• to fix V4 leaky valve covers -- new part #s listed

    getting lots of emails on this....

    new part #s
    898410 x qty 6 seal washer
    897443 x 2 valve cover gaskets
    857074 x 4 spark plug galley gaskets

    bare minimum to try to fix leak

    they did also revise the covers themselves....all 2011 and up bikes should already have these.
    898407 x 2 updated valve covers for R model or 898467 x 2 for the Factory models, these are magneisum ones

    3bond sealer is recommended too, along with reading the tech bulletin (that we cant post)
    This article was originally published in forum thread: to fix leaky valve covers -- new part #s listed started by Ed / AF1 Racing View original post
    Comments 18 Comments
    1. TOP-APE's Avatar
      TOP-APE -
      What is the bulletin number or title?




      Never mind... found it.
    1. Micah / AF1 Racing's Avatar
      Micah / AF1 Racing -
      The repair job took about three hours in total, would have been shorter but three hours in the shop heat right now is equal to at least a gallon of water consumed by me and that takes some time too. Worked like a champ, not a dribble at 13k for one minute at full load on the dyno...wait till you see the pics of the exhaust system under those conditions!
    1. Rsv0702's Avatar
      Rsv0702 -
      Thanks guys, stopped my leaking covers.
    1. slrkappa's Avatar
      slrkappa -
      I am waiting for two weeks to get my 10 RSV4 Factory in to get my valve covers changed out. I am at 15k+ so I wanted to get it in for valve checks anyways. My front and rear valve covers have leaked a bunch. Very disappointing to say the least. GP in SD quoted the job would take 3 hrs as well.
    1. shegotpop's Avatar
      shegotpop -
      ...at 13k for one minute at full load on the dyno...wait till you see the pics of the exhaust system under those conditions!
      pics pics pics!!
    1. TMTerror's Avatar
      TMTerror -
      Quote Originally Posted by Ed / AF1 Racing View Post
      getting lots of emails on this....I added this to tech tips.

      new part #s
      898410 x qty 6 seal washer
      897443 x 2 valve cover gaskets
      857074 x 4 spark plug galley gaskets

      bare minimum to try to fix leak

      they did also revise the covers themselves....all 2011 and up bikes should already have these.
      898407 x 2 updated valve covers for R model or 898467 x 2 for the Factory models, these are magneisum ones

      3bond sealer is recommended too, along with reading the tech bulletin (we cant post)
      So glad I came upon this thread. Was about to go out for a ride today when I started to a see a little bit of smoke coming up through the triple clamps a few seconds after start up. Turn the bike off to investigate and found a very minor or slow leak from what looked to be the front valve cover.

      Shitty to say the least cause I only have 4k miles, but I wouldn't trade my '10 for any other bike.

      I have all the parts added in the cart already along with some block off plates...might as well you know.

      Anyone do this job in their garage yet, cause I don't want to take to a dealer. Like to work on my own bikes, just wondering how labor intensive it will be.

      Thanks!
    1. Westy's Avatar
      Westy -
      I just finished doing this today... It took me about 6 hours though some of that time was figuring out how to remove the air box. The front valve cover was a huge pain in the ass. I had to remove both side fairings, unbolt the top of the radiator to allow for some more room to work...and remove the left hand radiator fan just to be able to disconnect the hose that runs over the top of the valve cover. Also, my tank has expanded a bit and it took me about 30-40 minutes to wrestle it back into place to get the front bolt in. If she starts leaking oil again I may cry heh
    1. apriliadude's Avatar
      apriliadude -
      is it too much to ask for a step by step since I think getting handy with the bike would benefit me in the long run?
    1. TMTerror's Avatar
      TMTerror -
      Quote Originally Posted by Westy View Post
      I just finished doing this today... It took me about 6 hours though some of that time was figuring out how to remove the air box. The front valve cover was a huge pain in the ass. I had to remove both side fairings, unbolt the top of the radiator to allow for some more room to work...and remove the left hand radiator fan just to be able to disconnect the hose that runs over the top of the valve cover. Also, my tank has expanded a bit and it took me about 30-40 minutes to wrestle it back into place to get the front bolt in. If she starts leaking oil again I may cry heh
      You are the man Westy! Just the post I was waiting for. I'm ordering all the new parts for this same job tomorrow. A buddy and I are going to tackle probably next weekend along with a case of beer. If no one posts a pic step by step before I do, I will. 6 hours!?!?! Dayum...do you need any special tools for this...any bolts with specific torque specs?

