• AF1 Racing 2012 RSV4-R APRC Racebike Build

    Doing this project for a customer on the East coast.

    brand new 2012 RSV4R in black

    adding
    Catalyst Bodywork
    Leo Vince full system
    Race Mapping
    Ohlins cartridge kit for the Sachs (just arrived in USA)
    Ohlins TTX shock Gen 2
    Ohlins damper
    520 chain kit
    Rizoma rearsets with a GP shift mod
    GB case guards -- both sides
    Graves framesliders
    safety wire, coolant flush

    got it all torn down, and have been working on the build back up the past few days. I weighed it completely stock with battery (no gas), and passenger pegs, and it weighed 446 lbs. Curious to what it will weigh when we are done.



    some pics....I forgot to take a picture all-stock, but here they are:

    This article was originally published in forum thread: a AF1 Racing 2012 RSV4-R APRC Racebike Build started by Ed / AF1 Racing View original post
    Comments 77 Comments
    1. slrkappa's Avatar
      slrkappa -
      That's a LuiMoto seat cover. I have one and love it. I have noticed my Red stitching has started to fade a bit though.
    1. motopup's Avatar
      motopup -
      Quote Originally Posted by slrkappa View Post
      That's a LuiMoto seat cover. I have one and love it. I have noticed my Red stitching has started to fade a bit though.
      Ta, I would be a bit worried about the white fading or getting dirty too easily.

      Ill look into one, looks great!
    1. motopup's Avatar
      motopup -
      Another question...how does the suede fair in sunny weather? Always been worried thaat it might go glossy and break up??
    1. RSV4JESS's Avatar
      RSV4JESS -
      Very Nice!!! Nice pics too. I'm starting with a 2012 RSV4 Factory and have thus far added a Graves (cat eliminator) titanium with CF wrapped (silencer)(if you can call it that, heheh), and am waiting for the arrival of: factory race ecu, Light Tech Limited folding rear sets, chain adjusters and both clutch and break levers, factory CF fairing panels right and left, factory race ecu, factory crash pads, Marchizini magnesium forged wheels (10 spoke), Galfer racing wave routers, Zero Gravity Corsa windscreen and lots of protective pieces as I find and research them. This might end up being even more exotic than any of my previous Japanese bike builds. Certainly more so than my 2011 S1KRR but surly not as fast. Already, however, my favorite bike... Well, along with my 2008 B-King.
    1. Dissident's Avatar
      Dissident -
      Quote Originally Posted by Ed / AF1 Racing View Post
      put the V regulator at the very front along with APRC box

      zip tie the regulator to the front of the upper bracket, for the APRC box, I just took off the horn from its bracket, and mounted the APRC box there with one nut/bolt....its secure

      Ted just copied me on a racebike he is building, and I kind of like his wire routing a little better....I had the APRC wiring going along the subframe neck with the regulator wiring, and he kept just the APRC wiring lower under the damper not zip tied to the neck with the regulator wiring.
      aha! Been searching the threads to figure out where to put this stuff. Thanks!
    1. STAYCOOL's Avatar
      STAYCOOL -
      Hi, What is the brand of the front sprocket (with holes) are you using?
    1. Ted / AF1 Racing's Avatar
      Ted / AF1 Racing -
      Quote Originally Posted by STAYCOOL View Post
      Hi, What is the brand of the front sprocket (with holes) are you using?
      It's either an AFAM or Esjot 520 depending on what's in stock at the time (both are great and last forever) - http://www.af1racing.com/store/Scrip...idproduct=3179
    1. STAYCOOL's Avatar
      STAYCOOL -
      Quote Originally Posted by Ted / AF1 Racing View Post
      It's either an AFAM or Esjot 520 depending on what's in stock at the time (both are great and last forever) - http://www.af1racing.com/store/Scrip...idproduct=3179
      Thanks Ted
    1. Dissident's Avatar
      Dissident -
      What did you bolt the seat too? I can't get the tail even close to getting over the OEM bracket.

      Quote Originally Posted by Ed / AF1 Racing View Post
      got the weight down to 420lbs, same fuel load as pre-build

      With a bit more money and lots more time, I bet we could get one to 400 lbs. There is lots of extra wiring on these bike for a racebike build. Lightweight clip-on, real forged magnesium wheels would save a bunch over these cast alloys, along with more alloy fasteners in non-critical areas, and maybe some Ti bolts on the big bolts and axles. Factory magnesium covers, and run no framesliders
    1. Ed / AF1 Racing's Avatar
      Ed / AF1 Racing -
      Quote Originally Posted by Dissident View Post
      What did you bolt the seat too? I can't get the tail even close to getting over the OEM bracket.
      Cut the back tabs off the oem seat bracket and use different head bolts to remount it....seat bolts on just like oem, and you can get the tail on.
    1. Chaotic's Avatar
      Chaotic -
      Yep, that is what i had to do. I had to cut that tab off on the bottom side and still had to get kinda rough with it to get it in place. I had to use zip ties to get the battery cables out of the way. Which reminds me, why did they run some of the wires on the inside of the subframe, protected, and then some not? I thought they might have just slid up there. But they are actually connected, then run across/over/outside the subframe, then back under the seat.

      That Catalyst tail section is a real pain in the ass. So much so, that might bike will likely never see the street again. I just don't feel like fucking with all the bodywork again.
    1. RRD's Avatar
      RRD -
      Once I got it on and off the first couple of times for fitment, I don't find it too big a hassle to remove/remount. I took a dremel to those tabs and it made a huge difference getting the tail on.
    1. Chaotic's Avatar
      Chaotic -
      It usually does get better after a while. The bodywork will stretch/form and get easier. I noticed it the first time i took the lower off again after it had been installed for several days. It was easier to get back into place and bolted on the 2nd time.
    1. Pete Gala's Avatar
      Pete Gala -
      Man I wish you guys could get racers edge bodywork. It's a work of art. No. Fitment issues. I mean 0! I had to grind 3mm off the rear to allow a little clearance under the tab and that's only cause. I'm anal and wanted it perfect otherwise straight fit!
    1. 42Simpson's Avatar
      42Simpson -
      Quote Originally Posted by Pete Gala View Post
      Man I wish you guys could get racers edge bodywork. It's a work of art. No. Fitment issues. I mean 0! I had to grind 3mm off the rear to allow a little clearance under the tab and that's only cause. I'm anal and wanted it perfect otherwise straight fit!
      Hey Pete. How much was the tail unit?

      Paul
    1. Pete Gala's Avatar
      Pete Gala -
      Hey Paul it was $350. Worth every cent my man.
    1. Dissident's Avatar
      Dissident -
      Quote Originally Posted by Chaotic View Post
      Yep, that is what i had to do. I had to cut that tab off on the bottom side and still had to get kinda rough with it to get it in place. I had to use zip ties to get the battery cables out of the way. Which reminds me, why did they run some of the wires on the inside of the subframe, protected, and then some not? I thought they might have just slid up there. But they are actually connected, then run across/over/outside the subframe, then back under the seat.

      That Catalyst tail section is a real pain in the ass. So much so, that might bike will likely never see the street again. I just don't feel like fucking with all the bodywork again.
      Haha I had the same thought! I didn't want to cut the tabs, but after talking with some guys, I came in from above over the frame, it chipped a bit of the bodywork, but then flexed the back down over the subframe and it finally popped over the tab in the stock undertail, and now it's on there perfectly. With only a few million scratches on the stock tank. Ooops, it's not THAT bad but it's on! Thanks, guys!