Chain Replacement

[tha-mask]

My Mana has almost done 18,000 miles, and needs its chain replaced. I let it run far too long loose and now its needs replacing, though at its 18,000 service it would have been replaced anyway.

I'm considering replacing it myself and wondered if I needed any special tools to do this. Also do both the front and rear sprockets get replaced at the same time ? I wondered if the front sprocket would need holding somehow as the bike wont have the ability to be put into gear and keep it from turning.

I have never replaced a chain before, as I have only ever owned scoots so any advice welcome, otherwise it will have to go into the shop, but would really love to do it myself and save some money. Also can you buy a kit or do you have to order all the individual parts.

[pete roper]

Sprockets will probably be Aprilia only parts but I'm not sure? There may be AM ones but having dealt with shaft drive bikes for 30 years I'm not au-fait with what is available WRT sprockets.

Chain is easy and can be bought at any bike shop a lot cheaper than buying from Aprilia per-se. Choose a good quality o or x ring chain. Cheap chains aren't worth a cracker.

You may have to remove the swingarm to replace the chain (I haven't really looked.) if you use an endless chain. Otherwise you can split it and then use a joining link and o-x rings. Obviously count the links of the original so you know how long you need the new one to be.

Buy a chain breaker and, if you are going with a split chain, a link installer.

Pete

[tha-mask]

OK, havent a clue but are the x-chains the best to get in terms of requiring less lubrication ?? Was thinking about a scotoiler also, but happy to keep down the cost.

[pete roper]

I have no idea of the real relative merits of X over O ring chains, it could jut be a gimick. What is important is that 'Sealed' chains, those that use rings, will last much longer in orders of magnitude over an old fashioned 'Un-sealed' chain.

One has to realize that chains don't 'Stretch'. This is a common fallacy. They get longer but this is due to wear taking place in the pins and rollers of the chain, not because anything is reaching the limits of its elasticity!

With an un-sealed chain lubrication is applied from the *outside* and if you're lucky some of it will find it's way into the tiny spaces betwixt the pins and rollers. Unfortunately it will carry with it microscopic contaminants and *grit* which will rapidly turn the 'Lubricant' into a very effective grinding paste! The more wear there is the greater the amount of 'Lubricant' that gets in and therefore the quicker the chain will wear out.

The huge advantage of a 'Sealed' chain over an un-sealed one is not so much that the rings will keep the lubricant in between the pins and rollers but that it will keep the shit out!!!!

Some of the chain lubes available are actually toxic to the materials that the rings used to be made out of, this may have changed, I don't know. What I do know is that working on the principle that you want to keep the faces between the rings and the plates lubricated but not 'Wet' an occasional spray of white lithium grease, (Oddly enough the same stuff you'll see on the chains of *new* bikes or on new 'Quality' chains!) will keep these lubed, won't fling off like most chain lubes and is also CHEAPER than most of the 'Dedicated' chain lubes. Works for me! I've got over 10,000Km on my Mana now and have adjusted the chain precisely twice! I reckon I'll 30,000 out of it at this rate. Real cheap motoring!!!!

Chains and sprockets should always be replaced as a set. You may well think that the sprockets look OK but in reality a used sprocket will usually halve the life of a new chain. Do it when neccessary and do it RIGHT and it works out cheaper in the long run!

For up to date info ask one of the sportsbike Guys, as I said, for the last nearly thirty years my bikes have been almost exclusively shafties!!!!

Pete

[tha-mask]

As the current 18000 mile service is the last to be done whilst its under warranty took the decision to have it done at the dealer. Will be quite expensive as its chain, valves etc etc, their also going to check out a few other niggles I have with it whilst I'm on holiday in the US in August. That way it doesnt sit outside my house for 3 weeks and I dont have to pay a fortune on train fares communiting whilst they wait for parts to arrive :-)

[williamr]

On the sprocket replacement issue, I usually get the same life from the second chain as from the first, and about 20 - 25% less life from the third chain on a sprocket set.

The secret is keeping the chain well maintained and adjusted, and replacing it when it reaches the end of its service life rather than when it's well past it. As long as you've done this, and are experienced enough to be able to spot any signs of hooking, you may not need to change the sprockets. If you're unsure, or if you know the chain has been run out of adjustment, it's probably better to replace chain and sprockets as a set.

It's usually easier to break the chain and rivet a joining link in place than to remove a swinging arm. On some bikes the way the chain's threaded through the swinging arm mean that no choice about breakingthe chain. Another option, which should be OK on the Mana, although I personally feel the bike's a bit powerful for this, is to use a spring link.

A SottOiler pays for itself, but you still have to clean the chain and keep an eye on the adjustment.

Rob

[tha-mask]

Rob.

Yes I'm considering a Scottoiler, have emailed them as they dont have the Mana listed on their site for approved bikes and space is quite tight on the frame. They also have their new e-system which is pretty pricey, at £180-£200, but all electonic, i'm a sucker for gizmos !. They said they were looking into the Mana and would let me know.

Mark

[tha-mask]

Just got this from the Scottoiler people, how helpfull.....They sent with it a load of pictures and pdf files. The pictures showing the Mana and its areas where things get fiited, so they actually bothered over the weekend to check it out on an actual machine. Very impressed.

"We've some more information on the Mana now. You will have two options - it's possible to fit either our vSystem (our basic vacuum operated
system) or our eSystem (our new electronic oiler.)

If you chose to fit the vSystem you will also require our adapter part number SA-0095 Universal Spigot Assembly which is available free from ourselves.

The vSystem will require this spigot to be fitted to the inlet tract (rubber boot) on the Mana - it sounds fairly involved to remove this to allow you to drill a small hole in it and fit the universal spigot, but if you allow time for the job it should be reasonably straightforward.
The RMV (reservoir) should fit either under the seat or on an external frame member. The dispenser will fit on the paddock stand lug. I've attached our general installation guide to let you see what's involved.

The eSystem will simply wire directly onto the +ve and -ve terminals on the battery, REP (reservoir) again underseat or onto frame member, dispenser onto paddock stand lug. Again I've attached our general installation guide.

Hope this helps - if you decide to go for the vSystem do get in touch and we'll send you the SA-0095 universal spigot assembly, and if you've any further comments or queries please don't hesitate in contacting us."
Kind regards
Rachel

[williamr]

Good to see a fast response from them. The basic kit works pretty well. If there's an inlet air pressure sensor on the FI system this can be tapped with a simple T connector for vacum, or one of the TB take off points for the TB synch guages can be used.

You need to play about with the setting a bit to get the best feed rate. Too much can dump enough oil for it to be flung on to the tyre. It still works even if the resevoir is lying nearly flat, so mounting under the sear is fine.

Rob