So now that we are finally getting the Tuono V4 here in the USA I am guessing the next few months are going to see a HUGE spike in the sale of Tuono V4 pipes from all manufacturers. This is a simple DIY thread about how to install you r own pipe in only a few minutes at home. Most of you probably need no guide but for those who are on the fence about whether or not this is something the average Joe/Jane can pull off at home hopefully this will help you decide. The first step is to get the bike secure, either on it's sidestand, a rear stand or a workbench. Most of the job is VERY straightforward but at least on the last two pipes I installed there was no real "manual" so I thought this might be of interest.
I do not have pics from installation of the Akro/Aprilia/Arrow/Austin/GPR/etc just yet but as you guys get those pipes add pics to this thread so if there are differences in the install process they can be seen by all. Basically what I am getting at is that this install series I am writing today covers ONLY the Leo Vince pipe for SURE, it probably also covers other pipes however.
Step one: Visualize your bike with a pipe...mmm, is it black? Carbon might be a good styling choice right? We shall use that color bike for this example but I will post pics of both the Ti pipe equipped yellow one I did this week and the black with CF pipe I also did on Saturday. To help you visualize we shall start with a couple of sample pics...
This is the yellow Tuono V4 with the Ti Leo Vince pipe:
This is the black Tuono V4 with the same pipe but in Carbon Fiber.
Both are obviously good looking and anything you do to make this motor sound better nets HUGE gains in aural pleasure!
When you open the box that arrives from Leo Vince this is what you will find inside:
Once you remove all the packaging this is what you will find from that same box:
There are some optional parts included by Leo Vince which include a carbon pipe hangar if you decide to ditch your passenger pegs or are using this in a track-only application. Pictured is the hangar and the hardware associated with it which will be left-over if you are using your stock passenger footrests to hand the new pipe from!
These are all the tools you will need to complete the job:
The stock muffler is held onto the chassis and headers by a combination of two bolts and a compression fitting the joins the stock muffler to the stock collector set, it has a 10mm hex drive screw that forces the clamp closed or when loosened allows you to move the muffler away from the header after the other bolts are removed, this is the first item you are looking for:
A 10mm socket on a long extension is how I like to get at this one, notice the orientation of this bolt, as you will want the same orientation for the new compression fitting on the aftermarket pipe:
The next bolt to go after is a 6mm Allen head bolt that is basically hidden from view if you are on the pipe side of the bike. It is very short and only screws into a rubber damper on the stock exhaust bracket. Remove it now, simple enough!
Plenty of room to get at it, no worries there and it is easy to see from the opposite side fo the bike if your head is low enough:
Now, onwards to the obvious bolt, this is the last one to remove. Your 6mm Allen driver and a 13mm box end wrench will come in very handy at this stage. Once this bolt is removed with the compression fitting at the header already loosened the pipe will be free to slide off, it may require a little more effort than expected or may not...I was working with brand new bikes both times so the assumption is that with age and mile racking up they will be a little harder to remove:
This is the simple removal process:
This is one area where I am not sure if all aftermarket pipes are the same. The bracket that joined the chassis to the exhaust can be removed when installing the LV pipe. I see no reason to keep it on the bike as after removing the stock pipe it no longer performs a function other than adding a small amount of ballast to the machine:
Now gently grasp the stock pipe and wiggle and twist and whatnot to get it moving off the stock collector pipe. It is not nearly as heavy as I expected. Just be very careful during this portion of the job to make sure you do not scratch up your new toy! Here I am removing the pipe:
The bike now looks like this:
I like to reuse the stock bolt that was used by Aprilia for the top pipe mount to fill in the hole left when removed, added ballast yes, but so stylin' for a fancy washer....
Now...you get to finally install a part, the link pipe. Just slip it over and make sure there is only enough tension on the 5mm Allen bolt that tensions the slip joint to keep it basically in place:
Wondering what in the hell this part is as you unpacked your goodies we shipped you? Wonder no more, it will make perfect sense in only seconds!
Well Aprilia was nice enough to leave pre threaded 8mm holes in the back side of the passengers footrests, before you add anything it looks like this:
That bracket has a home! At this point you need to install that little bit of alloy and the short 6mm Allen (8x1.25mm thread) bolt that came with your exhaust kit:
Slide the silencer strap over the silencer and look closely at how the rubberized edges fit, only one way is right and it will be pretty obvious, there are no marks however to confirm you have it right. This is also the point where you will start to see the reasons all those little alloy bits and that long 6mm bolts were included in your exhaust kit. Just loosely fit the strap and pipe at this point:
This next picture shows the correct stacking order as best I can tell for the assemblage of smaller bits....
Now you can start tightening stuff down and pulling the springs into place. Make sure the link pipe is fully seated and the silencer is fully seated onto the link pipe. once the silencer is tightened to the bracket you can go back and tighten the top clamp on the link pipe where it joins the stock collector set.
You are so close to done now you can feel it...BUT WAIT...there is one more very important step if you want it to look good for years to come, or at least not have bodily oils baked into your new metal goods! Break out a good polishing rag and a nice paper towel, i prefer paper but it does not really matter and hose it down with WD40...yes, I mean it, do it!
Now use that rag/towel to clean EVERYTHING you touched with your hands that will be at 700-900 degrees in a few minutes! It gives the metal a nice finish as the oil cooks into it, and removes all your fingerprints before massively cooking them!
Now, go ride the damn thing! If you have updated mapping and leave the db killer in place the bike compensates pretty well and sounds killer but not a LOT louder than stock, If you remove the db killer it gets WAY louder than stock under load! This is what you have to look forward to once mounted in a visual sense. I am done for today...been at this photo edit since 9am with over 900 pics spread between 4 memory cards from the last week, time for a killer dinner! I earned it this week!