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View Full Version : wtb Fork Spacers



Mooseknuckles
07-27-2009, 07:54 PM
Hey all,

I'm planning to try the 10mm spacer and fork oil change recommended here. Where can I get a pair?

Moose

spencer
07-27-2009, 09:01 PM
1 1/4 inch pvc pipe is perfect and very cheap...just remember to sand the cut good to keep the little particals out of your forks.

spencer
07-27-2009, 09:02 PM
I must say its a very easy job once you get in there.....

Mooseknuckles
07-27-2009, 09:03 PM
seriously....? that just sounds too easy! :)

cr500af
07-27-2009, 10:54 PM
What are you guys talking about?

Mooseknuckles
07-27-2009, 11:04 PM
cr500af,

we're talking about adding preload to the front fork springs with a spacer inside the fork. Since these forks don't have a preload adjustment you have to take the fork apart and add a spacer. Basicaly I'm too fat for the stock springs, and, as a result have too much sag in the front end of my bike. Adding the spacer to the top of spring will decrease the amount of sag.

Changing the fork oil weight and/or volume (usally measured by air gap) will make the front end softer or stiffer, but, only to a degree.

I could buy stiffer springs, but, I'd rather see what I can do with the less expensive option first, PVC pipe is cheap as chips, maybe even free if you know a plumber with some small scraps laying around.

Spencer, I have 2 questions for you

Will I need a spring compresser to do this correctly? I learned that that hard way on a set of Honda forks....

Do I put my new spacer above or below the washer that is ontop of the spring? I'm guessing above (between the top spring washer and fork cap)

Moose

spencer
07-28-2009, 04:38 PM
No spring compressor needed, and I put the spacer then washer then spring...you'll think you need 3 hands for the spring and two wrenches but you'll be fine using the two you have. If you have thin wrenches it would make it alot easier.
Like you Im heavier than its set up for...wishing now I would have done 15mm spacers, may try that next to see what the differance is. Make sure you have 2 liters if fluid as it takes just over one for 100mm gap (or was it 120?!?)

Mooseknuckles
07-28-2009, 05:05 PM
Sorry Spencer.... Maybe I just dont read good.... Spacer then washer then spring.... Can you put an arrow on this diagram for me please?

http://www.af1racing.com/store/Scripts/prodList.asp?idCategory=318

Just want to make sure I have the right idea before I dig in to my forks.

Thanks again
Moose

MBevans
07-28-2009, 06:58 PM
1 1/4 inch pvc pipe is perfect and very cheap...just remember to sand the cut good to keep the little particals out of your forks.

I aggree, PVC is a great spacer material. I've been using it for years for many different bikes

Mooseknuckles
07-28-2009, 07:57 PM
That is a diagram of the RXV forks....

I was thinking it would go on top of 6 because that spacer holds the spring in the center of the fork leg.... Hmm....

Also I think Spencer was suggesting that it would take more than 1 liter to do both legs, not each. That seems reasonable to me, the forks are pretty large.... I wonder what the owners manual says.... Hmm.... It's got the be more than 375ml per leg.... unless you didn't totally drain all the old oil from the dampening rod.

it says 125mm air gap compressed without spring.... helpfull. Guess the old calibrated coat hanger is comming out of the toolbox. The VDB Shiver forks take approx 610ml according to the manual. Im currently looking of the ZF Sachs manual for the stock SXV fork.... proving not easy to find

spencer
07-28-2009, 09:00 PM
It goes between 10 and 6, yes you will need just over 1 liter of fluid for both legs...I would also suggest buying Motion Pros fork tool...took all the guess work out of it. Once apart it will make sense to you....now go to the garage and take em apart, we will wait here should you need assistance....lol

http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0121

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn121/tensor750/sxvforks1.jpg

spencer
07-28-2009, 09:25 PM
Sorry, for some reason the link to the fork oil tool goes to the whole fork tool page...find the fork oil level tool...looks like a syringe with a tube attached. (really what it is:) ) 30 bucks US $ Some MX shops keep at least one in stock, check your dealer before you order. Glad I can help....TBH I need to check the pvc diameter to make sure its 1 1/4", Im having doubts after typing that. will check and let you know tomorrow...gotta go to bed...4:30 comes around quick.

proslider
07-28-2009, 09:34 PM
But won't adding the spacer raise the front end and diminish steering quickness.

Mooseknuckles
07-28-2009, 11:08 PM
Spencer,

No worries, I'm not doing it in the next couple days. I think this have been a very valuable thread so far! I understand what tool your talking about, and, I think I'll stick with my highly calibrated bent coat hanger, for now. What wrench do I need to get the cap off the fork?

