View Full Version : What should I look for when buying an RS250 ?

03-08-2003, 03:34 PM
Hello guys & girls:

I'm getting the RS250 very soon, maybe in acouple of weeks, a month or two, but since im not expirienced with rs250's what should I check about the bike and what should I ask ?

The bike is a 99' V reg with 5000kms on the clock.

many thanks :)

03-09-2003, 04:30 AM
erm any1 ?! :rolleyes:

03-09-2003, 11:36 AM
Have a look at the hero blobs!;)

03-09-2003, 07:10 PM
hero blobs ? what's that ot where can I find it ?


03-10-2003, 05:17 AM
hero blobs are The little metal blobs that are fixed on the
foot rests.
If they have any skuffs on you will know that the bike has
been ridden very hard.;)

03-10-2003, 05:40 AM
ah LOL, thank you for that it's much apreciated ;)

03-10-2003, 07:57 AM
I wouldn't let scraped hero blobs put you off buying a bike. Lets face it, the rs is designed to be cornered hard and fast and revved too. thats why you've got one yourself!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! If the tyres have 'kin great chicken strips at each edge and the blobs aren't worn, chances are the engine won't have been given a good enough revving and will be a bit coked up.

Check the frame and forks for any sign of damage and ripples in the finish. Also, check wheel bearings and the rims for damage.

Assuming it runs and you test ride it and the box seems ok then go for it. Even if the top end needs overhauling or the clutch is worn, they're cheapish and simple to work on.

03-10-2003, 08:01 AM
the engine im sure you know, but have a look at the oil filler bolt, if its drilled its been raced, then tyres for chicken strips, forks for oil seal loss, front brake rotors for endo or haga style braking, chain and sprockets for slack and shark teeth. ooh, and the steering stops, they always forget to fix them if its gone up the road................, do the panels all match perfectly, have the panel bolts had a bit of use??? has the rear spring been adjusted on a daily basis. i personally think when you buy a 2 stroke, factory standard is best, any "hot" port jobs etc.. just walk away. TOO HARD..... and if you still want it, whatever is his absolute final lowest price, take off 10% and watch the bastard squirm.:D

03-10-2003, 08:28 AM
I am not saying to the man dont buy an RS if the hero blobs are skuffed.
Just look at them and it will give you some sort of idea
on how the bike has been ridden:)

03-10-2003, 08:44 AM
i've never really understood what looking at tyres is supposed to show the perspective buyer, other than a very general indication of how well the onwer can ride...

it's really quite possible to rear-wheel-steer (ok maybe not an RS;) ) everywhere, have no chicken line, brake hard for every corner & well maintain the m'cycle just as it's possible to ride it very slowly, never lean it over & never service it, never clean it, wait for things to break to change them.

some (not an exhaustive list) things to watch when buying ANY bike:

a) dirt - any fcuk can throw a bucket of soapy stuff over a bike 10 minutes b4 u turn up to view it, but it's a LOT harder to get into the nooks n crannys - check behind fairings, check around the undertray - how dirty is it?? was this bike washed only once ever about 10 mins ago or been washed every sunday since new...???

b) abuse: dont check chicken, it tells u nothing (if the tyre's heavily *bobbled* or even peeling its been raced or track dayed = most likely track dayed) - look for tiny particles of rubber (usually little balls) around the shock or if fitted around the hugger - these are hell to shift & are indicitive of burn outs - hey OK we all love a big smoke, but if its been burn outed/dounuted a lot what else has it done? three figure speed wheelies/rolling stoppies dont do the forks/st head bearings, drive chain, primary drive, cush drive any long term favours... Check the chain - how is it? is it brand new? how olds the bike? a brand new chain already???? another sign of abuse.... maybe also the bike is <4000miles old & the chains / cush drive fuct.. another sign of abuse...!!

c) crash: anyone can pick up the blower with their visa card & order a new fairing panel - u need to check steering lock stops, fairing mounting brackets, the ends of the axles (nearly always over looked in a crash)

d) get a HPI check -dunno what this is called stateside- but you NEED this & is worth 40 of ne1s money

e) take a buddie - hey man u get round the store or private addy, they wheel out the bike, ur eyes light up - its sold to you. Get a buddie who will drag u away (kickin n screaming if necessary) coz its a heap n ur too bessoted to see it!!!

I will assume that u are ofay with checking bearings, tensions, free play, rattling noises etc etc so I wont mention them, but obviously check that shiat out too.

ok soz 4 the long one, but if it helps - coolio!

03-10-2003, 09:13 AM
:rolleyes: . My point about them was that I wouldn't give a toss if the blobs are scraped and there are no chicken strips. When you're buying a new bike you wanna know whether its a piece of crap or not, not whether tyres need replacing or whether its been ridden as it was designed to be ridden.

