• AF1 Racing 2012 RSV4-R APRC Racebike Build

    Doing this project for a customer on the East coast.

    brand new 2012 RSV4R in black

    adding
    Catalyst Bodywork
    Leo Vince full system
    Race Mapping
    Ohlins cartridge kit for the Sachs (just arrived in USA)
    Ohlins TTX shock Gen 2
    Ohlins damper
    520 chain kit
    Rizoma rearsets with a GP shift mod
    GB case guards -- both sides
    Graves framesliders
    safety wire, coolant flush

    got it all torn down, and have been working on the build back up the past few days. I weighed it completely stock with battery (no gas), and passenger pegs, and it weighed 446 lbs. Curious to what it will weigh when we are done.



    some pics....I forgot to take a picture all-stock, but here they are:

    This article was originally published in forum thread: a AF1 Racing 2012 RSV4-R APRC Racebike Build started by Ed / AF1 Racing View original post
    Comments 78 Comments
    1. igotyofire's Avatar
      igotyofire -
      Quote Originally Posted by resqav8r View Post
      Courious .. the "APRC box" is it a contained plug-n-play system? Does that mean it can be retro fitted to a 2010 non APRC RSV4? I assume the APRC is worth the money or is there a benefit to be without?
      If you want APRC you are better off selling your bike as is & buying a new one which will be cheaper then trying to APRC equip your bike.
    1. illtal's Avatar
      illtal -
      Quote Originally Posted by igotyofire View Post
      If you want APRC you are better off selling your bike as is & buying a new one which will be cheaper then trying to APRC equip your bike.
      This is true... I wouldn't do it... do full bazzaz with tc it will never be the same as the APRC, but if you want TC that's the easiest way to get it other than buying a 2011+ bike
    1. potere's Avatar
      potere -
      Ed already posted some numbers on retro-fitting APRC on a '10. The loom has to be replaced along with adding the gyros, the CPU, the paddles on the left clip-on and the wheel sensor rings and wires.
    1. illtal's Avatar
      illtal -
      Quote Originally Posted by potere View Post
      Ed already posted some numbers on retro-fitting APRC on a '10. The loom has to be replaced along with adding the gyros, the CPU, the paddles on the left clip-on and the wheel sensor rings and wires.
      and what was the grand total?
    1. Ed / AF1 Racing's Avatar
      Ed / AF1 Racing -
      put the V regulator at the very front along with APRC box

      zip tie the regulator to the front of the upper bracket, for the APRC box, I just took off the horn from its bracket, and mounted the APRC box there with one nut/bolt....its secure

      Ted just copied me on a racebike he is building, and I kind of like his wire routing a little better....I had the APRC wiring going along the subframe neck with the regulator wiring, and he kept just the APRC wiring lower under the damper not zip tied to the neck with the regulator wiring.
    1. Ed / AF1 Racing's Avatar
      Ed / AF1 Racing -
      got the weight down to 420lbs, same fuel load as pre-build

      With a bit more money and lots more time, I bet we could get one to 400 lbs. There is lots of extra wiring on these bike for a racebike build. Lightweight clip-on, real forged magnesium wheels would save a bunch over these cast alloys, along with more alloy fasteners in non-critical areas, and maybe some Ti bolts on the big bolts and axles. Factory magnesium covers, and run no framesliders
    1. Ed / AF1 Racing's Avatar
      Ed / AF1 Racing -
      Quote Originally Posted by illtal View Post
      and what was the grand total?
      about $5K.....sell your bike and buy a new one....that's about the difference in bike prices, and you start with a new bike. The parts list for a APRC conversion is over the top.
    1. tharkun's Avatar
      tharkun -
      Thanks for posting Ed! Never thought about the horn mount.....now what did I do with the bracket......hmmm.

      What brand of battery did you use to replace stock one?
    1. boostenmkiv's Avatar
      boostenmkiv -
      Looks like a ballistic 12cell

      Quote Originally Posted by tharkun View Post
      Thanks for posting Ed! Never thought about the horn mount.....now what did I do with the bracket......hmmm.

