PDA

View Full Version : Turn it UP?



TheGeek
01-26-2010, 03:51 PM
So, how the heck do I turn up my controls? I don't like how low they are. I'm talking about the left and right side housing the engine start, high beams, turn signals, etc.

pdxmille
01-26-2010, 03:58 PM
they probably have little plastic nubs that are set in little holes in the stock handlebars...you can remove the controls and grind off the nubs to give complete adjustability

rocketman2440
01-26-2010, 04:11 PM
you can remove the controls and grind off the nubs to give complete adjustability

:plus:

velowood
01-26-2010, 04:19 PM
As I recall, it's a brass pin that you can just pull out of the base

hank
01-26-2010, 04:29 PM
The little buggers are there - I just can't see them in the schematic:
http://www.af1racing.com/store/prodimages/st2/table_34-80a.jpg
http://www.af1racing.com/store/prodimages/st2/table_34_80a_c.jpg

Which BTW Storm are all available if you click on the top tool bar under 'Shop Online'...:happy:

kzmille
01-26-2010, 04:51 PM
It's not a separate part so you won't see it there. I needed to remove the pin on my left side switch so I could get my levers lower. It achieve the desired result but the switch housing does not stay in place now and I have to adjust it frequently. I never seem to remember to tighten it up when I get back home.

pdxmille
01-26-2010, 05:07 PM
It's not a separate part so you won't see it there. I needed to remove the pin on my left side switch so I could get my levers lower. It achieve the desired result but the switch housing does not stay in place now and I have to adjust it frequently. I never seem to remember to tighten it up when I get back home.

old age creeps up on us all, kz....:cheers:

rocketman2440
01-26-2010, 05:28 PM
but the switch housing does not stay in place now and I have to adjust it frequently.

Another suggestion would be to take the bars off, and just drill a new locating pin hole in the bar with a drill press. Or you could leave the bars on and use a hand drill, but id worry about slipping and scratching the tank.

TheGeek
01-26-2010, 06:14 PM
This sounds harder than its worth. One thing I liked about most japs, I could adjust levers and controls.

Oh well.

pdxmille
01-26-2010, 06:20 PM
dude, it would take 15 minutes max...pull the left or right control switch off and it'll be self explanatory...

kzmille
01-26-2010, 06:56 PM
This sounds harder than its worth. One thing I liked about most japs, I could adjust levers and controls.

Oh well.

It is really quite easy. Remove the 2 screws holding the switch housing together and peel the halves apart. Grab the pin with some pliers and pull it out. Reassemble

TheGeek
01-26-2010, 07:05 PM
Ok ok LOL.

I'm just lazy tonight :D

naimchase
01-26-2010, 07:47 PM
Do not twist the pin.
It has grooves along its length inside the hole.
Rock it and pull straight out.

TRexRacing
01-26-2010, 08:17 PM
After you remove the pin but before reinstalling the housing toss a small wrap of duct or electrical tape under it.Helps keep it still.

PennyPasta
01-26-2010, 09:39 PM
After you remove the pin but before reinstalling the housing toss a small wrap of duct or electrical tape under it.Helps keep it still.
:plus: I've done this and it works, to an extent.

Duct tape is a good fix but not a perfect fix. Had a friend doing that on his race bike and the throttle housing rotated on a 100+ degree day. The heat made the adhesive gooey and the tape slipped. It blocked his brake lever and he crashed. That guy is a member of this forum, BTW.

Here's what you do. First, find a screw that fits into the hole in the bar Next, use a Dremel tool to oblong the stock hole a bit at a time. Keep reassembling the switch to test your progress until you find the exact spot you want. Wrap the screw you found earlier in Teflon tape, stick it in the hole where you want it and fill in the excess with JB Weld. After it hardens, remove the screw. The tape will have kept the JB Weld from sticking to it. Depending on how careful you were with the JB Weld, you now have a properly sized hole with no slop right where you want it and can clean up the excess with a file.

The other answer is racing clip-ons. The bars can be rotated, so you can put the hole right where you want it. Heck, you'll have had to drill that hole in the racing clip-on tube in the first place.

Many times, the locating pin of a Jap housing is plastic. They break in crashes. I usually repair this problem by replacing the busted off pin with an appropriately sized sheet metal screw.

Regardless, it's worth the time to do it right. My racer friend busted his collarbone in that crash. He said it was the most scared he'd ever been when he pulled that brake lever and it didn't move...

Sorry for being long-winded. I'm big on safe modding.

hank
01-27-2010, 10:07 AM
This sounds harder than its worth. One thing I liked about most japs, I could adjust levers and controls.


My new CBR1000RR also has the same tab for the left hand controls...