Adam's other points about things to look for a very useful. If i had taken mate with me to buy my bike, I wouldn't have bought it!!!!!!!!!! However, the frame, forks, wheels are straight and all the bits that should be there are, so anything else is just a case of parts and labour.

In other words, if you find a fault, so long as its not major and you think you can sort it by buying and fitting replacement parts then go for it and make sure you reflect those items in the price you pay.

Maybe we should start a chicken strips topic - seeems to have generated some response!!

good luck and remember buying a bike is like shagging an ugly woman - doesn't seem to bad at the time but you might wake up the following morning and deeply regret it


03-10-2003, 10:21 AM
what you have got to ask your self do i spend over 2000
on a RS with f$$ked hero blobs knowing 2 well that
has been ridden like a bitch. "No thanks"
Its OK buying a RS250 for 1000 with f$ked blobs because
you get what you pay 4.
Its all about how much you are paying for the bike
London lad.:)

03-10-2003, 12:29 PM
prev msg:

Unregistered User
(3/10/03 9:21:30 am)
Reply blobs
what you have got to ask your self do i spend over 2000
on a RS with f$$ked hero blobs knowing 2 well that
has been ridden like a bitch. "No thanks"
Its OK buying a RS250 for 1000 with f$ked blobs because
you get what you pay 4.
Its all about how much you are paying for the bike
London lad.

Dude as a general rule you have to buy the best condition bike u can afford.

eg suppose u look at high mileage rattly RS for (say) 1500, well by the time you've changed (ok worse case scenario) the tyres, pads, disks, chain, sprockets, cush, pistons, plugs, engine gaskets you've probably spend another G, not to mention your time + stress & if u use a shop, then ur looking at (prob) 500 just for a top end (say 250 if u buy the bits n do it ur self), so the money stacks up very quick & generally there's only a grand between a 10,000 mile 1996 chesterfield & a 6,000m 2001 harada....

i'd buy as best condition as i can find unless - its a veritable & verifiable 'steal' & ur very confident about doing the work yourself..

IMHO a 2 stroke is such a highly strung bit of kit that i'd only buy new as just one crap owner can cause a life time of faults.......

just my 2 cents

03-10-2003, 12:53 PM
Couldn't agree more about the above. I paid 1000 (you must be a clarevoyant) for my bike, which was not pretty when i got it, though straight. I'll spend about 600 on various parts and do it all myself.

Thats my choice and after a few weeks of messing around I'll have a cool track bike thats only done 4,000 miles for 1600.

Yep, i could buy a high mileage 98 model for 2000-2400 which will need work sooner or later. Or I could pay 2800 for a late model with v low mileage and just hop on a ride but I wanted a project.

Down to the individual.

Go for it RS man, spend what you want to but get value

03-10-2003, 02:13 PM
A ratty high milege RS for 1500:lol:
1500 is a years wage were i come from lad
I would want a car as well for that sort of money:lol:
I know RS250 Keep there value but not that much

03-10-2003, 02:25 PM
Apt name. Where do you come from funny boy

03-10-2003, 02:29 PM
:eek: From England Y You ask lad

03-10-2003, 02:36 PM
I gathered England up north ??

Where can you get these dirt cheap rs's then. Can you share it with us??

03-10-2003, 02:55 PM
That would be telling:p

03-10-2003, 05:11 PM

Key Walshe
03-10-2003, 08:56 PM
Beanarillo, check BikeTrader, seems LOTS of cheap Rs250's on there! I know a few aswell trade going cheap, 96 Chesterfield it's up for 2k, he offered it me for 1700 and all I did was say that's nice :lol: a nice handful of notes, say 1500 and that's a steal... full service history, UK bike, looks clean for age and all standard. Interested? (and it ain't mine, mine's a keeper, well for a few months atleast...)

www.performancemotorcycles.co.uk I think is the website, it's an import place he said he took it as p/x! He seems a nice fella, I know a few people who've bought from him recently with import jap bikes and had no problems at all. It's up near Blackburn, Darwin I think it is...

03-20-2003, 10:57 AM
I would ask the owner a lot of questions about how he/she rode it. Find out if this is there first 2-stroke (has the motor been overreved). Next, have them pull the lower/plastics and tank off (if they can't, find out who works on it for them). Open the airbox and check the air filter (if none found, walk away). Look for holes in the watercap for safetywiring. Check the six? cables for exessive wear including the ends by the cylinders. Check the radiator for repairs and feel around the hose connections for flat spots on the necks (crash). Check the frame, engine case, and wheels for scratches/dents (crash). Look for new clipon/rearsets and ask to see the old ones (crash). Check the battery for acid drainage (crash). Check the flange where the exahust stingers bolt to for flatspots (crash). Check the front forks for a smooth travel. Check how far the spring compress when you sit on it (new stiffer/softer springs are expensive to replace). Hmm... I know I missed something...?