      What brand of battery did you use to replace stock one?
    1. illtal's Avatar
      illtal -
      Quote Originally Posted by boostenmkiv View Post
      Looks like a ballistic 12cell
      It's a 8 cell... there is only 4 humps on the front. I have this one
    1. Ed / AF1 Racing's Avatar
      Ed / AF1 Racing -
      yes, 8 cell Ballistic with an Alien Motion foam holder.

      Starts it fine, i'd go 12 cell on a streetbike though.
    1. tharkun's Avatar
      tharkun -
      Strictly a track bike Ed.

      Thanks,

      v/r Leland
    1. mike70's Avatar
      mike70 -
      Nice bodywork Ed..... who'd you kill to get it!!! I guess there's no one racing these bikes in the states because no one carry's stock of it...!
    1. resqav8r's Avatar
      resqav8r -
      Quote Originally Posted by potere View Post
      Ed already posted some numbers on retro-fitting APRC on a '10. The loom has to be replaced along with adding the gyros, the CPU, the paddles on the left clip-on and the wheel sensor rings and wires.
      Thanks for all the inputs .. kinda what I thought. I had warmed up to the idea of an '10RSV4F but wasn't sure if I wanted/needed APRC (still not sure) but after reading the comments guess I will enjoy the new map Ed loaded for me during this season and wait to get a newer RSV4 with APRC later down the road.
    1. boostenmkiv's Avatar
      boostenmkiv -
      Any concerns with the regulator burning the plastic zip ties? I only ask because I know it gets hot, but don't know HOW hot it actually gets...especially in a spot that "may" not get as much air cooling as the factory location. I like this spot you've chosen, just wondering if I should maybe use safety wire instead.

      Thanks!
      Mike

      Quote Originally Posted by Ed / AF1 Racing View Post
      put the V regulator at the very front along with APRC box

      zip tie the regulator to the front of the upper bracket, for the APRC box, I just took off the horn from its bracket, and mounted the APRC box there with one nut/bolt....its secure

      Ted just copied me on a racebike he is building, and I kind of like his wire routing a little better....I had the APRC wiring going along the subframe neck with the regulator wiring, and he kept just the APRC wiring lower under the damper not zip tied to the neck with the regulator wiring.
    1. Ed / AF1 Racing's Avatar
      Ed / AF1 Racing -
      Quote Originally Posted by boostenmkiv View Post
      Any concerns with the regulator burning the plastic zip ties? I only ask because I know it gets hot, but don't know HOW hot it actually gets...especially in a spot that "may" not get as much air cooling as the factory location. I like this spot you've chosen, just wondering if I should maybe use safety wire instead.

      Thanks!
      Mike
      Does not get hot enough to melt zipties....I used the thickest ones I had....ours made it all season mounted there.....cools decently there.
    1. slothfryk's Avatar
      slothfryk -
      I second Ed's comments. I've got my reg mounted in the exact same position with an almost identical zip-tie configuration. Haven't had any problems at all.
    1. Rugbydawg13's Avatar
      Rugbydawg13 -
      Why not the Alien Motion? Am I missing something here? Just curious.
    1. Ed / AF1 Racing's Avatar
      Ed / AF1 Racing -
      Quote Originally Posted by Rugbydawg13 View Post
      Why not the Alien Motion? Am I missing something here? Just curious.
      just business reasons....they kept selling them online cheaper direct to customers than to us, their dealers...we got stuck with overpriced inventory....bad pricing policy. Ballastics are sold in the PU catalog, super easy and quick to get.
    1. Rugbydawg13's Avatar
      Rugbydawg13 -
      OK. Thanks. I just bought one and was afraid I might have gotten a lemon after the previous comments. So far, it's been solid except for trying to start in sub-40 weather but that's the weak side of all LiFePO4 batteries. Cool build. Keep us posted on the progress.