Back Brake Problems?

[DeTuono]

OK, there's potentially an issue with the rear brake of the RSV/Tuono models. Some say it is because of the positioning of the caliper. Let's see if there is any kind of trend. If so, Ed and Micah might want to put some of this into the FAQ.

My back brake has just gone awol and I'm interested in knowing why... :rolleyes:

[King Atlas]

My back brake was, for all intensive purposes, useless right off the showroom floor. 300 miles into it, I've been intentionally using the back brake as much as possible. It feels almost normal now.

[parkec]

With the way a v twin slows when you roll off the throttle - what is the real need for a back brake?

[RVZoo]

Sort of the same as King Atlas. Started using it intentionally about 150 miles ago (never used before). At the beginning, no stopping power at all. Now it slows down nicely. I much prefer a rear brake like that. I may start actually using normally now.

[K DOCDDS]

Mine has faded into non-existence. I would not use the rear much anyway, but, WTF? I would like the option. This is a common thing I have been hearing about for some time. No real good solution to my knowledge.

Kurt

[r100gs]

My back brake needed a good bleeding when first got my bike. Ever since, it has worked to well! I've adjusted the foot peddle lower, as not to apply to much pressure. It has never had good feedback. It locks way too easily for my liking. I sometimes get a little sideways when I'm not intending to.

[HEAKLE]

DeTuono,

Check out this topic.

Henry

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[DeTuono]

That one should go in the FAQ!

Still seems a little over the top to buy a whole new caliper and pump...8o

Nick

[Smoke Eater 41]

I wasn't aware that my Mille had a back brake.

[FastFrank25]

Same here, never really used it much. Mine works fine that I know of but I probably haven't touched it 3 times since I have had the bike. The few times I did it was so sensitive it locked the rear wheel. Guess that is what brembo's and braided lines will do. Frank:cool:

[curvecrazy1]

I ordered some new sintered pads from this site to try out. Ed said they will offer an improvement over stock. I will let you guys know when I have time to try em.
I am thinking along the lines of a thorough rebleed of the system with the caliper situated upward. Then maybe bead blasting the rear rotor. Then the new pads.
I suspect the problem is due to a lower than normal leverage ratio on the RSV compared to other bikes. Its kinda strange how they did the lever setup on the Milles.

[shedman]

they are cr*ap from the favtory. Do a full bleed with new fluid. Never use fluid that has been standing, its hygroscopic and can take on as much as 10% water in a year. When the bleeding has been done, pump the brake a few times untill its hard. you will now probably need to back off the plunger in the rear brake master as the factory tent to set them too high. Hey presto, one good rear brake. If you have never worked on brakes before, get someone who has to show you. Its youre life on the line

Richard

[HEAKLE]

Nick,

I didn't really mean to buy a new brake setup. The pieces were warranty. I really believe the problem was the burrs on the crush gasket sealing surface. Take a look at the surfaces and smooth them out. My brakes are strong and are not fading, even with stack pads.

Even if you are only getting 10% more braking power using the rear brake with the front, that stops you a few feet before impact rather than a few feet after. Also the rear brake aids in weight transfer and settles the suspension during a braking turn (my view only)

Ride safe,

Henry

[Drt Boy]

Rear brake was weak right from the get go, then faded to nothing. It was the master cyl., and it was replaced, under warranty, and now works fine. I really don't use the rear brake very much on the road, but in parking lot type situations the front brake can lead to a fall. I like a weak rear brake, one that doesn't easily lock up, but keeps the rear "settled" in a panic stop.

DB

[SuperBike Mike]

A set of Ferodo's and all is well!

Michael :cool:

[DeTuono]

Update. I got the rear brake bled by my local dealer - yeah coulda done it myself, but I'm more time poor than cash poor...

Nice'n'firm now, we'll see how it lasts. <img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/images/emoticons/grin.gif ALT=" >D">

Also, for Henry's interest the mechanic said a poor seal with the crush washer would let fluid out, not air in. His theory was Italian assembly control... :rolleyes:

[HEAKLE]

De Tuono,

The mechanic is correct. That's if you see the leak. It can be very small and just spray the fluid out in a very small amount. The stream would mist if the leak was small and it would be hard to see. The pressure behind a hard brake is very high. Now the problem begins when the hot brake system cools. Now the high pressure decreases and that allows a small amount of air to flow inwards. Being how air is compressable in does"t take much to make a system feel spongy. I didn't believe the "suck" idea until I had this happen on a race bike and didn't find the misting leak until I baby powdered the connections. Bad crimp on a steelbraided line.

I would at least look at the washer seal surfaces if you get a weak brake again.


Henry

[DeTuono]

Hey Henry, what else you got in that toolbox? :eek:

Nick :rollin:

[micah apriliaforum com]

27,000 miles and 3 sets of pads without a single problem. You do have to remove the caliper to bleed it though.....air goes to the top and the bleeder must be where the air is....

[MyApriliaRSV]

i ha had Milles and never a problem with either's rear brake. don't really use it much, but they worked fine when needed

[bubbas929]

i called my local priller mechanic today and asked about the first service and my breaks - good news first service 185 USD.

He told me he had seen the problem with the brakes before and told me in that case it was the pads. they were not gripping the rotor well and after a while it comes in. He suggested trailing the rear when using the front and try to get them heated and meshed up.

[Mille2play]

I have 13800 miles on the Mille and had to rebeed the rear brake at about 8000 miles. That is fine anyway because I wanted to put new brake fluid in it anyway. It is not a bad idea to rebleed the front brakes with new brake fluid. It really makes a nice difference and is worth the time.