have since moved interstate. I downloaded one a while back but have since read here that there are discrepancies on oil type, how to drain and levels. Please explain, it's very cold here at the moment - does that matter with oil in these machines?
very cold...HA...poor Aussie - Ask Olof about what cold is.
This weekend
Tri nations; AB's 1, Wallabies 0
and while your at it throw in an America's cup
It's been discussed in several threads here and there is some different opinions but . . . . . I'd say remove the engine oil drain plug on the left side (the gear box one is on that side too, the engine one is the most forward one), drop the filter cover on the right side, remove the 19mm FCV drain plug on the bottom side of the engine and you may also want to remove the oil tank plug to get a couple extra cc's of the old stuff out.
Be sure the plug and spring go back into the 19mm FCV bolt before reinstalling and check the plug for any nicks or scratches. Replace if necessary and polish the plug before the install to assure that it won't be sticking during opreration.
Tilt the bike on it's left side to reinstall the filter, drop in 100cc of oil before putting the filter in and be sure you install the spring on the filter before putting the filter cap back on.
You may also want to get the aluminum filter cap from AF1 as the standard one is not good for many reuses.
Oh yea, fill the tank back up until the oil level is within the min/max mark on the site tube located on the right side of the steering head. Be sure the bike is warmed up and check it while the engine is at idle to make sure the oil level reading is correct.
Enjoy!
Last edited by MMM Racing; 06-29-2007 at 04:27 AM.
'07 SXV550
'04 Buell XB12S
'02 Yamaha FZ1
Originally Posted by MMM Racing
You did mean (put the remaining 1150cc of oil in and ignore the tube)
To change engine oil:
1. Remove the belly pan.
2. Put a really big baking tray/whatever under the bike.
3. Remove the oil filler cap on top of the oil tank.
4. Remove the engine oil sump plug (which is next to the gearbox oil plug and is nearest to the front of the bike).
5. Remove the engine oil tank plug.
6. Remove the FCV plug at the bottom of the crankcase. There is a spring and a piston. If the piston does not come out use a small bolt to tease out FCV piston.
7. If the FCV piston is at all scored throw it away and replace it with a new one (hopefully polished or coated).
8. Remove the oil filter and throw it away but don't lose the spring!
9. Check all crush washers. If they're at all near their 'crush' limit then replace them. They cost nothing.
10. Put the engine oil sump drain plug (4 above) back in and torque up to 18Nm.
11. Put the engine oil tank drain plug (5 above) back in and torque up to 18Nm.
12. Put the FCV plug (6 above) + spring + piston back in and torque up to 20Nm.
13. Measure 1250 ml (cc) oil into a container.
14. Put the bike on its left hand side on a couple of tyres ( to avoid breaking the direction indicators) and pour about 100ml (cc) oil into the oil filter cavity (8 above). And a bit of oil into the centre of the new oil filter.
15. Push the new oil filter (8 above) into the filter cavity - the open end of the filter goes towards the centre of the engine. Insert the filter spring onto the outer end of the new oil filter. Screw the oil filter cover back on gently by hand (avoiding cross threading) then torque up to 25Nm.
16. Get the bike upright again and pour the remainder of the 1250ml (cc) oil into the oil tank filler.
17. Screw the oil tank filler cap back on.
-
To change transmission oil (assuming you've already followed at least 1. and 2. above)
1. Remove the transmission oil filler cap on the right hand side of the bike.
2. Remove the transmission oil sump plug (which is next to the engine oil plug and is nearest to the rear of the bike). It's a long bolt type thing.
3. When the oil has dropped out (takes 1-2 minutes) replace the transmission oil sump plug (replacing the crush washer if it's at all dodgy) and torque up to 18Nm.
4. Put 525 ml (cc) transmission oil into the transmission oil filler.
5. Screw the transmission oil cap back on.
(ps don't bother with the oil level screw in the transmission casing, just leave it alone - less change of stripping the thread)
Enjoy
Last edited by irie; 06-30-2009 at 10:40 AM. Reason: Added transmission oil change procedure (thanks Mooseknuckles!)
