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View Full Version : How do I change my oil and filter?



ed apriliaforum com
07-10-2002, 01:20 PM
read this website for some good details and pictures. The website is for a Falco, but the procedure is the exact same for all the other 1000cc Aprilias. Remember, there are two drain plugs, and the oil level always needs to be checked hot after a ride.

www.geocities.com/sl_mille/oil.html (http://www.geocities.com/sl_mille/oil.html)

parkec
04-21-2003, 06:31 AM
Anybody Try

Mobil's V-Twin oil........ Mobil 1 V-Twin 20-50?

Any clutch slippage?

Smoke Eater 41
04-21-2003, 07:34 AM
I run semi-synthetic but some people use full synthetic. I like Silkolene. Pretty red color and it smells good.

ApexMolester
05-13-2003, 09:47 PM
I run Mobil's V-Twin oil........ Mobil 1 V-Twin 20-50 has been in my 00.5 rsv-r from day 1 after my 600 mile oil change, and my tuono was just changed today wit no issues at all!

tommymac
05-31-2003, 03:47 PM
The info given was very helpful, only problem was on the futura there is a metal plate with some electronic components covering part of the oil filter housing which made it more difficult, but not impossible to access. I also thing the same 400 pound gorilla tightened my second drain plug too.

All in all it is very labor intensive but very feasible. ( now to put the plastics back on:rolleyes:

Tom

07rsvR
02-12-2009, 03:52 PM
Anyone know what size allen wrench fits that second drain plug? I've already almost stripped my shi*

07rsvR
02-12-2009, 04:30 PM
Nevermind, I think I've got it, 6mm?

danman
04-14-2009, 09:56 AM
Anybody Try

Mobil's V-Twin oil........ Mobil 1 V-Twin 20-50?

Any clutch slippage?

I have been using fully synthetic oil in my 01 RSV since the first oil change. It has had everything from Royal Purple to Mobil 1 in it without issue, I have settled with using Shell Rotella T in it for three reasons a) it's a damn good oil with test ratings that stand behind it b) $13 buys a gallon of it at most auto parts places and c) you can buy it anywhere...truck stops, Walmart and any auto parts store in the middle of nowheresville. This bike has been raced for the last 12,000 miles and run hard, I have yet to have an oil related engine failure and having recently torn the motor down for some improvements the only issues with it were poor tolerances from the factory...which were corrected to bring them into spec. Yes 14,000 miles and the engine was still too tight and it was caused by poor assembly measurements by Rotax. As far as the clutch, the OEM unit was crap and the moment you start to lean on it at all it fails, the only solution is to run the Barnett unit if you want any life out of it and even at that any clutch is going to have a given life span that will be shorter or longer depending on what type of service it is doing. My Barnett made 12,000 miles of race life before it finally failed and trust me, I am not complaining about it.

budturbo
07-31-2010, 10:29 AM
Linky no worky.

Sequentialshift
08-01-2010, 01:11 PM
http://home.comcast.net/~sl_mille/

New link