This is not intended to be a step by step how to V4 valve adj procedure, just some observations that may help others.
Iíve checked and adj the valves on a few customers RSV4s, but until yesterday Iíve not had to adj the front bank, only the rear.
This latest bike was a shocker, with only 2,900 miles, 9 out of the 16 valves were out of specs towards the loose side.
Some were .05 - .10mm beyond the specs but one IN valve on #2 cyl was at .65mm clearance, that's 1/2mm beyond tolerance
This was the first V4 motor that I had to remove all four cams to adj everything back to specs.
I found out that the Aprilia supplied cam timing/alignment tools were not designed to fit on the front bank of cylinders with the motor mounted in the chassis.
Bellow are photos of the modifications I had to make in order to fit the alignment tools on the front bank of cylinders.
This latest bike was also the first valve adj Iíve performed on an APRC motor, there is one important step not mentioned in the service manual.
The early motors had one-piece EX cam gears, while the later motors use a spring loaded two piece gear designed to reduce gear lash noise, same as used on Shiver motors.
Basically, the new two piece EX cam gears are sandwiched together with three springs between them, the springs apply pressure that cause the EX cam gears to rotate against each other.
This preloads the gear teeth to eliminate any play where the IN and EX cams mesh together, thus reducing noise.
What is not mentioned in the service manual is that before removing the EX cam you should insert a 6mm pin to lock the EX gear halves in position, thus preventing the springs from forcing them apart.
Though not completely necessary, inserting the lock pin makes it a lot easier when re-assembling the cams and aligning up the timing marks.
One last thing I found out is that having three of each size valve shim is not enough.
For this motor I needed four 2.70mm shims and I had to run down to my local KTM dealer and buy that fourth shim.
Photos showing cam gear holding tool modified/ground down to fit on front cyl bank, crank locking pin modified to fit on LH side without removing flywheel and cam gear alignment pin bent to clear frame rail on frt bank.
I've attached a valve log sheet (my wife made it for me) that I use to take notes and write down the clearance values with the shim sizes I used.
Print it and record your adjustments so you can compare them to the next valve adj in 12k miles.
RSV4 Valve adj log.pdf