Nahh, if I'd have meant that I would have said that
You did mean (put the remaining 1150cc of oil in and ignore the tube)
.
Ok, really now, if you change the oil as to how the "owners" manual says, which only states the oil drain plug and filter be removed for draining, you will end up with the oil in the oil line window as specified when filling the system back up using 1250cc of oil. Note the manual doesn't even mention the removal of the 19mm plug for the FCV or the oil tank plug. Now we all know that removing the 19mm plug and the oil tank plug will net more oil drained from the engine, therefore a bit more may be required to bring the level back up into the min/max range of the oil check tube.
In the "engine" manual for the SXV/RXV's it states 1300cc for a change and 1400cc for a rebuild. So there are discrepencies in the printed materials published for our machines.
Now, the way these engines do use small amounts of oil, how would you know that it is if you have no way of checking the level? The tube is the key to knowing how much oil is in the system and if it needs any or uses any. I check mine at every fill up and it will be down a few cc's sometimes and I have had to add oil to bring it back up on occasion.
I mean no argument
'07 SXV550
'04 Buell XB12S
'02 Yamaha FZ1
Aprilia updates to dealers specify the correct oil change procedure.
In this respect the SXV/RXV Users Manual is about as accurate as the Old Testament.
9. Check all crush washers. If they're at all near their 'crush' limit then replace them. They cost nothing.
i haven't none of them on my bike..
i only had the engine oil sump plugs but with no crush washers...
my sxv 550 got stolen
i would like to take that manual and beat the hell out of the person who wrote it.
1st oil change ended up w/god knows how much oil in bike cause didnt say to drain the tank and i didnt think to do it. how do you screw up what is probably the most important part of the entire manual, then continue to publish it for over a year?
i guess because most of the non racing users take the bike to aprilia centers
to keep the warranty.
if no one tell aprilia that.. i think they'll still publish it..like it is now.
How could anyone not drain the oil tank???
Why would you need someone to tell you to drain it? Its right there, forward of the engine, its where you put the engine oil in!!!
Thats right, lets blame the Company, Lets sue
Come on, a little common sense please...
Aprilia real failure here has been the lack of a Motorcycle Basic Maintenance IQ test they should have required buyers to pass before allowing a sale.
AHRMA#45
Wera#8
most people dont deserve these bikes
Well, some have probably not encountered a dry sump system before. Further, with one bike I owned, the sump drained through the engine. This person obviously knew their shortcoming and consulted the manual--which is wrong. How can you fault someone for that?
I'm crazy I guess!
Its an oil tank with the oil fill on top and a drain in plain sight on the bottom. Ask yourself folks, If this is where I pour the new oil in, might you want to drain it during an oil change???
How could I fault someone for not seeing the obvious. Easy. Hey, I know this is Crazy thinking around here so call me crazy!
I'm new to the SXV, but it was obvious from the beginning of my research before I took the leap that this machine was advanced ownership. I have no doubt I'll have problems at some point and I may very well need the expert advice of some of the long term SXV owners on this forum. But come on, draining an oil tank with a drain plug in it!
Damn Aprilia, damn them to hell...
Hopefully the HMS Beagle is going to sail into this SXV forum, because Darwin still has some work to do around here.
AHRMA#45
Wera#8
Unlike you, I do not happen to believe that it is unreasonable to expect that the User Manual which accompanies the motorcycle should document the correct oil change procedure.How could anyone not drain the oil tank???
Why would you need someone to tell you to drain it? Its right there, forward of the engine, its where you put the engine oil in!!!
Thats right, lets blame the Company, Lets sue
Come on, a little common sense please...
Aprilia real failure here has been the lack of a Motorcycle Basic Maintenance IQ test they should have required buyers to pass before allowing a sale.
I know this might be an almost religious revelation to you, but not all Aprilia motorcycles are sold to boring old farts like you who know everything.
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