      Thanks Westy!
    1. apriliadude's Avatar
      apriliadude -
      much appreciated in advance for that step by step!
    1. cones's Avatar
      cones -
      is this a warranty issue? shold i worry about it at 1000 miles?
    1. Westy's Avatar
      Westy -
      Cones, it should only affect 2009-2010 model years I think...mine started seeping oil around 4k miles and actually dripping down the side of the engine at 6k.

      TMTerror, I didn't have to use any special tools. The service manual was very useful for learning how to remove the air box.
    1. Nuttzzy's Avatar
      Nuttzzy -
      I'm at 3k miles on my '12 and have this problem I think. pretty good amount on the right side of the engine about middle engine
    1. TMTerror's Avatar
      TMTerror -
      Nuttzzy - Surprised your '12 has this issue.

      Here is my write up I did on this job, with a couple of additions since everything was apart:
      http://pnwriders.com/projects/184591...uddle-oil.html

      Some good pics for display, but I should have taken more for this reason...like pics of block off plates, leakage of the front valve cover. When everything was apart, I started to think less about pics when I started assembling...just wanted the damn thing back together again.

      hope this helps...anyone with a little knowledge of basic building should be fine. No special tools, but then again...all tools become special when you don't exactly have all of them. Lots of trips to the hardware store.
    1. comfysofa's Avatar
      comfysofa -
      Sitting down last night with a mug of tea and tablet to catch up on stuff....read this thread and thought ill go and check mine (late 2009 factory)...yup - mine looks like its/they've gone....and heres my predicament....

      1. TT in 3 weeks time. Im quite sure the bike shop wont have the parts.
      2. Assuming they wont will I be able to get away with it for the up and coming journey....I reckon about 700 to 1000 miles round trip.
      3. I only looked from reading this thread ( and a good thing too )
      4. Oil level is fine checked it recently. Theres no oil on the floor below the bike hence not noticing it...

      So, to summarize - should I be ok? - obviously if they've got the parts then ill fit them which beckons the last question....ive had the top of it off before (tried to fit a bazzaz last year which I didn't know was faulty) so ive been down to the throttle bodies....how much more is there to go after that? I can see a series of wires and pipes - from the pipe point of view is there anything pressurized? ie do I have to drain the cooling system cos if I do then ill get some samco hoses on order as well...

      If I can take it to the TT as is then that'd be better as I was planning a strip down anyway not long after I get back....

      If anyone can offer up some advice that would be peachy - cheers

      Comfy

      Just to add ive checked with the local bike shop - they've got the everything bar the rocker cover heads....whats the difference between the old standard head and the revised head...? ie can I do the job with just the gaskets and seals and use my existing heads or is would that be pointless...not trying to be cheap - ive got no problem ordering the heads but they wouldn't be here before I have to go to the TT.
    1. comfysofa's Avatar
      comfysofa -
      Anyone, looking for some help/opinion?
    1. TMTerror's Avatar
      TMTerror -
      If it's leaking, I would not ride it…especially on your planned road trip.
    1. comfysofa's Avatar
      comfysofa -
      Quote Originally Posted by TMTerror View Post
      If it's leaking, I would not ride it…especially on your planned road trip.
      What about doing the gaskets as a temporary fix?

      Does anyone know the differences between the old and the new part?

      Just to add ive got all the bits I need bar the covers. Thought about a "test strip down" to familiarize my self with the top of the engine....does the head cover need to be torqued down on replacement ?

      Im assuming at this point I need some sort of manual - anyone point me in the right direction??

      The problem is TMTerror is that the ferry is booked and ive got a mate im going with so im kinda going whether I like it or not, just trying to prepare it as best as I can.
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