View Full Version : Adjusting CO question
JP_TUONO
08-16-2006, 03:05 AM
Hi I have a question,
Once the cylinders are balanced with the vacumn gauge,does the MAP sensor has to be connected to the vacumn hoses at the tee and to the ECU to adjust the CO on the trim pots or must be left disconnected from the system?
The MAP sensor measures the intake pressure so the ECU can calculate the amount of fuel to add at idle and low rpm so it makes sense to connect it.which is the right way to do it?.
Thanks
JP_TUONO
09-11-2006, 11:09 AM
nobody.....?
Ed / AF1 Racing
09-11-2006, 03:48 PM
i leave the MAP connected, and pull vacuum off the right side ports
JP_TUONO
09-11-2006, 04:54 PM
i leave the MAP connected, and pull vacuum off the right side ports
Thanks Ed,thatīs the way I was doing it,just wanted to hear other opinions,thereīs no mention in the workshop manual about this point,or I least I didnīt find it.
Ed / AF1 Racing
09-11-2006, 09:03 PM
and if the bike has an open top race style airbox, I also close the gas tank...
I try to simulate actual running conditons as much as possible when synching.
JP_TUONO
09-12-2006, 05:57 AM
I´m doing it that way too,thanks again.
Gabro
01-01-2007, 08:14 AM
My 2 cents:
everyone has his own metodh to do TB synch... from my experience I can says that vacoumn check is totally useless. That engine has to work unbalanced :) with the front cylinder way "stronger" than the rear.
No way to do a perfect work if your not using a good CO reading equipment. With some experience you can rouhgly set it by ear but usually that resuls in an unperfect mixture, generally too rich on both cylinders (with low mileage)
JP, try to set the bypass screw at 2.5 turn on the front and 1-1.5 at the rear, trick with both bypasses and the timmer on the ECU (those are very sensitive) to make the engine idling fine and regular to you ear at very low speed without the help of the idle set-screw. after test the engine in a "fast idle" condition, holding it at around 25000 rpm with the "choke" lever; the engine have to keep the speed without sneeze or missfires.
If you have CO reading equipment the work is more or less the same, a "good ear" is always needed.
Remember to do not run the engine above 90C... the ecu start to compensate the haet in excess increasing the fuel. a fan in front of the radiators or just manually start the engine fans (add a jumper on the thermostat) help to have more time.
Hope this help,
Gab
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