Pro,

Your correct that it will raise the front of the bike, but, the condition were trying to solve is the front end being lower than optimal. The result will be a better handling bike.

spencer
07-29-2009, 07:12 AM
Pro, we're preloading the spring to keep it from sagging so much...does not change the actual fork length, just the amount the forks compress when rider is on machine.

Moose, its either 48 or 50 mm from what I remember...I went to Lowes and bought a plumbing trap wrench which is adjustable then lined it with painters tape to keep it from scratching the fork top...I think the tool was 10 bucks. I can snap a pic for you later if you want.....
(remember to crack them loose before you remove them:) )

red_leader
07-29-2009, 11:41 AM
(remember to crack them loose before you remove them )

Uh, make sure the TOP triple clamp pinch bolts are loose though.
Sometimes they squeeze the fork tube and make getting the cap off much harder.

spencer
07-29-2009, 01:50 PM
Good point Red....I removed mine the first time and forgot to loosen them...took Cal550's advice and pinched the top nut in a vise and turned the tube with my hands...worked real well.

john boy
07-29-2009, 04:14 PM
if it was me i would take damper rod out take apart & put the 10mm spacer in there that way you preload the spring by 10mm & also shorten the lengh of the fork 10mm as per the vdb upgrade kit then 100mm air gap with 10w fork oil! this will help bike tip in allot better

wayne63
08-04-2009, 01:23 AM
hey all,
i have an 08 sxv and im installing stiffer springs in the front forks.
ive got the cap unthreaded and above the fork tube still attached to the damper rod.
ive loosened the cap from the dampening rod
it losened about two or three threads then it got tight again im talkin real tight
should i continue to loosen them or is there something else that i didnt do
i dont want to break anything.....................thanx wayne

dazmotronic
02-27-2010, 04:16 AM
hi, mine was real tight too, it has been loctit at factory, should be ok to give it a fair bit of heave ho!

dazmotronic
03-26-2010, 04:50 AM
if it was me i would take damper rod out take apart & put the 10mm spacer in there that way you preload the spring by 10mm & also shorten the lengh of the fork 10mm as per the vdb upgrade kit then 100mm air gap with 10w fork oil! this will help bike tip in allot better

Hi, so a 10mm spacer is a good ammount to take sag out of the set up? cheers

Alice Racing
03-26-2010, 05:32 AM
120mm air gap, 5 wt oil.

spencer
03-26-2010, 08:57 PM
120mm air gap, 5 wt oil.

Can you describe the benefits/differance that makes in comparison to 100mm and 10wt oil? For my ability that really helped the front end.

RXV_Poor
03-26-2010, 11:25 PM
I just ground down some KTM spacers.

dazmotronic
03-27-2010, 02:57 AM
Can you describe the benefits/differance that makes in comparison to 100mm and 10wt oil? For my ability that really helped the front end.

That is what I run; 100mm and 10wt, i like this set up but was just wondering how much better it is with 10mm spacers as well.

spencer
03-27-2010, 06:39 AM
Daz; I have the 10mm spacers in currently. Just wondering how the lighter fluid and more air makes it feel... If you havent done these yet I would suggest doing it right away. cost pennies

Racerx43
03-27-2010, 06:49 AM
Any suspension kings in the US that performs the "once over" including these setup recommendations.?

spencer
03-27-2010, 10:12 AM
Your gonna have to call around on that one... seems like most places have never messed with these bikes or try to avoid them like the plague

dazmotronic
03-28-2010, 03:02 AM
Daz; I have the 10mm spacers in currently. Just wondering how the lighter fluid and more air makes it feel... If you havent done these yet I would suggest doing it right away. cost pennies

Cheers spencer; I'll stick with the 10wt and put some spacers in.
I;m about 95kg in full gear so I like go on the firmer side all round, really want to get a 6.4 racetech for the rear soon.
We have a really superb Ohlins Technician here in NZ he gets around all the major and some smaller race meetings throughout the country, he'll set anything up really well. Must be pleanty of good bike suspender tech's around the world.

spencer
03-28-2010, 09:13 AM
6.4 for your weight seems excessive...no? I just got a 6.0 for mine, im a few KG's heavier than you...perhaps I shouldve went with a 6.4? anythings gotta be better than stock spring...

dazmotronic
03-29-2010, 02:56 AM
6.4 for your weight seems excessive...no? I just got a 6.0 for mine, im a few KG's heavier than you...perhaps I shouldve went with a 6.4? anythings gotta be better than stock spring...

How do you find the 6.0 spring? I have not got the spring yet so any feedback or info on rider weight to spring stiffness is most welcome.
Cheers

spencer
03-29-2010, 08:52 PM
I dont know yet, its laying on my workbench awaiting installation. After its installed I will comment.

JDS550
09-20-2010, 10:47 PM
Marked. Good info.